7 mm thin-wall tube spanner or hex socket

[Mike K]

The drill and file method you mentioned is ok but very slow. You could use a angle grinder instead of the file but be super careful , wear face protection and rotate the socket slowly. The socket will want to fly off so it needs to be firmly jammed onto the extension.

Buy a little lathe, every vehicle restorer needs one !

Mount the socket directly in the drill Chuck and grind one half then turn it around grind down the other half.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iPa0jFlFW70

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

I'd do it with a bench grinder and eyeball.

[James P]

You will need a 1/2" chuck drill (think of that as a "mini lathe") and a angle head grinder with a flap wheel to do this trick, put the deep socket in the drill chuck and while running both, work the flap wheel along the socket till you bring it down to the desired size that will fit in the recess. I would replace the 7mm bolts with allen headed caps (as they should have in the first place).

[David Herbert]

I am not sure why there is mention of deep sockets above but surely it is possible to grind the outside of a 1/4" drive 7mm socket until it fits. This could easily be done by eye, holding the socket by a long 1/4" drive extension and using either a bench grinder or an angle grinder held still by someone else or even ratchet strap it to a pallet (for example). Just go slow and don't try to take too much off quickly. It doesn't need to look pretty, just work.

David

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Wear face protection and rotate the socket slowly. The socket will want to fly off so it needs to be firmly jammed onto the extension.

I agree that safety should be a factor in this operation. Consider the relative motion of the part being turned down (socket) and the "cutting tool" (file, grinding wheel, flap disk...) and try to arrange it so that the forces push the socket onto your holder (extension rod, mandrel, ...) rather than trying to make it fly to the far corner of your shop (through you).
I also agree that it would make so much sense if manufacturers would design assemblies to make service easy rather than hard, particularly if they are selling the repair/replacement parts (rather than leaving it to the aftermarket). Perhaps designers should have a mandatory month working (hands on, not observing) in repair shops each year to keep this in their minds...

[rob love]

If the depth is what you are showing in your photo of the regulator, run a dremel cutting disc over each screw putting a slot on them and remove them with a screwdriver. Don't be afraid to go into the old regulator if need be.


Grinding down your cheapest 7mm socket to a tapered point would not be hard to do either. I would use an angle grinder myself with a sanding disc after fixing the socket on an extension and running it in the drill press.

[Bob Carriere]

I have a set of cheap ones ...hand held screw driver handle with a permanent socket at the end..........each driver is a different size.......and the walls are very thin/cheap but mine are Imperial ..... may be they have similar in Metric.

[Lionelgee]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

I have a set of cheap ones ...hand held screw driver handle with a permanent socket at the end..........each driver is a different size.......and the walls are very thin/cheap but mine are Imperial ..... may be they have similar in Metric.

Hello Bob,

I was trying to buy some of the hex nut drivers that you describe locally and did not manage to. The closest I came was a set which only went up to 6 mm.

I can buy sets online like this one in the photo. However I do not know how thick the walls are. I could be waiting for them to arrive in the post only to find that the walls are too thick.

Well, one eBay order for the set of nut drivers at $26 Aus including postage has just been placed. I have to take the gamble that they fit I suppose. A set would come in handy anyway even if it does not fit the alternator.

Kind regards
Lionel