Rifle Mildew

malcolm erik bogaert · #1 09-04-10, 20:37

WD-40 has always worked for me....have to agree with the statements about the lefty pinko's...we have a very strong STALINIST goverment here......regards malcolm

cletrac (RIP) · #2 09-04-10, 23:23

The best thing to get rid of mould or mildew is a bleach solution. I use that treatment on my house window ledges every few years. It won't affect the wood or metal finish. After everything's dry rub the gun down with oil.

Ian Pullen · #3 10-04-10, 00:38

Guys, as an armourer for more than 25 years I agree with the g-96, even WD-40 is useable, but I am not 100% sure about that one in extreme cold.

The issue is the woodwork. Personaly I agree with Geoff. Linseed oil, rubbed in by hand is the only way I would do it. And yes, the finish it leaves is amazing.

Only difference though is the method of cleaning the woodwork. I don't think I would sand it, however I would scrape it back with the REVERSE side of a hacksaw blade. It cleans off the grime without the sanding or razor blade effect. The majority of stampings & markings remain. Just don't get over zelous with the pressure when scraping it.

My two cents worth...

servicepub (RIP) · #4 10-04-10, 01:58

Only two ways to deal with this problem;
1. strip them down, smelt the metal and burn the wood, or
2. sell them to me at a major discount off their value.
Whichever you choose you will not have to deal with unsightly mildew issues again.

Lang · #5 16-04-10, 01:26

I think the G96 guys are on the right track. Linseed oil can be a disaster -use the gun oil (of whatever brand you choose on the woodwork). Linseed is organic and particularly in warmer climates and I presume even Canadian collections are in a warm house it will start turning to black spotted staining mould all over the weapon. Anyone putting linseed oil on house outdoor decking or outdoor wood furniture will know it finishes up a black mess in very short time.

The residual moisture in the wood will leave the white furry mould like in photo above but can be cleaned off with damp cloth then reoiled with G96.

My little used gun collection requires the damp cloth fur removal about once a year no matter how much oil is soaked into the wood. Jiff don't sand it back unless you are going to sporterise or hotrod your weapon, I too also suspect it will devalue an original piece.

lang

Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) · #6 16-04-10, 02:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lang

I think the G96 guys are on the right track. Linseed oil can be a disaster -use the gun oil (of whatever brand you choose on the woodwork). Linseed is organic and particularly in warmer climates and I presume even Canadian collections are in a warm house it will start turning to black spotted staining mould all over the weapon. Anyone putting linseed oil on house outdoor decking or outdoor wood furniture will know it finishes up a black mess in very short time.

The residual moisture in the wood will leave the white furry mould like in photo above but can be cleaned off with damp cloth then reoiled with G96.

My little used gun collection requires the damp cloth fur removal about once a year no matter how much oil is soaked into the wood. Jiff don't sand it back unless you are going to sporterise or hotrod your weapon, I too also suspect it will devalue an original piece.

lang

Well, all I can say is that I've been using hand-rubbed linseed oil since I bought my first rifle in 1969, and I've never had problems with it. If the stock is clean enough and you spend enough time rubbing multiple coats of oil into the wood, it will keep rifle stocks in the same condition as, for instance, a 19th century cricket bat which I have here.

Ref the sanding bit, we're primarily talking about the old cheapie $25 Lee Enfields you used to be able to buy just about anywhere - well-used but badly maintained, with stocks gouged and dinged and covered with layer upon layer of varnish and sometimes even paint. The combination of stripping and sanding gently worked really well.

Nothing was lost and much gained by refinishing them in the manner I spoke of earlier. Would I do this on an 18th or 19th century musket? Don't be ridiculous. Here we're talking about old, beat-up service rifles which have little intrinsic value of their own and which can be made into magnificent presentation pieces.

Lynn Eades · #7 16-04-10, 02:28

Which type of linseed oil are we talking about? There is Raw, and what ever the other one is. (cooked?) One is good for softening hard leather seals,but it causes the seal track to rust?, if I recall? Can some one wise me up.