F60L Recent pics

Ganmain Tony · #1 24-01-10, 03:51

Starting mount the driver & passenger foot well panels. Im using canvas webbing between the panels as well. Not too bad to fit. Ive been using a drill to cut holes for bolts to go through the webbing. I think It'll make a difference to the NVH (hope so anyway).

Did away with front engine oil filler. Cleaned up & painted original goose neck cab 12 one & fitted. Put correct choke/throttle base on Carbie. Suprisingly easy to change over.

Rest of the time I have been removing my fingerprints on the wire wheel.

cliff · #2 24-01-10, 06:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Rest of the time I have been removing my fingerprints on the wire wheel.

Tony is this because you don't want to leave your finger prints at the next border raid?

Mate the truck is looking great and it is easy to see where all that hard labor of yours has gone.

Ganmain Tony · #3 24-01-10, 11:03

Thanks Cliff,

Yes it is hard work - & I know all the guys on this forum have probably experienced it. By this I mean I realise I'm not Robinson Crusoe when it comes to the resto of a Blitz.

By Geez it is the most rewarding & fullfilling thing I have ever done in my life & can recommend it to anyone.

It is a test of patience, no doubt about that, but the end result.... amazing.

Incidentally Chaps, have I mounted the mirrors in right spot? Or can they go in either spot? Have a look at the photo's to see what I mean.

aj.lec · #4 24-01-10, 11:35

Doing a great job there Tony

Very nice work
I have a couple up here you can start on when you have finished yours

Ganmain Tony · #5 04-02-10, 01:18

Thanks for all the good vibes lads, much appreciated.

Need some hands on experience feedback to adjusting the clutch.

Ive got an interesting noise when the clutch pedal is fully pressed in and the Clutch disengaged, engine idling. Checked operation of thrust bearing - seems OK. Noise stops as soon as clutch pedal is released slightly, about 2cm at the top of the pedal.

Having trouble going into first. It will go in but it is grinding which makes me think the clutch is not fully disengaged. I was going to cut a bit more thread on the adjustment rod and bring the adjustment up further along the rod.

Any comments from those who have been here??

Phil Waterman · #6 04-02-10, 18:06

Hi Tony

Though my CMPs are all Chevys I played with a lot of Flat Head Fords. Know that you probably have thought of many of these but I offer the following observations.

1. If you hold your foot down on the clutch peddle for 15-30 seconds before moving the gear lever do you still get the crunch?
2. Do you get the crunch what ever gear you first try to go into?
3. Before you change the length of the threads on the clutch linkage, find your self a really good measuring point to see if the engine and transmission are moving fore and aft as you push on the clutch.
4. Are you to the point where you can drive the truck to see if there is a problem shifting between gears? If you are do you have trouble getting the truck out of first gear? This is a real indication that the clutch is not releasing all the way.
5. If you can determine that the clutch is truly not disengaging completely here are some possible causes (had some of these on my C60L) did you lubricate the throwout bearing inner slip area where it rides in and out on the transmission pilot? As the bell housing is integral to the engine and transmission and not a third separate part I doubt you have the alignment problem that Chevy can have that binds the pilot shaft bearing or bushing in the flywheel.
6. With the clutch fully depressed and the gear box in 4th gear (transfer case in neutral) how easy can you spin the short drive shaft between the transmission and transfer?

Cheers Phil

Howard · #7 04-02-10, 22:47

Clutch Problem Solved!
Clutch was over-adjusted, pushing far enough forward to pick up the clutch plate. Tony backed off the adjustment a little, and, hey presto!
Tony has also been for a drive yesterday! Pictures soon I hope...

Ganmain Tony · #8 04-02-10, 22:53

Sorted out the clutch issues. It was a simple rod adjustment but not tighter.
In fact I back it off a fair way (about 8 threads) and it is working very well.

Three things this has taught me.

Go away and have a think about it.

Back my ability as a mechanic more & have more faith in the quality of work I do.

Implement some solutions (especiallly the obvious ones) before bleating for help on MLU.

In any case - many thanks for the help Phil.

Exciting pictures to come - stay tuned.