F60L Cab 12 truck

[colin jones]

I put the door blank in the folder and did only 90deg bends as anymore than that and you would lock you're self out. I also gave it about 1-2mm all around so it wasn't too tight. I clamped it to my table and just slowly went around and bent it over. You can't bend it all at once or you will distort the sheet so just follow along and bring it flat including the curves.

[colin jones]

And that's about it apart from fitting the hinges.

[Lynn Eades]

Mr Jones, You're a versatile bugger!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Colin

Impressive, I have tried to figure out how to do that with out success. So your step by step is quit something.

The door hinges on Pat 11 & 12 seem to be a real weak point, I have always thought that they had to be a standard automotive door hinge, figured that they probably were a Model T hinge that Ford guys had a warehouse full of or that they had the tooling sitting around. I've looked through T parts but have never had a match.

Cheers phil

[Keith Webb]

Love watching someone making a job which for most of us would be either challenging or impossible look easy.

You are a true craftsman, Mr. Jones!

[Bob Carriere]

I have also search high and low for such hinges and like Phil came up empty.

Not having all the milling/press I think it can still be done albeit slowly.

The big hurdle is to get a machine shop to make me the suitable half circle die. I am sure I can duplicate the bending press with my 20 ton hydraulic press for such a short item.

I may cut the individual fingers with a metal band saw and finish slowly with a file.

On the door skins..... lucky I have only 2 doors otherwise I would have to deal with four skins ....... did you prebend the two top bends in the top section first then worked on the sides ....

How difficult was it doing the curved section.... it seems that it needs to be shrinked first when you do the first 90 degrees than stretched when you finally flatten that section down. Did you use any heat at all....?

Did you spot weld one side before doing the opposite side??

Thanks for the pictures.

Cheers

[aj.lec]

These look similar from Macs
Bit hard to say without comparing side by side


Model A Ford Front Door Hinge Set - Open Car - Roadster & Phaeton - 2 Hole Bottom Hinge - FORD





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Part #: 28-22549-1
Alt Part #: A35600AS
Price: $54.25 Set

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Fitment: 1928 thru 1930
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OR

Model A Ford Rear Door Hinge Set - Phaeton - 1928-29 Only - FORD





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Part #: 28-22643-1
Alt Part #: A36400AS
Price: $159.95 Set

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Fitment: 1928 thru 1929
See applications below for exact details.

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[Howard]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

Love watching someone making a job which for most of us would be either challenging or impossible look easy.
You are a true craftsman, Mr. Jones!

...and this is why I told Mr Jones that I hate him!

[colin jones]

Thankyou for you comments and now I know why I'm not on Howards Xmas card list
Bob, to answer your questions. To make the half circle die is very simple to make without a mill. I used two separate steel blocks about 2"x3"x1" put them together and drilled a hole at the centre where they touch. if you have a pedestal drill I would suggest to pilot drill a 1/4" hole first and then use the full size drill you need. The drill size you need is!
Pin thickness= 1/4" or 6mm or what ever you're using
Thickness of material x 2= about 14mm or 9/16
After it's drilled, pull them apart and you have 2 half circle forming dies.
Don't forget to centre punch the location before you drill the pilot hole.
Believe me bob it is that simple if your using mild steel. Don't forget you're not going into production so mild steel is fine. A general garage press is more than sufficient to bend these.
I never used any heat at all to bend any part of the doors. Cutting the individual fingers with a band saw, hacksaw, jigsaw, reciprocating saw is good if you get the required end result.
Door skins!!~
Four skins will just take you longer and probably more painfull
I used 1mm thick and just laid the door on top before I deskun it and traced around with sharp chalk. I used my 5" grinder with a very thin blade to cut the sheet including the big curve about 1/2" outside the perimeter. but I had to measure the top accurately and allow for the bend radius which is about the thickness or the sheet per bend. I pre drilled the 2 holes at the top for the window frames and then folded the 2 top bends.
If I never had a folder I would clamp 2 pieces of flatbar with the material in between and very slowly hammer over with a wide head hammer.
I used a few clamps close to where I hammer and move them frequently
I never used any heat at all and the curved section is just the same as the rest but just don't try to bend high angles all at once. On one door I did use the spot welder as that is what was done to that particular door. The other one is quite different so they were made by different suppliers.
I also use anything I have to use as bending dolly's like flat punches or pieces of round rod.
I hope this helps and you'll never learn unless you give it a turn.
On a finishing door note!
I also made the small pieces that fit and bolt to the top of the doors for the softskin windows.