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  #1  
Old 15-10-08, 23:19
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RHClarke View Post
Without reading all of the details already posted, I have a few questions:

Did you pull the tank and clean it out?
New lines and filter?
Is the fuel pump OK?
These are the Apprentice Motor Mechanic questions I need. I'll report back.

The sender unit on the tank was removed and replaced once upon a time. Some of the little screws are missing.

The lines have been disconnected and exposed to the air. Other than blowing out the spider eggs, and reconnecting the ends, why replace them?

Hmm, fuel pump? Hafta go read the manual to see whether it is in the tank or in the engine compartment.
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- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #2  
Old 15-10-08, 23:37
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
These are the Apprentice Motor Mechanic questions I need. I'll report back.

The sender unit on the tank was removed and replaced once upon a time. Some of the little screws are missing.

The lines have been disconnected and exposed to the air. Other than blowing out the spider eggs, and reconnecting the ends, why replace them?

Hmm, fuel pump? Hafta go read the manual to see whether it is in the tank or in the engine compartment.
Check your filter for deposits. That could be a good indicator of contamination. I would recommend replacing the lines if upon inspection the inside of the tubes produce rust - you will have to find a way of pushing a thread thru the line (suggest blast of air), attach a small but reasonably big enough swab to the line and pull her thru. Look for "crap" - which is anything that should not be there. Chances are there may be varnish from evaporated gas or other particulates that inevitably made it into the fuel tank.

Or, you could use the Hammond method - soak in chemical cleaner and then blast the crap out the lines with a high pressure air hose...do not look in the other end of the line when doing so...and don't ask...

In any case, if you are confident in the condition of your lines, I suggest you carry on and inspect the fuel pump.
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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  #3  
Old 16-10-08, 07:28
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
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Often the fuel pumps will dry out after sitting an extended period of time. The bit of crud in there can cause the one way valves to not work. Sometimes merely priming the pump with a bit of fuel poured down the line will cause it to develop suction again, other times you have top open it up and clean it out.

A major problem with the old M38A1s is that the rather course fuel fiilter built into the tank does not screen out the really fine particulate. These can build up in the fuel pump causing it to not pump, or else get into the needle valve and cause the jeep to flood, especially when it is hot and sitting at a stop sign. An inline fuel filter installed in the short flexline right before the pump will cure that problem.
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  #4  
Old 16-03-09, 02:45
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
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Default A nice sunny day with the Jeep

So knowing my limits, I conceded that my mechanical knowledge is limiting my M38Al's advancement back onto the road. My regular car mechanic has some quiet time during school spring break, and agreed to put the Jeep in the corner of the garage for time to time work. He has a short list of things (all mechanical) to work on.

I refilled the tires after a long winter, and with a long-shaft jack lifted it off the jackstands. Then I mounted the A-frame tow bar to the bumper. The family minivan, otherwise known as the prime mover, was backed down the driveway until the remnant snowbanks stopped me. Using the van as an anchor, with chain, tow straps, and an 8-yr old boy on the handwinch, the Jeep was slowly extricated from the Montreal Driveway Shelter. The boy was quite excited to help.

Out in the bright sunshine, several things happened. The 2 batteries held their charge perfectly over the winter. The accumulated old and new parts were sorted out into big plastic tubs. Humidity can accumulate in sealed parts bags left outside. The rust scale and tree leaves were vacuumed out. I replaced the windshield washer pump with one from the OMVA sale in Kanata 18mos ago. I diagnosed that the choke cable is verily uncooperative and permanently seized. Fortunately the fording handle and its cable are the same on the other side of the firewall. But the best thing was meeting a fellow who literally skipped across the front snowbank and introduced himself saying he had a Jeep like this too! And he lives in the neighbourhood!

For the collective wisdom - the fording crankcase vent lever on the fuel pump, is the normal operating location up or down? The damper on the air intake is wired off.

For Alex Blair - standby for "Jeff" to call wanting to buy ordnance parts and shop manuals for the M38A1. $$ $$ $$

For Clive - the sap is running!
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #5  
Old 16-03-09, 03:20
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
For Alex Blair - standby for "Jeff" to call wanting to buy ordnance parts and shop manuals for the M38A1. $$ $$ $$
After a year in the hands of Joel Bellerose in the wilds of Arnprior, the collection of manuals that was Alex Blair's is now in my posession and I will be happy to talk/e-mail "Jeff" about (Canadian) Jeep manuals.
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  #6  
Old 09-04-09, 01:53
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Bowker View Post
After a year in the hands of Joel Bellerose in the wilds of Arnprior, the collection of manuals that was Alex Blair's is now in my posession and I will be happy to talk/e-mail "Jeff" about (Canadian) Jeep manuals.
hi Grant..
No call from the varlet yet..maybe Terry can give us a number or get him to call us for some manuals...You 'da man....U...AL...!!
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  #7  
Old 09-04-09, 20:26
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
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When a jeep (or any vehicle for that matter) sits for any length of time, the little check valves can either dry out or some of the particulate may keep them from sealing. The jeep has 6 of those little check valves in the pump if I recall, and the failre of even one will cause the pump not to pump. I found that by wetting the pump with some fuel (or priming the pump would be the better term) the pumps would normally work again.

When they were selling the M38A1s at auction in the mid 80s, I got one jeep with an almost brand new engine for only $1100 because they could not get it to run during the auction. A bit of gas from a squirt can into the pump quickly cured that and it was a beatiful running jeep. Replacing the stale gas made it run even better.
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  #8  
Old 10-06-09, 04:52
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shouting at clouds
Posts: 3,154
Default I need some starting troubleshooting ...

The M38A1 CDN3 has: new plugs, new coil, new condensor, new rotor, new little rubber washers between the distributor cap and the cover (packed in Oct 1951), new fuel pump, freshly charged batteries. The wires spark. The plugs spark. The carb flows. The fuel lines flow. The gas is fresh. The only weak part is the starter isn't turning fast enough to kick over. I've tried ether spray, choke, stomping the accelerator, and turning it with the feeds back at neutral. But it just won't kick!

Short of starting under compression, what else can I do? Is there some electrical test I can do to see if it is getting 24v vs 12v?
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #9  
Old 26-06-09, 00:59
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shouting at clouds
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Well, I towed it down the block to a now abandoned hospital grounds and tried starting under compression. No luck! But it does backfire. Merde!

I had it in the driveway afterwards and a half-ton pulled up. The driver dismounts and approaches with the fixed eye gaze, swaggering rolling gait of a gunfighter. Eyeballing the Jeep.

Smart alec me sez, 'You're not from these parts mister. You must be here for the Jeep.'

After trading one-liner questions, 'fifty-three?', 'seventy', 'runs?', 'nope', 'good shape?', 'yes and no', etc. We introduced ourselves and it turns out I've corresponded with the fellow over parts. He wasn't selling, but offered to stop by for the next few nights to help. I'll take any free advice given.

All 4 spark plugs and leads fire nicely. Gap tested and put into spec.

He brought a compression tester one night. #1 is 90 psi dry/96 psi with oil; #2 is 60/96, #3 is 110/114, and #4 is 90 and 104. The manual says 120 psi preferred.

Another night he interpreted the engine block dataplate. Bored 40 over, Mains 30 over, Rod Ends 30 over. Rebuilt Jul 84 by Bennett and Hanson in Smiths Falls, ON.

The backfiring and pulled plugs suggest it is running too rich. Time to teach myself about timing.

On another topic, how can I function the starter pedal mechanism from under the hood? A short bar or a long screwdriver?
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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