C8 progress in Texas

David DeWeese · #1 31-05-09, 15:45

Thanks Phil,
Was on the search this morning and found new ones on a site called "Bowtie Bits" in Kansas for less than $100. Don't know how to post a link to their site.

Forgot to also thank you for your earlier post on the radiator source.

Regards, David

Phil Waterman · #2 01-06-09, 00:21

Hi Dave

Would be interested in the source for new Chevy parts like that. As to posting link. Try high lighting the URL address by drag and right click with mouse once highlighted hold the Ctrl key down and hit C then you should be able to paste Ctrl V the Url into the body of a post once it is visible in your post hit the space bar and the Url should be highlighted in blue when you hit preview if so then hit post.

Once you gave me the name though I found it http://www.bowtiebits.com/index.cfm Good looking web page will have to explore.

http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor..._Category_ID=4

If you order one please let us know how it works.

RHClarke · #3 01-06-09, 02:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Dave

http://www.bowtiebits.com/index.cfm Good looking web page will have to explore.
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor..._Category_ID=4 If you order one please let us know how it works.

Very interesting site! There are door hinges that "look" "HUPish". See
http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor..._Category_ID=6
I will be calling for the dimensions with fingers crossed...

David DeWeese · #4 30-06-09, 06:40

Hi,
Finally sorted out my front brakes this weekend. Someone had apparently installed a pre-war Chev front truck axle with post-'54 car brake backing plates on the C8.

Got around it by installing 1960 truck six-lug hubs and brake shoes, 1946 wheel bearings, races and seals, '55 wheel cylinders and 1990 Chev 4x4 drums,(same drums as the rear).
Sounds extreme, but it did solve the problem, and gave me the much better brakes I needed to match the ones on the late model rear axle.

Had a very depressing moment when I found that one of my two wheel adapters was damaged beyond use. The stud holes were worn completely through, and the lug nuts would literally fall through three of the holes.

Will have to weld up the holes and have the stud holes re-drilled and tapered to fit the lug nuts......

Thanks, David

Mike K · #5 30-06-09, 08:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by David DeWeese

Hi,
. Someone had apparently installed a pre-war Chev front truck axle to fit the lug nuts......

Thanks, David

Hi David

The original C8 front axle is a standard civilian 1940 Chev. truck axle .... the part numbers match in the C8 parts book and the civilian parts book ... No. 365291

Mike

David DeWeese · #6 30-06-09, 15:02

Thanks Mike for the part number,
Will check the axle for casting numbers today to see if it is the correct one for the truck.
What threw me is that I bought a set of used drums and backing plates for an early '40's Chev truck and the didn't fit the spindles I have. Spindles were way too short.
Maybe someone has replaced them. Certainly wouldn't surprise me at this point......
Read somewhere that the C8 used a three ton axle with the smaller brakes adapted to it.
Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #7 17-07-09, 03:19

It is time to start installing wheels on the C8.
Have four original 13" wheels,(no tires yet), and four aftermarket 15" wheels that both fit the WD bolt pattern, but only two wheel adapters for them.
Sadly, the two other wheel adapters I hoped to use on the front axle never came around.

A friend who works with a high pressure water-jet cutter said it would be no problem to cut the steel stock to make two more adapters. I would just need to have them machined for the wheel studs.
Is there a source for the 8cwt wheel studs, lug nuts and tapered washers used on the original adapters, and are these the same type as used on the larger CMP's?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks, David

Phil Waterman · #8 01-06-09, 00:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by David DeWeese

Thanks Phil,
Was on the search this morning and found new ones on a site called "Bowtie Bits" in Kansas for less than $100. Don't know how to post a link to their site.

Forgot to also thank you for your earlier post on the radiator source.

Regards, David

Hi Dave

Just did a quick look through and the prices seem to be good, for those of you putting 235s or 261 in your CMPs take note looks like the V8 conversion gauge they show will fit the big temp port at the thermostat housing. Will have to e-mail them to confirm the size and to get the length of the tube.

Good find David - as I said if you do order from them please let us know how the service was and what you thing of the parts.

Cheers Phil

Alex Blair (RIP) · #9 20-12-09, 16:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Dave

Just did a quick look through and the prices seem to be good, for those of you putting 235s or 261 in your CMPs take note looks like the V8 conversion gauge they show will fit the big temp port at the thermostat housing. Will have to e-mail them to confirm the size and to get the length of the tube.

Good find David - as I said if you do order from them please let us know how the service was and what you thing of the parts.

Cheers Phil

Hi Phil..
That page link shows the 6 and V8 mechanical temperature gauges..the liquid(mercury) filled sensor bulb three lines up from the bottom of the page..That is the hardest gage to get right and replace..as they are usually cut,by no brainers removing them to "Fix" or replace something else..thinking..."I'll just cut this "Wire" and splice it back together when I'm putting it back..

WRONG !!!!!!

As a licensed refrigeration mechanic I cut my baby teeth on these types of gauges...and they are very simple to calibrate...
Here's how...
Remove gauge to bench or work table and remove glass and indicator needle..This needle is usually a press fit and is easily lifted off the stem by the use of a lever underneath the needle and using the gauge face for a fulcrum lift gently ..the use of a thin set of needle nose pliers,works best as it lifts under both sides of the needle and lifts the needle straight off the stem not bending or damaging the stem..

Next place the sensing bulb in an old can full of water..or the missus best stainless PUCK cooking pot and using the red wrench bring the water up to a boil..with the sensor in the boiling water the bulb temperature is now in a known environment...212Deg F..or 100 Deg C..
With the bulb still immersed in the water and the water boiling away,replace the needle on the shaft of the gauge with the needle pointing to the appropriate temperature reading on the gauge ..
Press lightly to fix the needle firmly to the shaft..
Remove the bulb from the water and let cool..The bulb should then indicate the gauge temperature to the ambient surrounding..
Lastly ,throuw a few King Cole Tea bags in the boiling water and have a decent cuppa char...
Did you ever order one to try it..??
Should work if the sensor lead is long enough..
Just one more tip...Use anti seize on the bulb before it is inserted into the well ..This gives a better and more accurate heat transmission co-efficient as it enlarges the heat transmission surface areas..and keeps the sensor from seizing in the sensor well.
Have a great Christmas...

David DeWeese · #10 24-01-10, 18:42

Hi,
Received this NOS temp gauge the other day from a MLU forum member in Australia. This was offered and sent to me free of charge!
Another example of the high quality of folks in this hobby and on this forum!

Thanks again, Alan! I will certainly put it to good use!
Regards, David

David DeWeese · #11 04-03-10, 03:52

Haven't had much time to work on the C8 lately, but slight progress has been made.
Although the original lug nuts ran down the 5/8-18 threads on the new adapter studs OK, they seemed slightly loose. I assume the originals are BSW thread?
I didn't have enough lug nuts for all four new adapters anyway, so had these cone washers made up using an original lug nut base as a pattern. Sourced new nuts to go with them from McMaster-Carr that, together with the washers, look close to original lug nuts I think.
So now I finally have the tires, wheels and completed adapters to put on the C8, but with my current seven-days-a-week work schedule, I can't find the free time to install them!

Thanks, David

David DeWeese · #12 29-03-10, 00:54

Hi,
Had enough time this weekend to sandblast, prime and paint my wheels for the C8. Lots of rust pitting evident on one wheel after blasting, but a pitted wheel is certainly better than none at all.
Cleaned up the three original liners I had and used a new 16" liner for the fourth one. Cut it opposite of the valve stem hole and tapered the edges with a grinder. I believe David Pope had suggested this on a previous posting. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the good information!
Are the red nuts correct for the C8 wheels?
Also prepped and primed the adapters with epoxy sealer, and painted them. Hope the paint sticks as I have had problems with painting aluminum in the past....
Thanks, David

Rob Fast · #13 29-03-10, 01:03

I never realized four 13 inch rims/tires/adapters could look that good ! I am finding this thread as well as Davids a wealth of information. Thanks Rob