T16 restoration starts in earnest

horsa · #1 30-07-10, 00:25

Hey Andrew,

Welding new steel over the rot was something we thought about at first since it is obviously much easier to do. It would also be stronger with the double skin, but only at first. Mud and water would get trapped between them and it'd be like termites for steel. You wouldn't know there was a new rot problem until the newer upper layer began to come apart.

Certainly better to go ahead and cut the cancer out while you are tearing everything else down. That way it will outlast you and someone else can enjoy it while you're pushing up daisies for them to drive on

On that small tranny output gear, I know that Rod Shaver had them NOS a couple of years ago. Sure he still has some available. If he still isn't responding to messages, it could be he is not currently on-line. The MVPA national convention in the USA was the week before the W&P show in the UK and he likely attended both events and may not be home.

If you ever make contact with him, ask him if he still has Windsor carbs. They have a different part number from the T-16 type but we determined the only difference is the choke mechanism. T-16 is set up for an electric pattern and the Windsor used a manual style. Internal parts and most of the cases are the same so its a viable source for NOS spare parts if needed.

andrew honychurch · #2 30-07-10, 07:34

Hi David, thanks for the heads up on the transmission drive. For the avoidance of doubt, according to my T16 Parts list, the part is interchangeable with Canadian UC. I thought they looked the same. On the carbs, I may have a source of a new one here in the Uk, and also I think I have a source of the autochoke mechanism. I have attached a picture of the choke I have been offered. Made by Sisson Choke. Pierce Gov USA?

horsa · #3 30-07-10, 15:15

The choke looks like the one I have mounted to the engines intake manifold. They can be hard to find but weren't a T-16 specific item.

andrew honychurch · #4 30-07-10, 17:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by horsa

The choke looks like the one I have mounted to the engines intake manifold. They can be hard to find but weren't a T-16 specific item.

Having read the manual last night, I just worked out why we never managed to get the choke to work properly. i assumed that it was a thermostatically controlled unit when it appears that it is also controlled by electrical current. Mine has never been wired to any power supply, so I guess it was never likely to work! The guy who has these chokes has a few, not sure how many but will report back. Andrew

tankbarrell · #5 30-07-10, 21:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrew honychurch

Having read the manual last night, I just worked out why we never managed to get the choke to work properly. i assumed that it was a thermostatically controlled unit when it appears that it is also controlled by electrical current. Mine has never been wired to any power supply, so I guess it was never likely to work! The guy who has these chokes has a few, not sure how many but will report back. Andrew

The electrical function is activated by the starter circuit so you get full choke whilst cranking. Upon releasing the starter button it reverts to partial choke, this gradually goes to no choke as the bi-metal spring warms up.

andrew honychurch · #6 30-07-10, 21:50

thanks Adrian, i guessed it was something like this. I had never seen the small terminal on the choke control and the previous owner had not wired it up . Anyway, will start from scratch when its all back together once more.

Had a big day today, and stripped most of the rest of the internal rear hull compartment. this included both oil coolers and pipes to rear, and the main gearshift control bar. that took some getting out . Most of the bolts are either rusted away, so a spanner/socket will not fit or rusted solid. anyway, a combination of a cracking set of Mole Grips and the old blowtorch has sorted most of the fitments. Am thinking of taking the tracks off tomorrow and the back axle out. If its quite as hot here as it has been today, it will be hard work. Stuck down inside a Carrier with legs bent and feeling my age, it has been hard work stripping the hull. Anyway, its well on its way now.

David, did you replace all the oil cooler lines with copper? If so why? I am hoping I can keep mine, although I am going to have to recore the oil coolers , they look dreadful Good news is the chap who will do that is only about 3 miles from where I live.

andrew honychurch · #7 31-07-10, 22:21

boths tracks cracked today and the back axle out. I take back what I said about the worst job being the drivers compartment. The axle removal was horrible. Nothing particularly hard, just a long and ardous job made less appealing by the need to bend double under the rear decking. Tracks came off quite easily but I am definitely not going to be able to put it back in without a track tensioner and link attachment too. Anyway, not too much more to go before it is ready to go off to the sandblaster and fabricator to weld all the little bits back in.

Still trying to understand what the hull drains plugs look like. Does anyone have a photo or schematic of them off the vehicle. All I have is holes in the floor where they fit.