Need part numbers for C15A brakes

[Lang]

Derek,

Tell me what parts you need and I will give you the numbers. Might be easier if I just scan the pages out of the parts book and send them to your email address - I don't know how to get scanned stuff small enough for MLU to take it.

Lang

[sapper740]

Originally Posted by Lang

Derek,

Tell me what parts you need and I will give you the numbers. Might be easier if I just scan the pages out of the parts book and send them to your email address - I don't know how to get scanned stuff small enough for MLU to take it.

Lang

Master cylinder, Front and rear wheel cylinders, brake shoes, brake return springs. The seal for the outer bearing in the brake hub appears intact...there hasn't been any gear lube leaking into the brake drum, but if you have a parts number for that, I'll try to dig one up. Also I need a new locking washer for the "Jesus" nut that holds the drum onto the spindle. I can probably find suitable springs from modern equivalents, but if you have a parts number for those also, by all means email me at:

sapper740@grandecom.net


Any help greatly appreciated, Derek.

[Grant Bowker]

Master cylinder, try to save your old one so it can be sleeved. The bottom mount style used on C15A is rare, particularly in the required 1.25" bore. When the 1" bore ones show up on e-bay they are usually described as 1936 Chevrolet.
Wheel cylinders, backing plates, etc should be Ford parts, so consider Mac's or other Ford parts suppliers. Bob Carriere had luck taking one of his wheel cylinders into a local heavy truck repair shop and having them compare it to their catalogues, the shop sells Wagner hoses etc so the cylinders might have been Wagner too?
Same logic for brake shoes. They can be relined if the underlying parts are solid. LWD parts lists NOS shoes, or Mac's sells likely looking shoes (but I haven't checked parts #s). Check the C15A parts book, take the Ford style numbers and enter them on Mac's site, I've seen some parts show up on this method.

[Bob Carriere]

Will need to follow up from home for specifics.

1. Grant is right..... save that master cylinder and get it resleeved..... you might want to check Hemmings for a resto shop near you. In Canada Stuart in Stoney Creek charegs about $200 for a S.S. job.

Wheel cylinders are Wagner with different numbers for front and rear..... I have the numbers at home will flash it on tonite. They are $40 each and were used well into the late 50s in industrial applications...i.e. fork lifts, etc.

I would strongly recommend you take the time to change all your axle seals..... why do the job twice......even if they do not leak...now.... they will. If the are original.... probaby leather..... give them a few weeks with fresh lub and some good hot operating temperature and start mopping up leaks. Besides they are not expensive.

By the way in most instances, forget the original part numbers form the 40s parts book. Most modern search engines and comparaison charts will go that far back. A good professional industrial bearing shop will measure the ID, OD thickness and search for various suppliers. Ottawa is a not a "commercial/production" town but I found a shop called Industrial Solutions and they provide/search bearing and seals according to dimensions.

The big 5 or 6 inch oil seals in the front brake drums..... I was quoted up to $60 each..... I walked in, he measured and came back with one off the shelf and apologized for having only one but 36 hours later the second one arrived..... and only 19.95 to boot.

Rear axle seals... inner.... that has a skirt that fits inside the sheet metal cup of the axle..... available from Mac Auto Ford repro shop in Niagara for about $25...... claimed to fit a 1 1/2 to 3 ton Ford rear axle. They only had one.... my guy in Ottawa found one in California $24 incl. shipping..... but when I got it it was old stock with a leather seal which had to be soaked in engine oil. If you can do it... stay away from NOS with leather..... the new neoprene are much better.

If you work on the tranny and T case..... if your shaft rubbing surfaces are pittedgrooved worn..... DO consider using a speedy sleeve..... a very thin SS sleev that is gently pressed on.....hot/cold contrast will help. Again they are purchased by size min. to max. BUT they are expensive.... on a T case a bearing and races is about $45.00..... seal maybe $12.... the Speedy Sleeve will set you back $40 + -....... machining the shaft and rebuilding to nos size would be much more expensive.

To date I have replaced everything on a C15a....WITH.. new available stock items........the exception being the infamous flat bearing in the front axle on top and bottom of the egg cup...commonly referred to as king pin bearings...... ## 928... made by New Departure...... no new equivalent exists. Remaining NOS stock World Wide less than 100 at last count and priced at $200 +++ each .....with four needed. We strongly suspect they that they are also used on Cadilac LaSalle front King pin circa 1935-37.

Brake shoes....... clean up what you have.... if not damaged or cracked... probably script stamped "FORD"...... have new linings installed rivited or glue bonded..... have your brake drums cleaned up on a lathe and have the shoes arced to fit exactly the new curve of the drums.... about $250 for the four shoes...... $35 per drum to turn lightly and bring your old bearing for the set up on the lathe.

E brake drum lining about $125........

if you replace or clean up and repack bearings...... repacking bearing can be made easier if you use one of the large syringe needles they sell that fits into the grease gun fitting..... it allows you to insert grease deep into the guts of a bearing much better and more economical that by hand or using the bearing cones regualrly sold in Ato parts houses.

Now you only need to do one thing for us on the Forum...... post lots of pictures of your before and after successes or boo boo!!!!!

BooBee

[Barry Churcher]

We are in the process of making up a bracket to replace the master cylinder with the same 1.25 bore and the side mounts. This cylinder is still available from Wagner. I will post our progress.
Barry

Master Cylinder.jpg

This original cylinder mounting bracket is desert tan. We have looked at it ten ways to Sunday in every light. Did they paint any HUP's for the desert?

Desert Tan.jpg

[Bob Carriere]

..... nice creative thinking Barry.

Are you thinking of fabricating a new bracket from scratch or modifying the existing CMP component....???

On the color...sand color ... anything is possible....... various colours of available prepainted parts on the assembly line 60 years ago..... field repairs...... or good old Ontario road dust cooked on for 60 years.

Knowing the differences/anomalies between a regular cab 13 and the irregular HUP...... are you sure the master cyl. bracket is exactly the same as the HUP or are you doing just a "one of"...... having worked on Rob's HUP there are sgnificant differences to the hardware attched to the frame due to the different frame dimensions.

Keep us posted via pictures of your prototype...... as the original CMP bottom mounted MBC are as rare as fresh dinosaur poop!!!!

BooB

[Max Hedges]

would you like me to find one or two to send over your way to help you blokes out
never had a problem finding them here
Max

[Dirk Leegwater (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Brake shoes.......clean up what you have....if not damaged or cracked... probably script stamped "FORD"..have new linings
installed rivited or glue bonded..have your brake drums cleaned up on a latheand have the shoes arced to fit exactly the new curve of the drums....about $250 for the four shoes.....$35 per drum to turn lightly and bring your old bearing for the set up on the lathe......E brake drum lining about $125........

Hi Bob,

Maybe nice for Canadian "LwD" customers to make a CMP "Brake Shop" by Barry "Churcher's Automotiv" in Whitby. More Canadian brake parts plus other parts, here below:

http://www.lwdparts.com/partscanada?...y=parcan&id=a&

Dirk

[Bob Carriere]

Are you thinking of setting up a Canadian Branch of LWD......?

Barry will not get much work done as we will all drop in for a visit and chat.... the poor fella will not get any work done.

But seriously..... is it not time to set up a list of most asked for sought after parts and do a bulk shipment to Canada....... the parts would love coming home close to Oshawa.

I have a list of things I woudl like to get from the Easter Bunny......

Starting with two sets of ALL the perishable parts of the Chevrolet brake booster.....maybe 3 or 4 sets if Walde and Phil Waterman are interested.

....and if that does not work how about organizing a bulk shipments of pre sold pre paid parts to be shipped bulk like it was done a few years ago...?

I'll be up all night making my list.....

...... and we still have to get together for a beer whenever you are on this side of the Ocean.

Bob

[Dirk Leegwater (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Are you thinking of setting up a Canadian Branch of LWD ?
But seriously..... is it not time to set up a list of most asked for sought after parts and do a bulk shipment to Canada.......
the parts would love coming home close to Oshawa........

This year making plans to send a container (with inside a treasure for ?) to Canada. Room enough left for special "heavy" parts but also for small parcels etc. Shipping time: after the "War and Peace" show in Beltring.

Dirk

[sapper740]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

I would strongly recommend you take the time to change all your axle seals..... why do the job twice......even if they do not leak...now.... they will. If the are original.... probaby leather..... give them a few weeks with fresh lub and some good hot operating temperature and start mopping up leaks. Besides they are not expensive.

The big 5 or 6 inch oil seals in the front brake drums..... I was quoted up to $60 each..... I walked in, he measured and came back with one off the shelf and apologized for having only one but 36 hours later the second one arrived..... and only 19.95 to boot.
BooBee

Hey Bob, any chance you have a part number on the front axle seals? There is no part number visible on the one side...on the other it says "INDUSTRIA ARGENTINA" and "0 5 0 2". They are both neoprene and appear to be in good condition. I'm not going to pull them unless I have a new one to go back in and a check around here has come up empty for those seals. Thanks, Derek.

[Bob Carriere]

....got numbers and brand at home....... also got part numbers for Mac's seals.etc......

will get back to you from home......

Bob C.

[sapper740]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

....got numbers and brand at home....... also got part numbers for Mac's seals.etc......

will get back to you from home......

Bob C.

Muchly appreciated! Derek.