JEEP willy's help

[Speedy]

thanks guys

should have a visitor that restored a mb coming over to give me advice and see what I have.

I think the engines head needs to come off, I dont want to get to ahead of myself as I am new to vehicles. if I take the head off, what should I do if I take the head off?
still soak the cylinders? then try breaking them free?

or do you think I should continue soaking the cylinders with the head on by pouring diesel into the spark plug holes and wait? and avoid taking the head off all together?

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Speedy

thanks guys

should have a visitor that restored a mb coming over to give me advice and see what I have.

I think the engines head needs to come off, I dont want to get to ahead of myself as I am new to vehicles. if I take the head off, what should I do if I take the head off?
still soak the cylinders? then try breaking them free?

or do you think I should continue soaking the cylinders with the head on by pouring diesel into the spark plug holes and wait? and avoid taking the head off all together?

If the pistons are frozen then the chances are good that the valve train is too. You'd best remove the head, inspect it and the valves for damage/pitting, then soak the cylinders until you can hand-crank the engine. Don't overdo the force in hand cranking as you'll risk damaging stuck valves as well. Once everything is moving, you can have a good look at the cylinder walls and decide at that point whether it might be better pulling the engine and sending it out for a rebuild... which may well be what's needed; if there's damage in the upper end, it's most likely the crank needs inspecting/grinding/new bearings as well. Better to do it now while you're in rebuild-mode!

Geoff

[Speedy]

Originally Posted by Geoff Winnington-Ball

If the pistons are frozen then the chances are good that the valve train is too. You'd best remove the head, inspect it and the valves for damage/pitting, then soak the cylinders until you can hand-crank the engine. Don't overdo the force in hand cranking as you'll risk damaging stuck valves as well. Once everything is moving, you can have a good look at the cylinder walls and decide at that point whether it might be better pulling the engine and sending it out for a rebuild... which may well be what's needed; if there's damage in the upper end, it's most likely the crank needs inspecting/grinding/new bearings as well. Better to do it now while you're in rebuild-mode!

Geoff

hi Geoff.

that is what I was worried about, if the pistons are stuck, the valves may be also, and if I start the engine it may backfire allot and possibly create more damage.

I think I can do all the labour of tearing down assembling the engine, and leave the machining to the engine guys.

I guess it would be good to get hardened valve seats in the engine at that point.

I am sure allot of guys here have redone their engines, does anyone have a idea of what it can cost me?

and lastly, anyone have an idea of how I should plan out my attack to re doing this vehicle?
would the engine be last? drivetrain first? then body?

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Speedy

hi Geoff.

that is what I was worried about, if the pistons are stuck, the valves may be also, and if I start the engine it may backfire allot and possibly create more damage.

I think I can do all the labour of tearing down assembling the engine, and leave the machining to the engine guys.

I guess it would be good to get hardened valve seats in the engine at that point.

I am sure allot of guys here have redone their engines, does anyone have a idea of what it can cost me?

and lastly, anyone have an idea of how I should plan out my attack to re doing this vehicle?
would the engine be last? drivetrain first? then body?

If you're going to strip the engine yourself, do yourself a favour... photograph everything before you take it off, label it and stow it separately (small parts grouped in labeled plastic bags eg). That way you know how it goes together again and won't be sitting there looking at a freshly-assembled engine and wondering "where did this part sitting beside me go...?".

Ref the rest: if you want to do it right, strip it down to the bare frame, store the body bits (small parts labeled and stowed as per the above instruction) then start there. Blast, prime and paint the frame and go from there. Next to go on would be the axles - you may not have to strip them, but you'll want to change the oil for sure - then do the seals and brakes and mount wheels and tyres... and so on, and so on... while you're doing this you can have the engine done, then mount it before your body goes back on.

BTW, you may not have to pull the transmission/transfer cases apart, but I highly recommend you pull the tops off to check for moisture damage or even water inside - don't knock it, I've seen many like that.

Ref the body... you can restore it as an original CJ2A, or you can fake up an MB if you really wanted to... it's up to you. You'd need at the very least a grill, a windshield assembly and to remove the tailgate and replace with a welded-in flat panel reinforced to take a spare tyre carrier and jerry can holder.

The chances are, though, you could probably make a lot of money on a fully restored CJ2A from the jeep aficionados then turn around and buy a real MB. As I said, it's up to you. Regardless, jeep people here on MLU will help you!

Lastly, I recommend you look up the several HAMMOND BARN threads we have in the Restoration Forum to learn the proper way of rebuilding an old vehicle... these gentlemen are Masters!

Geoff

[Speedy]

hi Geoff
thank you! that helps and will work with what you said
I will keep it cj2a as it still has the military look.

the head is coming off, to see inside.
cracked the nuts free. cant wait to take it off!

[Speedy]

so last exam was today. pulled the head, since this is the first time working around full size engines I am not sure the condition.
I think the rings are stuck to the head, it seems like its all carbon build up. light surface rust on 2 of the cyls, the other 2 seem like they might be worse, might be carbon will need to look at it closer.

getting my car buddies over tomorrow, then I will have a better idea of what to do.
a friend offered me a free chevy 350 engine, but that seems like a big project.

o yeh, the liquid in the cylinder is atf and wd40. been in the cylinders for atleast 2 weeks so those cyls are stuck or the carbon is stopping it from going thru.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Mike.
What I am seeing is a badly carboned up engine..No idea what the bottom end is like but the valves are not all burned up and split..a good sign..and once you pull the engine and can see what is going on down below you will have a better idea..
That happens when they spend a lot of time idling and slow..low RPM operation..
Rich on the fuel under these conditions..hence the carbon..
IF all the other tune up points ..timing..carb...valve..etc.adjustments are in spec..
Anyway press on..Keep the pix coming..
You are doing fine.
One more thing..DON'T let your "Car Buddies"..talk you into pounding those pistons down "JUst to see if..."...what ever..
Pull the engine.take off the pan..disconnect the connecting rods ..then you can use a wooden block and tap them to break them loose...but don't attempt until disconnecting the connecting rods and rotating the crank to clear the rods..mark your end caps to each connecting rod and the way they are facing before you pull them apart and throw them in a box..
What I used to do was as I was disassembling... I had a big piece of heavy cardboard and I would put slits in the card board and I would position the components on the card board exactly in the direction..number..combination..of all the components as I took them off ..that way I didn't mix up my end caps..rods..valves..pushrods ,main bearing caps etc..and I knew what went where when ever I got the rest of the short block finished...things look a lot better when you know where every thing goes and which way it came out..