Siezed track

[Ron Pier]

Here is the latest pic of my length of siezed track. I have two broken link pins, but I have got a few new ones. I'll clean and paint everything before reasembly. Most of the split pin ends of the pins are damaged, so I'll reasemble with new washers and a couple of tacks with the mig. Ron

[Ron Pier]

I know I'm harping on!! But it realy took it out of me to strip and paint this silly little 3 foot length of track. Ron

[Nigel Watson]

Hi Ron
The way I freed my track was soaking it in a large bath of diesel, left it in there for a month I think, then hammered it out. What didn't move, which wasn't too many links came out with a fast (I wish) run on tarmac roads with carrier.
Nigel

[Ron Pier]

Firstly Nigel I haven't got a tank big enough to put the track in. Second, I'm far to impatient to wait a month! I was determined it wasn't going to beat me once I'd started. Ron

[RichardT10829]

Automatic transmition fluid eats rust could try a few links in a wash basin of that ?

[REL]

Electrolysis works very well though slowly, and will not of course damage the heat treating/tempering of the steel.

Takes only water, a power supply such as a battery charger, and washing soda. The part must be free of all oil and grease, and that can be tricky if very rusty parts have been soaked in oil as it penetrates the scale and probably can't be got out even by a hot caustic bath. A tablespoon of soda to a gallon of water (it's not necessary to be precise), some rebar or expanded metal and that's it. Connect the item to be cleaned to the negative lead and the expanded metal or rebar to the positive lead and let it "cook". The expanded metal or rebar must be cleaned off every day with a brush and water to keep the process working "full speed".

Some machinery collectors in Australia have had good success using a molasses based mixture, which sets up some kind of reaction that removes rust.

http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/mont...rian/rust.html