Mb jeep tranfer case oil seal

[rob love]

Ever hear the old joke about the guy who decided to swim across the Pacific ocean. He got 3/4 the way across, got tired, so he swam back.

I would suggest that if you are going to go to the trouble of removing the driveshaft, the cotter pin, the nut and washer, you go the remainder of the way and remove the flange and replace the seal. Since you are talking about an output seal, once the flange is off, you should be able to pry the seal out with a seal puller or hook type slide hammer.

There is a seal puller pry bar that is relatively inexpensive, and achieves great success. An example would be the snap on YA-105, but there are cheaper versions of this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-S...item19cd12ee7c

On re-assembly, put the RTV (stands for room temperature vulcanizing, which is automotive silicone) around the shaft, let it "skin" for a bit, then install the washer and nut, effectively spreading the RTV to fill the cavity between the shaft, the flange and the washer.

In an ideal world you would use a flange holding tool so you could torque the nut on fully. But since most guys don't have justification to buy all the special use tools, you can likely get away with an impact gun or a power bar with the truck in gear and the park brake applied.

[Little Jo]

Hi Rob, Jason, Alex and Lynn

Thank you all for your support and idea's with my forthcoming work on my transfer case. Yes, I agree if you so far than go all the way and do the job, properly the first time thereby elliminating any further ptoblems.

Cheers

Tony

[motto]

A little trick I've used in past for cracking the flange nuts on gearboxes or t'fer cases if you don't have a rattle gun is as follows:- After removing the split pin put a socket and bar on the nut with a handle long enough to contact the floor or a beefy item of structure on the vehicle. You can then instal your crank handle and select the appropriate gear i.e. first or reverse and give a heave on the crank handle.

This can save wrestling with the bar underneath the truck and possibly injuring yourself. The reduction through the gearbox makes for sufficient torque to be applied with ease. By the same token, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN if you use the same method to do up the nut.

Just remember that the T'fer case on an AWD vehicle drives more than one axle and you may have to jack up a wheel to allow the drive line to turn over.

David

[Little Jo]

Hi Dave

Thanks mate for the sugestion, boy I am really chuffed with the help I am receiving. It just goes to show what a great bunch of people MLU members are. Thanks Guys,

Cheers

Tony

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by rob love

Ever hear the old joke about the guy who decided to swim across the Pacific ocean. He got 3/4 the way across, got tired, so he swam back.

I would suggest that if you are going to go to the trouble of removing the driveshaft, the cotter pin, the nut and washer, you go the remainder of the way and remove the flange and replace the seal. Since you are talking about an output seal, once the flange is off, you should be able to pry the seal out with a seal puller or hook type slide hammer.

There is a seal puller pry bar that is relatively inexpensive, and achieves great success. An example would be the snap on YA-105, but there are cheaper versions of this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-S...item19cd12ee7c

On re-assembly, put the RTV (stands for room temperature vulcanizing, which is automotive silicone) around the shaft, let it "skin" for a bit, then install the washer and nut, effectively spreading the RTV to fill the cavity between the shaft, the flange and the washer.

In an ideal world you would use a flange holding tool so you could torque the nut on fully. But since most guys don't have justification to buy all the special use tools, you can likely get away with an impact gun or a power bar with the truck in gear and the park brake applied.

Hi Rob

I took your advise and purchased a "Seal Puller Pry Bar" as the one on your eBay link. I checked on Amazon and located them at a much cheaper price so I ordered one. It usually takes about a week to get stuff delivered to my home in Australia from the USA. Details of the product below and picture attached. This should make removing the troublesome seal much easier. Thanks again for the heads up.

Powerbuilt 648494 Seal Puller
by Powerbuilt
Be the first to review this item | Like (0)
Price: $7.26 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details
In Stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.

Cheers

Tony

[rob love]

Hopefully it works out for you...do let us know.

A few years ago the chinese copies of the North American tools were absolute crap. A tool like the one pictured would bend on even the easy to remove seals. But today, there are few North American companies that do not have their stuff made off shore (China) and generally the tools are of reasonable quality.

That said, my seal puller is made in USA Snap On. It has been subject to some real abuse and has never let me down.