2022 at the Hammond Barn

[Grant Bowker]

Based on Bob's experience with getting components cut/bent/fabricated for the 2B1 body and mine preparing panels for the 15 cwt GS trailer I'd like to make a few comments/suggestions:

1. Be absolutely clear in your mind what you are trying to achieve.
2. Prepare sketches (with dimensions) so you will be able to discuss with the fabricator.
3. Discuss with the fabricator to be sure they understand the standard you need them to work to and that they are able/willing to do this.
4. Confirm whether they work to inside or outside dimensions - then re-do the sketches to give them dimensions in the style they are used to. Try very hard to avoid mixing styles of dimensioning. If you must mix styles be exceptionally clear.
5. Discuss which dimensions are critical to success and which ones you can give them a little freedom on.
6. Ask the fabricator if they have suggestions or questions to give/get a better product.
7. Be willing to consider design/fabrication changes compared to original fabrications that don't affect the finished product to better suit current tooling. (the older bending brakes could do things the modern press brakes can't - and vice versa).
8. If you have the option (without making the fabricator feel you don't trust them), offer to check/confirm with the fabricator that the first few parts are coming out the way you want them to so that you don't get to the end of the job and discover that the parts can't be assembled into what you want to make.

The objective has to be to help the fabricator give you parts of a quality that will make you want to use their services in future and be willing recommend them to others while keeping the fabricators happy to have you as a future client for your next project

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Grant

Would add one particular point to discuss with your fabricator. Do they measure to the inside of the bend or outside of the bend.

When I had the replacement inside frame rails my C60L bent they confused inside with outside of the bend on the channel bends for the rails. Meant having to remove 1/4 inch down the entire length.

Cheers Phil

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Grant

Would add one particular point to discuss with your fabricator. Do they measure to the inside of the bend or outside of the bend.

When I had the replacement inside frame rails my C60L bent they confused inside with outside of the bend on the channel bends for the rails. Meant having to remove 1/4 inch down the entire length.

Cheers Phil

Very true, I recall your description of the diagonal slice to adjust the size and the amount of work it caused. Bob and I should be down to see you at Weare next month.

[Jordan Baker]

One other point

When providing a sample piece. Make sure they understand you want it made the same way as it was then. I’ve had a few times where the shop figured they knew best and made it how they would make it today.

[Grant Bowker]

Yesterday I broke out the rivetting tools (4x rivet gun - originally aircraft rivets, rivet cutting pliers) and we installed the early style tarp securing points onto the 2B1 body (and a serious smile onto Bob).

This is another case of the appropriate tools making a job much easier. The rivet cutting pliers shear the rivet while keeping the shank round to fit the workpiece holes. The trigger style used on the rivet gun makes it much easier to do one or two taps on the rivet to get it started before finishing the job.
Bob had recovered every one of the brass securing points he could find on his property - and ended up with exactly the number needed, no spares. Copper flathead rivets were used as per original. Bob had bought a bag of 100 (42 needed for the job) to allow for experimentation, cutting failures, riveting failures and dropped on the floor and lost. In the end these only added up to 6 rivets so a bag of 50 would have been enough but the supplier's https://www.rivetsonline.com/copper-rivets minimum order of 100 had been a reasonable privce including prompt delivery.

[Bob Carriere]

Well never to late to learn new tricks.......

Thanks to the coaching and assistance from Grant, we have done the "hot" steel rivets on the tail gate and the soft copper rivets using his "special" aircraft riveting gun which is far more controllable than the PA air hammer.....

We even used some body shop steel glue to seal up the bulkhead of the 2B1 to the floor.......... we had used the same glue before for the re-skinning of the back cab wall skin and the inside "W" ribbing on the back of the cab....and it has not fallen off yet!!!!

Will be dormant for the next two weeks while vacationing on White lake.

Cheers

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

Yesterday I broke out the rivetting tools (4x rivet gun - originally aircraft rivets, rivet cutting pliers) and we installed the early style tarp securing points onto the 2B1 body (and a serious smile onto Bob).

This is another case of the appropriate tools making a job much easier. The rivet cutting pliers shear the rivet while keeping the shank round to fit the workpiece holes. .....

I may arrange for a shop visit with a 1950s plastic binoculars case. The vinyl hinge has come apart, and it needs ---- some copper rivets. Otherwise, it is a serviceable period artifact for my Jeep.

[Grant Bowker]

More progress.

Stffening braces adde to the inside of the headboard.
Upper mounts for the hoopsticks (to use the description form the DND Body Parts list) added to the upper side panels. The hoopsticks will definitely need the lower hoopstick brackets for stabolity but it was nice to do the test fit and have the hoopsticks just fit nicely into place with no force required. Yes, you think that carefully measured and manufactured parts should fit but it's still a good feeling when they actually do.