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  #1  
Old 07-06-21, 14:35
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: SW Ontario, Canada
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Default CMP Fender to body joins

I'm looking for information on the correct material seated between CMP fenders and bodies. Specifically I need to know what was used on a 1944 HUW but am interested to know (as I suspect) if it evolved during wartime production.
My foggy recollection taking the fenders off my HUW was that there was a thin strip of impregnated fabric along the joint. I also think 11 and 12 cabs had a material folded in half such that it formed a visible round bead along the seam.

What is correct? Any help appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 07-06-21, 17:51
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Location: Burnaby B.C. Canada
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Default fender felts.

I have the front ones that go between the front fenders and the front clip, I'll post pictures.
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  #3  
Old 07-06-21, 17:57
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Hi Bruce.

If it helps at all, my 44 15-cwt Chev WIRE-5 had driver side original fenders. The fender welt on the two pieces was an oilcloth type of fabric wrapped around a small cotton cord about 1/8-inch to 3/16-inch in diameter. Width about one inch.

The left side rear fender section had been damaged, removed and repaired at some point. It had a simple flat welt in it that was an impregnated cloth with no bead on the side at all.

The same beaded welt showed up in the WIRE-5 2K1 Box finishing the seam between the walls and ceiling plywood.

Back in the early 1980’s, Spae-Naur carried a variety of the oilcloth beaded fender welt: different widths and bead diameters.

My guess is fender welting usage may have varied over time through 11, 12 and 13 Pattern vehicles, but at any given point in time, across all weight classes, Chevrolet was probably using the same welt. Simple economy of production.

Hope this helps and doesn’t confuse.

David
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Old 23-06-21, 11:07
Ganmain Tony's Avatar
Ganmain Tony Ganmain Tony is offline
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Default P Channel.

Bruce,

I do realise you asked what was the original material that went between the guards.

I believe MAC's have a reproduction of what we call P Channel.

I got some from the local rubber store in Wagga. But it is completely rubber and has no cord running through it. (The original bits I found when dismantling the F15 did have a rope/cord in them)

I can take a picture and post it here if it helps.
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  #5  
Old 23-06-21, 13:03
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Location: SW Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony View Post
Bruce,

I do realise you asked what was the original material that went between the guards.

I believe MAC's have a reproduction of what we call P Channel.

I got some from the local rubber store in Wagga. But it is completely rubber and has no cord running through it. (The original bits I found when dismantling the F15 did have a rope/cord in them)

I can take a picture and post it here if it helps.
That would be great. Original is nice, but finding something that looks the part and does the job works too.
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  #6  
Old 23-06-21, 14:02
rob love rob love is offline
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Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
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I have always made the fender welting with canvas and rubber cord. A welting foot on the sewing machine lets you get the cord sewn in nice and tight. Then I spray the whole thing with asphalt undercoating from a can. I do the same with cotton webbing I use for fuel tank brackets. Without the asphalt, the webbing just soaks up the water and ensures, combines with any rubbing action of the area, rust.



You will want to make sure the fenders are painted with a tough and waterproof coating like POR-15. I have seen many otherwise perfect fenders with pinhole rust through and severe pitting where the antisqueek welting was. That said, done right, it will likely outlive you.
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  #7  
Old 23-06-21, 16:02
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Rob, thanks for the asphalt undercoating idea. I like it and was wondering what to impregnate all my roof fiber seals with.
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