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  #1  
Old 31-12-08, 01:20
Bob Moseley (RIP)'s Avatar
Bob Moseley (RIP) Bob Moseley (RIP) is offline
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Default Internet Research

Hi all and back on track Terry. I did some Google research on needle removal and surprisingly most of the advice was exactly as I do it. Grasp the needle with thumb and forefinger and gently twist. It was suggested that the needle be first rotated to its maximum speed stop but I overcome this by grasping the shaft with pointed nose pliers. To re-install simply place the needle on the shaft in its correct position and gently tap into place. Here again I use the pliers to minimise the concussion through the shaft drive train.

Bob
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  #2  
Old 31-12-08, 06:19
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Mike

Jeep and Dodge Used Autolite instruments, not S.W. (the speedo was different) as I recall.
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  #3  
Old 31-12-08, 07:50
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sth65pac sth65pac is offline
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Default Knowledge

Lynn,

You are more right. I am surprised at how many companies are under an umbrella of their parent.

Autolite exists today, being Ford's spares maker. Whom is now Bendix, (part of Honeywell) some spares are made made under licence to AEG. The list goes on.

Finding the 'real' player is the hardest game of all.

Ian
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  #4  
Old 01-01-09, 06:46
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Moseley View Post
Grasp the needle with thumb and forefinger and gently twist. It was suggested that the needle be first rotated to its maximum speed stop but I overcome this by grasping the shaft with pointed nose pliers.

Bob
I cannot see how you could do that without damaging the needle .. It's very delicate will distort-twist out of shape easily with sideways pressure
Mike
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  #5  
Old 01-01-09, 07:06
jim sewell jim sewell is offline
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Default Chev speedo needles

New needles can be purchased for Chev retangular dashs from Bowtiebits .
bowtiebits @msn.com

Mike, did you end up obtaining some 1'' webbing as I have some available .
Regards
Jim S.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-09, 00:38
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Bob Moseley (RIP) Bob Moseley (RIP) is offline
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Default Needle Damage

Hi Mike - I have never had a problem with the needle distorting, maybe I have just been lucky. Sometimes a needle is really stuck on the shaft so in that case I put a drop of RP7 or the like into the tiny hole on top of the needle and let it soak for a while. BTW did you ever find your flying needles.

Bob
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  #7  
Old 02-01-09, 02:36
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Originally Posted by Bob Moseley View Post
BTW did you ever find your flying needles.

Bob
No, never did find em .. annoying .
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  #8  
Old 10-01-09, 04:44
Ian Fawbert Ian Fawbert is offline
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Hi guys,

I`m in the middle of doing the guagres for my jeep and being the round type, i thought i would chime in on a few things i have learnt/done seen.

Lynn, the jeeps did use Stewart Warner guages. As a rule of thumb, Willys used Autolite, Ford used SW (with some mixes during contracts). The speedo as you correctly said was different in some cases, ranging from SW, Autolite, King Seeley and Motometer- all depending on model and year of MB or GPW and all with different features- needle shape, milage increments, face shape, text, fonts. Military AC guages in jeeps are non factory fitted- they are replacements.

Mike, as for the needles i know exactly what you mean about them flying off! I lost the needle for my early GPW's speedo- the early GPW speedo's are hard enough to find so getting another needle would have been a nightmare! I ended up finding it at the bottom of a tub of scrap steel in the corner of the shed under the bench. It took me a good 1 1/2 hours to find it!

In regards to getting the bezel off, i made a small tool which looks kind of like a can opener. I find its not a damaging to the bezel as a screwdriver was. As a tip, i also start at the bottom of the guage and work my way up/around- you dont need to go all the way round to get the bezel off, so when abit over half way it should pop/slide off. Thus when you put it back on, any pry marks are located at the bottom where they are harder to see/not as visible.

In regards to removing faces which are riveted on, i used a dremel (or similar small grinder) to remove the back of the rivet. Then it can be pushed out and face taken off. Mr faces are being done at the moment and when finished i will just pop the rivets back in and i intend to use some glue type substance on the back to hold them in place/stop them falling out and the face coming loose.


Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Ian.
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1942 Script Willys MB, sn:131175
1942 Script Ford GPW, sn:11730
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  #9  
Old 10-01-09, 13:48
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Default Glue..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Fawbert View Post
Hi guys,

I`m in the middle of doing the guagres for my jeep and being the round type, i thought i would chime in on a few things i have learnt/done seen.

Lynn, the jeeps did use Stewart Warner guages. As a rule of thumb, Willys used Autolite, Ford used SW (with some mixes during contracts). The speedo as you correctly said was different in some cases, ranging from SW, Autolite, King Seeley and Motometer- all depending on model and year of MB or GPW and all with different features- needle shape, milage increments, face shape, text, fonts. Military AC guages in jeeps are non factory fitted- they are replacements.

Mike, as for the needles i know exactly what you mean about them flying off! I lost the needle for my early GPW's speedo- the early GPW speedo's are hard enough to find so getting another needle would have been a nightmare! I ended up finding it at the bottom of a tub of scrap steel in the corner of the shed under the bench. It took me a good 1 1/2 hours to find it!

In regards to getting the bezel off, i made a small tool which looks kind of like a can opener. I find its not a damaging to the bezel as a screwdriver was. As a tip, i also start at the bottom of the guage and work my way up/around- you dont need to go all the way round to get the bezel off, so when abit over half way it should pop/slide off. Thus when you put it back on, any pry marks are located at the bottom where they are harder to see/not as visible.

In regards to removing faces which are riveted on, i used a dremel (or similar small grinder) to remove the back of the rivet. Then it can be pushed out and face taken off. Mr faces are being done at the moment and when finished i will just pop the rivets back in and i intend to use some glue type substance on the back to hold them in place/stop them falling out and the face coming loose.


Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Ian.

Ian..
Use this glue,if you can get it...
Sticks anything to anything..forever..
Sticks like camel crap to a prayer rug..
http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues.aspx

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  #10  
Old 02-01-09, 02:34
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim sewell View Post
Mike, did you end up obtaining some 1'' webbing as I have some available .
Regards
Jim S.
hi Jim

Yes , I discovered I can buy a 8 metre length at the local Horse equipment shop.. they sell lunge reins ( whatever that is ), made from 1" cotton ( chinese made I suspect ) webbing . It is around 2mm thick as opposed to the genuine stuff which is 3 mm ..and it's a very dark green, but its better than nothing .

Out of interest: What is the webbing you have there ? Is it the lighter khaki colour and what length ? I am interested in it, PM me . The local disposals shop has just about run out of the genuine WW2 era webbing items .. I spotted some 1944 dated compass pouches NOS, and a few of the map holders 1943 dated - they told me the WW2 era stock has just about dried up..after 30 years of selling this stuff ..seems like the end is near .

Mike
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1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
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1942-45 Jeep salad
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