Info needed: Engine Pre-Lube after storage

[rob love]

I don't consider 6 months as needing pre-lube. Use the pump handle on your fuel pump to pre-fill the carb and you will save 2 minutes of cranking.



I might pre-lube for a 6-year parked engine, and definitely would for 16 year.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks Motto and Rob...Rob....pumping the handle has no effect on fuel delivery....on pumping the handle I feel no pressure and I do not hear fuel moving/gurgling. However, the fuel pump does delivery vacuum to operate the wipers which work well.....not sure what's going on.

lesk

[rob love]

I have always wondered if that handle would be innefective if the cam was at it's highest point of the lobe. I know on mine, and many of the vehicles here at the museum, the handle saves a whole lot of cranking.

The dole primer pump would also be effective if it was hooked up, but very few of them are.

[David Herbert]

Les,
If you crank the engine with an air wrench (I assume you mean an air IMPACT wrench) you will do up the crankshaft pulley bolt way tighter than it is designed for. This is not a good idea.
On the other hand if you crank it for 2 to 3 mins with the starter and then it does start, that will very effectively pre lube all the bearings while putting very little load on them as it is taking that long for fuel to get to the carb and the engine will have oil pressure when it does start. If you keep an eye on the oil pressure light when cranking it you should see it go out quite quickly even if the engine has been stood for several years.
I agree with Rob Love that 6 months is just not a long time in this context. Don't worry about the wear on the starter, it will not noticeably shorten it's life to operate it for an extra 3 mins per year !

David

[charlie fitton]

Pull the plugs and "mist" the cylinders with something like WD40, crank like Dave says and watch the gauge or light, plugs back in and you should be good to go.

[rob love]

Originally Posted by David Herbert

Les,
If you crank the engine with an air wrench (I assume you mean an air IMPACT wrench) you will do up the crankshaft pulley bolt way tighter than it is designed for. This is not a good idea.

David

Never drive anything like a crank or even an alternator with an impact wrench. You can break off the shaft from the overtorquing. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks for the input Rob, David and Charlie....as per your combined suggestion(s) I will pull the plugs, lube each cylinder and crank with starter while watching PSI gauge....when PSI is up to 40-50 I will put the plugs back in and try for a first start.

Rob.....thanks for the warning!

Regards,

lesk

[rob love]

Are you talking about trying to get the oil pressure up to 40-50 by cranking? Not sure you will reach that and certainly not necessary. In fact, I don't think any of that is necessary but rather overkill for an engine that has been parked for less than 6 months.

[Mike Cecil]

Standard starting procedure for Leopard AS1 was to hold back the accelerator pedal and crank the engine until the oil pressure started to rise, then let go the pedal so the engine started.

But I agree with Rob about a jeep engine having been sitting for under 6 months. Nothing oily should have 'dried out' in that time, with oil retained in bearings and on journals. The long cranking time should be more than enough to raise a little oil pressure before starting anyway.

I'd think the more likely problem after 6 months would be the gunk from modern fuel left within the carbie after evaporation while in storage. That stuff sticks the needle and seat together and clogs inlets jets. It is why I have a notice in the workshop to 'start engines monthly', and that includes mowers, generator, jeeps, tractor.

Mike