Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Hi Phil, glad to.

The trolley is very stable, despite only 3 wheels. The tyres are solid, so they are not subject to any 'give' that pneumatic tyres may have when being moved around. Where possible, I tried to build in a way where the weight of the engine would actually reduce the potential for damaging stress to the welding joins. You can see that on the end with single wheel, which is the bell housing end of the trolley. The part that attaches to the engine there, is a bracket and a rectangular box that slides into the vertical box on the trolley. There is no need for any form of bolting between the engine bracket and the trolley vertical box piece. It just sits there, one inside of the other.
PC170497.jpg PC040491.jpg
I have chosen to lower the main frame, where it joins the wheels. It was done that way to lower centre of gravity, for better stability. What doesnt appear in these photos, is that I had added a reinforcement plate to the wheel brackets, at the duel wheel end. I had wanted to have additional support to overcome any problems with my less than perfect welding. So far, so good! I also have added another vertical steel tube piece to provide more strength to the cross piece that the water pumps are bolted to. Those bolts, one for each pump, are the only mechanical fastening between trolley and engine. If you look closely at my first photo of the exhaust trial fitting, you can just see one of those added tubes beneath the left water pump.

If I was to do it over again, I would retain basic shape, but make a couple of tweeks to the design. I would make the single wheel a castor wheel. Current one is fixed. It does assist in knowing exactly where it is heading when you push it, but I often have to push & pull to make a direction change easier. This is needed in my limited space. I wouldn't change the wheels I currently have. They are brilliant for travelling over concrete expansion joins, power leads,and the gravel outside the workshop. One person can move it easily. I would rethink the complex front part that the water pumps sit on. It was a lot of work, and it doesnt need to have been. I started with one way in mind, then revised the design mid stream, because I thought of a potential weakness in original design.

I would retain the single piece of tube connecting both ends. It has allowed me to have easy access from below, while retaining a fair strength. With the trike setup, uneven ground isnt a problem, and you dont get the 'one wheel off the ground' scenario over uneven terrain.

My engine trolley is just that, a trolley ONLY. It is not intended to replace a rebuilding stand. It wouldnt work in that capacity. That said, I will be installing the cam, and setting the valvetrain while engine is still on the trolley. Lower engine would be impossible to do, which is not a problem for me. I will be giving that job to a professional.

Hope this helps. These are the best photos I have, sorry!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

Thanks for the details, for years I stored extra engines on improvised blocking and they are such a pain to work around. Once I built my first engine test stand I discovered it was so much easier to move around engines that I've built 5 more to store engines on as well as use as test stands. They all have engines on them so the question is build more or build something smaller and simpler purely for storage.

Your approach seems to fit that bill, agree with you about solid wheels but one of the things I've noticed is that any of the "solid" plastic wheels will take a set after long storage of a heavy engine making it hard to roll them around later. One of my Flat head engine transmission groups exceed 900LBS. Do you think using a single swivel caster at the rear and two fix at the front would work. If you were going to attach a pull/push handle do you think it would work. How much do you think the engine weighs?

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Phil, I dont think having the two wheel end fixed would suit my needs. When I need to move the whole thing around outside on uneven ground, I dont want the most animated end of the trolley being the one wheel end. At one point, I considered having all castor wheels. Very pleased I reonsidered that idea. Removing the issue of stability on the gravel, having castor on single wheel SHOULD give better manouverability on concrete floor. Especially so in restricted space. I would have gone that way, if I didnt want to go outside with it.

My solid tyres dont feel to have flat spots. Im sure I would feel something if they had suffered thus. The engine I had basically discarded in preference for the recently acquired French block, had been sitting on that trolley for around 12 months or thereabouts. I would imagine the extent of any flat spot developing is proportionate to the weight rating of the individual wheel/tyre sets being used. Mine are rated at 300kg each. I chose tyres with a tread pattern, so they wouldnt slip around, but with the weight of an engine above them, I guess that would have been unlikely to happen anyway. Also the tyre compound is VERY dense. Sorry I cant recall whether they are considered rubber, plastic, or something else.

No idea whatsoever, with regards to engine weight, though it is something I have tried to find out! No one seems to want to give an approximation, not even the local engine rebuilding workshop. When I was still considering assembling the engine myself, I intended to buy a rebuild stand that would take 900kg (2000lbs). I figured that should cover any engine I would ever work with (unless I wanted to rebuild a Pratt & Whittney radial engine).

I cant get used to seeing engines hanging off stands, with just 4 bolts going into the bell housing. It just looks so WRONG, but everyone I have spoken to, that has done engines this way, assure me it is actually safe. Still gives me the creeps though.

[Private_collector]

After measuring a bush from a spare bracket for the front spring, I have purchased a new pair of 3/4" ID x 1" OD x 2" L bronze Oilite bushes. Total cost, including shipping from USA (of course, everything is) comes to $29.95USD.
$T2eC16JHJG8FGtFtU8WSBR3cQsWVOw~~60_57.jpg
They still have more, if anyone needs them. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181173697...84.m1497.l2649

On a different topic, this is my new car.
20130924_064804.jpg
It was owned by my Brother, and has been given to me.
Moderately smaller than I am used to, but very economical, and quite nice to drive.
My challenge now is to keep it in the same condition my Brother maintained it in.

[Lionelgee]

No idea whatsoever, with regards to engine weight, though it is something I have tried to find out! No one seems to want to give an approximation, not even the local engine rebuilding workshop. When I was still considering assembling the engine myself, I intended to buy a rebuild stand that would take 900kg (2000lbs). I figured that should cover any engine I would ever work with (unless I wanted to rebuild a Pratt & Whittney radial engine).


G'day Tony,

No not a research question challenge - I just could not resist...

According to http://www.35pickup.com/mulligan/weight.txt the weight of a Ford V8 Flathead is

Engine Weight/Size FYI

***********************
version 97.01.04
Copyright Dave Williams
dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
weight

Engine pounds ref. comments
Ford flathead V8 525 (124) 1932 model, integral b'hsg, iron heads
Ford flathead V8 569 (1) ('53 239 CID)

Reference (124) is Petersen's Complete Book of Ford, 3rd Edition, 1973
While Reference (1) Handbook of Engine Swapping, John Thawley, 1960

Accessed 29th of September 2013

So Tony - there you go now you know about the engine weight

P.S. Being naturally dubious about internet sources I did some more digging - I have already corrected the spelling of the Author's name for Reference (124) and found that there could be an error in reference (1) The Handbook of Engine Swapping 1960 could either be one of two publications

Handbook of Engine Swapping Pamphlet – January 1, 1960
by Floyd Clymer (Author)
Pamphlet: 103 pages
Publisher: Clymer Publications; 1st edition (1960)

Or going by the name cited as Reference (1) "John Thawley" it could be the right author and the wrong publication name and the incorrect year of publishing...

Practical Engine Swapping [Paperback]
John Thawley (Editor)
Publisher: Steve Smith Autosports; Second Edition edition (June 1976)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0936834110
ISBN-13: 978-0936834115

I hope this clears things up - teehee! I have contacted the author who wrote the list for a clarification of what reference (124) actually is. I will let you know if I hear back from them.


Kind Regards
Lionel

[Private_collector]

Thanks Lionel! That's a fair bit less than I thought it would be. Even if that were kgs, I wouldn't have doubted it. That probably explains why my home made engine trolley hasn't collapsed yet! Also, I have been able to lift one end of the engine trolley, and should have realised that it couldn't be too heavy if I could do that. Well, when I say 'lift' I mean take enough weight off the tyre to drag it sideways.

I painted the front spring to axle attaching hardware this morning. Then started putting the front springs back on. The rear shackle will have to come off again when the new bushes arrive. The above things brought me to about 1300hrs, so I started looking for something else to do, so I decided to try reinstalling the front axle to the chassis.

Had a few things to move around before I had any chance of doing the reassembly inside the workshop.
chassis moved.jpg
Engine cranes, eh! Is there anything they cannot do? Just pull the chassis to one side and wheel the front axle around to where the assembly will be done.
Chassis moved 1.jpg
Then a matter of aligning the two parts in 3 dimensions. How hard could that be!?!? One thing I REALLY like about my paint choice, it dries extremely fast, especially in a Queensland heatwave.
Chasssis moved 2.jpg
A few turns of the spanner/s, and the mandatory scarred knuckles later, and I now have a rolling chassis!!!! Even put the steering box on, but it was after I had taken these photos. Due to a persistent oil leak in the box, I removed the oil and replaced it with a semi-grease type lube that is especially for steering boxes that just won't seal completely.
Front end installed 1.jpg
Nice straight lines too. Mind you, I had so many of the cross members off that it really couldn't be out now.
Chassis straight.jpg

[Private_collector]

Does anybody know of a source for the correct rubber grease seals that go on both ends of the pitman arm?
20130930_173742.jpg
I would also like to hear from anyone who has one of these front shock absorber to axle rods for sale. I dont care if they are used, so long as good useable condition.
20130930_173845.jpg
And finally, I have not been able to locate a replacement Ford steering wheel nut. My original one had to be split in two to get it off, and I dont think I can glue it back together again! Any leads on where to buy one of these would be gratefully accepted. For that matter, if you are able to tell me nut size and TPI, I can start the local bolt looking for one.

Thanks very much,

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Does anybody know of a source for the correct rubber grease seals that go on both ends of the pitman arm?
Attachment 60724
I would also like to hear from anyone who has one of these front shock absorber to axle rods for sale. I dont care if they are used, so long as good useable condition.
Attachment 60725
And finally, I have not been able to locate a replacement Ford steering wheel nut. My original one had to be split in two to get it off, and I dont think I can glue it back together again! Any leads on where to buy one of these would be gratefully accepted. For that matter, if you are able to tell me nut size and TPI, I can start the local bolt looking for one.

Thanks very much,

Hi Tony,

Have a couple of those pitman arm rubbers. They are NOS which makes them pretty old rubber but they seem usable. Have you got the steel caps they sit in?
Will check out junk box. May have a rough steering wheel nut for you to get you out of trouble until a better one comes along.
Will stick these items in a jiffy bag to you.
P.S. Haven't restarted the Blitz project yet. The lathe project has dominated what free time I've had but it's almost done so soon back into the truck.

Cheers,

Jacques