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#1
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How did you form those drip rails?
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#2
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I measured all I had and got them folded up (two pieces per side) at the sheet metal shop near me. They taper in width on the lower (attached to old steel) I have the measurements if people are interested.
cheers, Ian
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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#3
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A bit of digression while I make a set and dolly for the rivet tasking. Have the materials but I have to grind a drill bit to the correct taper for the rivet head.
Repainting the cowl and some hardware & the GS toolbox. Now the doors have been re-repaired and the rust sandblasted away (again). I managed to find the RH door bolts too so they will be re-installed. Some brass hinge bushes purchased nine short years ago are not suitable as replacements so I'll source some new ones through Macs I think. Sadly the paint shop ran out of flattener for the paint so one day next weekend will be hardware paint day I guess. I found two mirror brackets in the pile. Nine years in between had caused me to forget what I had wrapped in newspaper ![]() Cheers Ian
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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#4
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Just re read this and thought I would offer this suggestion. A blacksmithing mate of mine said a good way to make a rivet dolly is to heat a grade 8 bolt red hot of the appropriate size and drive a ball bearing of the desired size into it forming a rounded cup. Drill steel, though hard, is very brittle so may fracture with disastrous results upon heavy impact as would occur in riveting. It may be worth considering anyway. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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#5
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I'll try a few ways. VMVC had an article a few years back... Technique is different but all good. Cheers, Ian
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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#6
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Well I have been busy over the last few weeks I did a guard repair to make it 'rounder' and a smooth arc.
Cutting out the old welds and adding a bit of metal to make it curve. Surprised to learn that this is over-perfection and my 'template guards are just cuts around the arch-way. Ahh well. They are at the sand blasters this week so they'll be in primer in the coming days. I have fitted the cross member to the chassis with bolts until we get some still winds and I can have a hot flame. Ron I haven't forgotten your offer.
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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#7
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Well after a few hours on Saturday I managed to remove the propellor shafts and the transfer case. As usual the bolts are seized so they snap off in the case. The locking wire was intact - all gone on the top two bolts.
Sorry not much detail but a lot going on behind the scenes. Cheers Ian.
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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#8
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.................................
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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#9
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Thanks Mike,
Hoping by FRIDAY the paint shop has a new 4 litre tin of Flattner in and I can move on. Yep A ball mill might do the job, but from others' experiences I am going to try a drill first. On another note my 6 Volt headlights arrived today. One step over the original bulbs to Sealed beams. Cheers, Ian
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Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff |
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