Info needed: correct colours for WWII Aust vehicles

[Mike Cecil]

Wartime instructions called for adding very fine sand to increase the 'matt-ness'. Is that an option?

Hard to spray I imagine, but could be brushed on. Problem is keeping the sand evenly distributed throughout the can while dipping the brush - the paint at the top will quickly change 'matt-ness' after only a very short time of no agitation.

Gina, I have to applaud your tenacity: the end result should be very satisfying for you.

Mike

[Mike K]

Talcum powder works as a flattening agent

Also fine silica powder as used by potters , the hobby shops may help out ?

[Mrs Vampire]

Hi Mike

I may try to flatten using flatting base from the refinisher shop.

I think I may try to find a paint technologist from one of the major paint companies and have a chat.
The project has moved slightly from finding the correct colours to reproducing them.

It is really hard to get the people down at the paint suppliers across the issues. It saddens me that every restoration seems to have to go through this .

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Gina Vampire

Hi Mike

I may try to flatten using flatting base from the refinisher shop.

I think I may try to find a paint technologist from one of the major paint companies and have a chat.
The project has moved slightly from finding the correct colours to reproducing them.

It is really hard to get the people down at the paint suppliers across the issues. It saddens me that every restoration seems to have to go through this .

Hi Gina,
I have been following your thread and know that it relates more to your country but the following may be of interest.
We are very lucky in the UK that there are so many paint companies who are willing to produce the various shades of paint for our restorations. The type of paint mainly used is a synthetic alkyd paint which is 2 hour quick drying of a type made for machinery use. One make I use is HMG Paint, Speedline C71. It is usually supplied as a semi-matt, which appears to have a sheen to it, but after a few weeks of curing and slight weathering it matts down very nicely. The benefit of this finish is that not being dead flat matt it does not show oil or grease spots and can easily be cleaned.
Something to explain regarding dead flat matt paints, a guy came to me quiet distraught as he had restored his jeep in the original US shade of Olive Drab, his first test drive revealed an oil leak from the transfer box that resulted in the whole of the back end of the jeep body covered in oil spots. I trying to clean it, the situation was made worse, the paint absorbed the oil. I think you will find if using a dead flat Matt that it may look good initially but on a short time of use, hand and foot marks will mar the paint as well oil and grease, etc., which once in the paint, will not come out.

When I worked in army workshops the camo paint had a slight sheen and was not what I termed "blackboard paint", which is what a dead flat matt is like.

I wanted a sample of the British SCC No.2 Brown for a restoration and was lucky to find a bracket for a regulator box with a large patch hidden from dirt and light for about 70 years, this was checked by a paint company and replicated with great results. If you cannot get a part of your tank to a paint company, ask if they might have a representative in the area who could bring a colour tester out, if you convince them there is a market for sales to other enthusiasts, they may well play ball.

regards, Richard

[Mrs Vampire]

Hi Richard. I am impressed with the amount of information available in the UK so far as british paint is concerned.

So far as the finish being smudged and knocked around I am not so sure I want perfection . Todds stuart has a variety of touch ups on it as well as being scuffed and chipped after being in use for about seven years. It looks fabulous.

So I may opt for a surface that is somewhat fragile and looks used. I like that look. I am not a big fan of pristine "hot rod" restorations....I prefer something that appears as they did when in use.

[Mrs Vampire]

Latest from Protec. I provided them with Three NOS parts.

Two in the later dark foliage green (M) and one in the earlier lighter green (J)

Protec provided me with three samples one they think may have been the green made for Bob Mosely ( I think M) the other two from my samples. The degree of flatting in their Fleet Khaki Green No 3 ( M ) was good . In the two samples mixed for me one had none and was full gloss and the other was satin.

I will flatten them both down with flatting base and have another look .

The paint they provide is similar to that brought at the hardware chain although labeled and supplied as Industrial Alkyd Enamel.

It is difficult to brush taking two coats to cover grey primer. The finished result is streaky on account of uneven distribution of the flatting agent and thin. It takes several hours to achieve touch dry on a reasonable warm day (28 deg C ).
I have still not seen anything to match the Coulthard's for sprayability, brushability and finish.

[Ian Fawbert]

Hi Gina,

Maybe try these guys. Very nice, very helpful, very used to MV restorers!

http://www.floritecoatings.com.au/

Not a big drive from you and well worth giving them a call and going to have a chat. They are an old place with a lot of experience. I've used their paint on my jeep and a lot of the guys in the AMVCS have used it too. Trevor Boyle put me onto them- seems to be all he uses for his resto's. it has worn very well on my GPW, still nice and flat (actually flattened more with age I believe), 11 years after I first started painting it and 8 years/ 6000 miles after she was registered.

I did have to use hardener, as the quickdry enamel wiped off once dry with fuel or thinners, but with hardener, nothing has touched it, even brake fluid struggles!

With all the research you've done and samples/ info you can provide, they should be able to help a lot. Price is excellent too- 4L of custom OD was around $50 2 or 3 years back. They have everything you'd need too, including undercoat and thinners and flatteners or know where to get it.

Might be easier than the big guys who, if I read right don't seem too helpful.

Cheers,
Ian.