Mb jeep tranfer case oil seal

[Little Jo]

Jason - Jordon

Thanks guys, feeling ready to tackle the problem now we are all working from the same page. I will have another look at G503 as well.

Cheers

Tony

[Col Tigwell]

When I worked for Kenworth we used speedi sleeves every location we could.

If the sleeve goes on smoothly then the shaft itself is ok. If there is a bubble after you have fitted the sleeve then the shaft either has a high spot or the shaft is out of limits so of course the shaft will have to be replaced

Regards

Col

[jason meade]

Just a reminder a speedysleve will not work on a splinded shaft...Just saying its the shatt in tonys picture from the first post and is number 12 the smooth spot on the shaft is where the skf bearing runs,and locks the shaft into the front case. Again if the shaft is bad replace it with a new one, they are cheep, Output clutch shaft part number A-975...20.00 cdn, seal kit 22.00 cdn
42.00 bucks, six pack, and 1 hour= happiness with a buzz.

[rob love]

On an output flange located on a splined shaft, it is just as possible that the leak is through the splines and then through the washer and nut, as it is the flange. Later setups of this type included a splined rubber gasket that went under the washer. A bit of RTV under the washer (items 27 or 36) will usually do the job as well.

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by rob love

On an output flange located on a splined shaft, it is just as possible that the leak is through the splines and then through the washer and nut, as it is the flange. Later setups of this type included a splined rubber gasket that went under the washer. A bit of RTV under the washer (items 27 or 36) will usually do the job as well.

Hi Rob

Thanks mate for the suggestion. I looked at numbers 27 and 36 on the exploded Transfer Case Diagram and note they are the Companion Flange Nut Washer before the Companion Flange Nut and cotter pin. I take it RTV is some type of silicone sealant I could smear on the back of the washer before securing with the Companion Flange Nut and Cotter Pin. I can try that first and see if the sealant works, it may solve the problem. I used some Blue RTV Gasget maker on the Transfer Case cover before the gasget and works well. Do you suggest I try this first before tackling the difficult Oil Seal removal.?? It would certainly save me a sh#t load of frustration.

I am very grateful for all the support and suggestions from fellow MLU members and I have learned so much, which is so good seeing I had never tackled anything mechanical before taking on my Jeep restoration project.

Cheers

Tony

[rob love]

Ever hear the old joke about the guy who decided to swim across the Pacific ocean. He got 3/4 the way across, got tired, so he swam back.

I would suggest that if you are going to go to the trouble of removing the driveshaft, the cotter pin, the nut and washer, you go the remainder of the way and remove the flange and replace the seal. Since you are talking about an output seal, once the flange is off, you should be able to pry the seal out with a seal puller or hook type slide hammer.

There is a seal puller pry bar that is relatively inexpensive, and achieves great success. An example would be the snap on YA-105, but there are cheaper versions of this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-S...item19cd12ee7c

On re-assembly, put the RTV (stands for room temperature vulcanizing, which is automotive silicone) around the shaft, let it "skin" for a bit, then install the washer and nut, effectively spreading the RTV to fill the cavity between the shaft, the flange and the washer.

In an ideal world you would use a flange holding tool so you could torque the nut on fully. But since most guys don't have justification to buy all the special use tools, you can likely get away with an impact gun or a power bar with the truck in gear and the park brake applied.

[Little Jo]

Hi Rob, Jason, Alex and Lynn

Thank you all for your support and idea's with my forthcoming work on my transfer case. Yes, I agree if you so far than go all the way and do the job, properly the first time thereby elliminating any further ptoblems.

Cheers

Tony

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by rob love

Ever hear the old joke about the guy who decided to swim across the Pacific ocean. He got 3/4 the way across, got tired, so he swam back.

I would suggest that if you are going to go to the trouble of removing the driveshaft, the cotter pin, the nut and washer, you go the remainder of the way and remove the flange and replace the seal. Since you are talking about an output seal, once the flange is off, you should be able to pry the seal out with a seal puller or hook type slide hammer.

There is a seal puller pry bar that is relatively inexpensive, and achieves great success. An example would be the snap on YA-105, but there are cheaper versions of this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-S...item19cd12ee7c

On re-assembly, put the RTV (stands for room temperature vulcanizing, which is automotive silicone) around the shaft, let it "skin" for a bit, then install the washer and nut, effectively spreading the RTV to fill the cavity between the shaft, the flange and the washer.

In an ideal world you would use a flange holding tool so you could torque the nut on fully. But since most guys don't have justification to buy all the special use tools, you can likely get away with an impact gun or a power bar with the truck in gear and the park brake applied.

Hi Rob

I took your advise and purchased a "Seal Puller Pry Bar" as the one on your eBay link. I checked on Amazon and located them at a much cheaper price so I ordered one. It usually takes about a week to get stuff delivered to my home in Australia from the USA. Details of the product below and picture attached. This should make removing the troublesome seal much easier. Thanks again for the heads up.

Powerbuilt 648494 Seal Puller
by Powerbuilt
Be the first to review this item | Like (0)
Price: $7.26 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details
In Stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.

Cheers

Tony