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#1
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![]() Now the transmission is ready the engine is up next. the engine was very dirty with an oil and dirt mix that hardend out like a coating, very difficult to remove. ![]() ![]() see also the other pictures. cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#2
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wow
genius ![]() i hope you make alot pics of the engine restoration :P
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www.militaermuseumwildegg.ch we search a swiss ford canada ![]() |
#3
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![]() when the head was of the enginebody I could see the pistons and it looked good, so I put thin oil on top the pistons and let it stand for a week. after the week was past I try to turn it and it worked the engine is lose ![]() I took the head and took it apart to clean the valves and springs and check for wear. ![]()
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#4
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When you've got the head apart you might as well grind the valves and put in new valve seals.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#5
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![]() good idea david, after I took the valves and springs apart I checked the play of the valve guides and other messurements. I cleaned the valves and the head it self. there was only a small amount of carbon to clean. I grinded the valves and seats and they fit fine now. the springs I checked and messured the length and after this it was time to putt everything together again and get some paint on some parts. then the intake/exhauste manifolds where sand blasted and painted grey and heat resistend black. and the spring of the heat control thermostat was replaced for a new one. so now time for a ![]()
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#6
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![]() now the enginehead is done I could start on the crankshaft. when I drained the oilpan there was some slutch in it, so that needs cleaning. I opened the rod bearing caps and took out all of the 6 pistons and checked them for wear. as you can see the no 3 piston rod is bent a little ? ![]() there was nothing else bent or damaged luckely. after the pistons were out it was the turn of the crankshaft to come out, so when it was out I could check it to and there was a little bit of wear on the main bearings so that means up to the machineshop with the shaft for some new bearings.so I took the flighwheel of the shaft after I marked the two first so I can put it back ad the same position. I found a machineshop near my house which could turn off the crankshaft to the new size. after some mesurements it was found that the shaft was still the standard size and have to be turned off to the size 010". so the next thing for me is to find some new bearings. when I have them he can start the work on the shaft. ![]() so up on the internet. ![]() cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#7
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![]() Now the crankshaft is at the machineshop I cleaned the oilpan and the oil nozzles in the pan. I had to weld some small holls in the pan. The outside of the engine was cleaned of this thick coating of oil and dirt. untill the crankshaft is back I started on the radiator. first I had to get all the rust / dirt out then to check if it is not leaking I filled it up with water and what I sow was no leaks for now.(mybe when the pump is pumping it starts leaking) I took it out of it's bracked and start cleaning. cheers jaap
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1940 chev C15 cab11, MCC wirelessbody No1 MK3. ![]() ![]() |
#8
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Nice work again, Jaap! For a moment I was thinking you would have it done for Arnhem
![]() Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
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