A little light entertainment: 1939 Ford 1 ton Utility restoration

[jack neville]

After completing the bulk of the cab I gave it a coat of Fishoil and let it dry out for a month. Then a coat of red oxide primer. The timber framework was primed and glued and screwed and fitted to the rear of the cab. I stripped the side panels and patched the bottom rusty sections using the spot welder. These panels were then welded back in place and the rear ends nailed to the timber work. Once the side panels are in place the inside cover panels at the top of the sides are then welded together over the timber. This means that you need a spray bottle to stop the timber catching fire as you weld it. I know it sounds weird, welding sheet metal over timber. As I said earlier, these roadster cabs are a unique Australian pattern and appear to be a blend of the modern (40's modern) sheet metal work with the old coach building skills, even though the cabs were built in the Geelong Ford factory during the early war years. The weirdest bit is yet to come.

[jack neville]

The rear panel fits around the timber frame and is nailed across the top and across the bottom. The sides are attached to the frame by sliding up over a 25mm strip of metal that is nailed along the side timbers. To make this panel, the top section is prefolded over wit a 20mm edge. The bottom areas are similarly folded over to fit the bottom timbers. A 12mm edge is folded over on the curved sides. Once the side strip is nailed in place the whole panel is simply slipped up from the bottom, with the sides engaging the metal strip and locking the sides into place. The fact that the top edge is already folded over means it gets really tight when almost all the way in place. I greased the sides to assist in putting the panel into place. There are not too many of these vehicles that have been restored and I wonder has anyone had to make and fit a rear panel like this since the early1940's when these vehicles were last produced. And I wonder why the hell did they not just screw the bloody thing on. Oh and once in place and the top and bottom nails are put in, guess what. You weld the top corners to the side panels!!!! Then you lead wipe the corner joins for a nice finish!!!

[gordon]

I'd think Henry would be having Kittens at the man hours and processes for that

[Ian Mastin]

G'day Jack,

Looking great mate keep up the great work ? are you going to try your hand at lead filling and wipeing.



Cheers
Ian

[jack neville]

Thanks ian,

A thin wipe of body filler will do the job just fine. Carefully welded and ground down there is hardly need for any lead in these areas anyway. These cabs really are an unnecessarily complicated piece of work. No doubt if they were produced in greater numbers they would have been designed to be produced far more efficiently. It may also be a reflection on the Australian automotive industry at the time.

[jack neville]

Back panel finally installed and welded up.

[jack neville]

One of the weaknesses of these cabs is the square shape of the rear section. No doubt years of neglect in the open air weakens the timber and screws but the design itself is flawed. There is no strength in the B pillar so every time you shut the door you are weakening the rear section. I have seen some interesting re-enforcing and bracing of these cabs but I designed mine to be a little more discreet. On top of the rear panel is a timber strip for fixing the canvas canopy to (tacked on). I welded up a 30mm x 5mm steel strip to place under the wood and made my timber strip 5mm thinner. This strengthens the corners without being obvious. A wipe of mastic helps hide the steel. Once painted and with canvas in place it is not apparent.