Lynx II, hull # 4225

[Tony Smith]

I know they fit, and are original parts, but Gawd! Those ratchet bolts look shocking. When so much else of the work you have done is to a high standard, have you considered new replacements?

Third Gen Automotive sell a lot of NOS original parts and complement that with a range of quality repro parts.

Often, either to clear the shelves or to stimulate interest, they list Ebay auctions starting at $0.01.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39360307813...8AAOSwr8BeO6FJ

You might need to ask a question first to confirm the hex size to ensure it will suit your situation.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, I'd suggest that your ratchet bolt is more for show than use. It is far more likely to have the crankhandle start spinning with the engine after it has started, than one of the originals.
I have seen this. I was in the Army on exercise in the J in Malaysia. I started a 150 Cu Ft. fridge (Onan 2 cylinder diesel as I recall) In this case the handle had a sprung loaded wedge. These handles are short but heavy cast steel with a wooden handle. "Anyhoo" it spun with the engine (straight up to high idle) and then flew off. It hit a man in the side of the head quite hard, knocking him to the ground. I honestly expected it to kill him, but after a few minutes he seemed o.k. The guy was a Singaporean bus driver, working for the N.Z. Army. I never saw him again, but always think of this incident, whenever a crankhandle is involved. I think the slot cut of your bolt leaves a bit to be desired. Just sayin. Btw, I have one of them, small hex, better ratchet?

[rob love]

Having been whacked in the funnybone more than once by the Ford handcrank, and now nearing the age where I don't heal as well, I can guarantee I will never use a handcrank again. If the starter doesn't work, then it will be a towrope.

[David Dunlop]

An interesting side topic here.

Does anyone know if the specifications for all Ford Crank Handles and Ratchet Bolts are the same, or were they sized slightly differently for different sized/powered engines?

The critical factor with these parts would seem to be that the central shaft of the hand crank and the diameter of its cross pin are small enough that they do not bind at all when inserted in the Ratchet Bolt by the Operator. If the fit is too snug, then Rob’s experience would be all too frequent. As soon as the engine fires, the Ratchet Nut will pull the Crank Handle away from the Operator and beat him or her with it. Not pleasant at all.

This might also be the type of part which is best not mixed with those of other manufacturers even if they look like they will work. To work best, the fit between the two should be resistance free. No big deal I suppose if one never plans to actually use the Hand Crank.

David

[Tony Smith]

I have never used a handcrank to start a Ford V8, but I do find them useful to turn the engine when setting valve clearances. Of course, there are plenty of other ways to turn an engine by hand as well.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

I use the crank for winter storage. I think better to turn it over by crank than run it and have cold/hot condensation forming, especially in the exhaust. Keeps me warm as a side benefit.

[Lynn Eades]

The dreaded "lunatic stick". There are not many other options in a carrier. I have started mine with the crank handle. A V8 is less likely to kick you than a 4 cylinder.
Btw, if you don't know, don't wrap your thumb around it, just like you don't put your thumbs inside a CMP steering wheel off road.

[Peter Duggan]

Guys,

Buttoned up the back end and was well satisfied with a good test run.

I recognized that the front end shimmy (after hitting a sharp bump) was beyond my limited skills and enlisted Gerry Foster for help solve the issue.
Went through the front end without finding any smoking guns. Gerry took a systematic and layered approach. He determined that the Lynx has a multitude of issues that on their own weren't dramatic, but they all added up to create a problem. The U bolts for the front springs were no longer tight and allowed slight movement under heavy load. Torqued properly. Slight misalignment of the front wheels. Realigned. Movement in LF wheel bearing. Inner spacer removed to be machined. Slop in the steering column due to improper fitting shims. Steering wheel removed to add set screws.
Next trial should be interesting. Thanks to Robin Craig for the pictures.
Peter

gf2.jpg gf3.jpg

[Andrew Rowe]

Hi Peter, have you had a chance to check the king pins with the shims, and also the bush that goes through the chassis for the sector shaft extension shaft, is that in good condition?,. Not looking up the book , but I think the King Pins should have a certain amount of resistance , which you can determine with a "Fish Scale" , and that will tell you how many foot pounds of pull is required to move your front hub back and forth, hence the correct preload on those King Pins ,
Cheers Andrew

[Harry Moon]

after a number of years with no issues I too had a shimmy when last driven in August. Checked things over and the only issue I could see that needed rectifying was the output bearing on the transfercase front axle output. It was noticeably loose so I took it out and replaced it. Haven't done more than a few kilometres on it so don 't know if that cured it.