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Hmm,
well Bob & I have had a long discussion about this, there is a machine that can do the job, But they are few and far between. Basically the stainless (or steel) ring around the instrument is rolled on (or, in some cases squeezed on) in the manufacture. The machine that undoes this process is owned by a select few. If you need to get an instrument apart, you MAY find an aircraft instrument repairer, or a motorcycle instrument repairer, has the tool. I would enquire first, so that the instruments do not suffer any damage by someone trying to please your request to get the items apart. When I was in the Navy, we used to use the tool to fix aircraft instruments, but someone threw the tool away as they were not used enough... (No comment on that). The removal tool looks a bit like an old fashioned can-opener with a peg, instead of a cutter, which you prise under the edge of the clamp and then turn the handle, the ring around the outside is relieved from the edge of the instrument. A tricky machine, I have thought about trying to make one.. If I could get my hands on one, I would be a very busy fellow, they are a godsend as far as repairs go. I have never done this, but if you were to carefully slice the retaining ring in half, you would be able to get teh instrument apart, but then you would have an obvious cut on the ring! Ian
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep |
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Hi Ian - all good advice. Until I can get my hands on one of these "can openers" a small screwdriver will suffice. Fortunately the "steel ring" as you describe it, I call it a bezel, is thin gauge metal and is easily bent. Just work with the screwdriver around the bezel where it contacts onto the housing and pry the metal away in small increments. Eventually that area will be straight enough to remove the bezel and glass. To replace simply use pliers to bent the metal back around the instrument.
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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Hi Bob,
That what i use a small screwdriver and it work well ![]() ![]()
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Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep |
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Hi Eric - just be careful and don't exert too much pressure on anything. To remove the needles (arrows) I grasp the needle shaft with a pair of pointed nosed pliers and then twist the needle backwards and forwards until it comes off the shaft. This is very delicate and I have twisted of several shafts as the needle was frozen onto it. When replacing, again grasp the shaft with the pliers, position the needle onto the shaft and gently tap it back on. You need to hold the shaft as the tapping may damage the shaft seat. I have replicated the speedometer face through another decal so that is available. Looking at your bravery has inspired me to re-visit the gauges.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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Bob & everyonne else,
You can also make up a 'needle fork'. Get a conventional fork cut the two outer tynes off, and bend the two inner tynes very close together, allowing a small slot of about 1-2mm to exist between the two tynes. Use a cheap, pressed sheet, flat tyned fork, is the best bet as it provides the most pressure on the inside of the needle on the shaft. Not Granny's heirloom silver forks with the rounded points. Make these tynes so close, that you can only slide them around a shaft, then the circular part of the needle (mounting bit where the shaft goes through) can be used as a purchase point behind the needle. When removing the needle, slide the fork behind the needle rest the tynes against the circular part in the centre, and pull vertically. It will save you twisting shafts.. ![]() Ian.
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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Hi Ian - Ada is out today so I'll hunt around for a fork. Re. pliers usage, I only use them to grasp the shaft, usually between the face plate mounting bracket and the magnetic drive. This way there is no pressure exerted on the needle shaft drive train and the needle callibration spring.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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Hi all - I am having trouble getting the prongs close enough together.
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
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What kind of guages you restoring with that one ![]() ![]()
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Eric Thibodeau 1942 willys Jeep |
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