F60L Recent pics

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

..... I had to rebuild the frame portion of my door bottoms......still need to do the skin.

Been afraid to start the skin but your pics are an inspiration.

Now tell me what gauge did you finally use...Gauge of metric is fine...... you went thicker/heavier I have been thinking of going lighter to ease the folding over process of the skin.....

How did you finally weld the skin...... I have a spot welder but must go through 3 thicknesses of steel..... or drill and plug with the jig welder.

Bob

Used one millimeter sheet Bob. Folding it was OK actually. In hind site I would have cut the sheet a fraction wider than the template. This would be to allow more metal to fold over.

Folding the heavier gauge steel with a shifter and finishing off with a hammer is ok providing you do small bends all the way along.

I would have also done the two folds at the top of the door a bit differently. To get a sharper folded edge.

But honestly this is just clutching at straws. There is no need to be that fussy.

Im going to weld the top to the frame. Will post results

Just have some good clamps, a big heavy piece of flat steel X 2 and get stuck in.

[Ganmain Tony]

Nothing like an event like Corowa to get you motivated.

Finally finished the passenger door. Pleased with overall result but like any project there are things that aint quite right. There are also a couple more things I have to finish... but good enough for an outing.

Bottom hinge had to be carefully bent in a vice prior to painting. Trial fit of the door revealed bottom of door fouling on floor as it shut.

Dove tails purchased from Macs (Via TCR Melbourne). Exactly the same as the old ones.

Original clips off this door but you can get these from Macs as well. Same with the canvas rod holders. Although they do not look exactly the same.

Door handle as close as I could get. Same shape but different groove along the handle.

[Ganmain Tony]

Found an old check strap off another Cab 12. Looks very original but I have no way of knowing if it is..

Door recess was a challenge but Max Hedges loaned me an old one to work off.

Phil and Bob.. what'd you guys do here?

Went to a furniture place and the bloke there was very helpful. He said the fasteners of the rubber were known as a Biflicated (Spelt correctly?) rivet and that I should go an see a saddler.

Well I did and this is what he gave me. Again, not exact but very close.

I also got a bridge plate from Wayne Henderson at Corowa. Pretty sure its off an AACO, but after cleaning it up and a coat of yellow kill rust, who cares?

Note carefully applied No.7. Can anyone see how that was done?

[lynx42]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Note carefully applied No.7. Can anyone see how that was done?

Tony, looks like electrical tape to me.

Thanks for coming to Corowa.

regards Rick.

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by lynx42

Tony, looks like electrical tape to me.

Thanks for coming to Corowa.

regards Rick.

Spot on Rick,

I'm not as good at doing dodgey work as I thought...

[Alex van de Wetering]

Excellent work Tony!

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

First of all our Chev trucks have a inner skin on the doors that hides many sore spots.

Mac does have the exact door handle with the long grooves....also has very close to original inner handles.

I used the Vee shape dovetails from Mac as mine where badly worn off. The repro do look the part even if the blocks are black plastic.

Hinges are always a problem...... the overall cab integrity is questionable at best...... the whole door alignment can be ruined by stertching the back of the cab front or back. Later modification were added on the cab 12 by having a 1/2 inch steel plate bolted under the floor plate corner of the cab... also stop straps added to keep the door from hitting the cargo box.

There are many parade ground pictures of cab 11 in Canada with the driver's door fully open back against the fuel tank/cargo box...... although not visible I would not be surprised to learned they were actually tied back for easy in and out.

Now the lock stricker.... most of the ones I have have been extended by welding or even worst brazing...... mine will need to be resurfaced - rebuilt but I am waiting to see how much is needed. Simialrly I have hinges staht are bent everywhich way...... that will all be the custom adjustment that will be needed to match the oddity of my cab...... it is almost as if each door set is custom made to fit one particular truck.

To date I have not been able to source replacement hinges for the cab 11/12 except for some very similar Model T solid brass for $300 + US bucks.... H**l I did not pay that much for the whole truck.

On the cab alignment......I have sinned and added the cab 12 floor plates reinforcements as they just bolt right up and will add some metal strips reinforcements to the wooden roof structure for greater rigidity ...... and make sure the tube/pipe of the windshield is properly mig welded with internal L brackets for rigidity. Then drive it on a rough road and shake it all loose hihihi.....

...and if the doors do not fit properly I will drive it with the doors partly opne using the big original shed door hook and eyelet devices.... now we finally know what they were for....all tis time I thougfh they were for ventilation...

Bob
........... very nice job by the way....

[Ganmain Tony]

I didnt quite get right was the striker. I stripped the lock and it looked dreadful..

I could not believe the difference a sand blast made. OK the rivet and striker runner inside the lock were worn but that was easily fixed.

One thing I had to do was build up the end of the striker with weld. Will probably to add another 1/2 an inch more because of the flex in the Cab.

Youve only got lean on the B pillar of the Cab and the ruddy door swings open.

Got in the truck to got to Corowa, started it, put it into reverse, didnt even let the clutch out and the door swung open .

Never mind, cable tie for the moment and/or the air con position rod was implemented for Corowa.

Still have to do the inner door handle.

Interesting to note this door has the screw holes for an entire inner skin.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Note carefully applied No.7. Can anyone see how that was done?

Nice job on the 7 Tony, although I'd like to see you do 6 and 9 for the gun tractor!

I may look for suitably sized adhesive numbers, I once bought some large ones from a motorbike shop for ride days at Phillip Island. Which reminds me - maybe we could hold a CMP day there, with some good old Aussie Ford/GM rivalry!

[Ganmain Tony]

Thanks Bob, Keith and Tony for the input. This is a tricky one...more photos of that apron would be greatly appreciated if anyone has any.

Went up to Max's to deliver some very nice tyres. Took some photo's of the two 12 Cabs Max has got but we are none the wiser...other than to support Keith and Bob in so far as the curve appears to be much greater on an apron Max intends to use for his 2WD 12 cab. (Engine sounds awesome by the way)

The apron on the F60L of Max's has the same issue that mine has.

I did however find a gem that I will make a copy of and return to Max. Although as I was leaving there seemed to be a change of heart from the owner.

Something I said???