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  #1  
Old 25-01-12, 19:45
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Default Different strokes..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn Eades View Post
Its a selector shaft seal.
Thanks Lynn..
Sounded like a yoke shaft seal..before it was idented.,..
I noticed that there was some oil leaking from the Forward Counter Shaft of the Transfer Case on my 1942 MB Willys Jeep.
Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 25-01-12, 20:51
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jason meade jason meade is offline
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Opps I was looking at the output seal...My mistake.
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  #3  
Old 26-01-12, 00:23
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Default Pesky oil seal

Hi Jason - Alex - Lynn

Thanks guys for the input, very interesting following your comments and I apologise for using incorrect terminology, ie: "Counter Shaft'. I can see one must be more acturate when seeking advice. As a novice in these things, my confidence is growing with the good advice. Thanks guys.

Cheers

Tony
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Old 26-01-12, 01:11
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jason meade jason meade is offline
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Hey Tony With your picture in your first post, was it 19 or 30 that oil is leaking from? Because if its parked and oil is leaking from 19 with out running, you may want to drain about 6 liters of oil out of it...your oil level shouldent be that high, if it is then you have bigger problems as oil is migrating from the t-84 wich it shouldent.
Jason
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  #5  
Old 26-01-12, 02:26
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Little Jo Little Jo is offline
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Default "oops"

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason meade View Post
Hey Tony With your picture in your first post, was it 19 or 30 that oil is leaking from? Because if its parked and oil is leaking from 19 with out running, you may want to drain about 6 liters of oil out of it...your oil level shouldent be that high, if it is then you have bigger problems as oil is migrating from the t-84 wich it shouldent.
Jason
Hi Jason

Good call mate. I closely rechecked the TRANSFER CASE EXPLODED VIEW and admit I made a big time B#lls Up.. Lets start again at the beginning. The oil Seal is actually "30" not "19"- I did not follow the arrow. I have replaced "42" Output Shaft Oil Seal without experiencing any problems or having to use a screwdriver/chisle and hammer to hit it. But it is "30" that is turned out to be a real B##tch to remove, hence my request for advice.

I APOLOGISE TO YOU JASON -ALEX and LYNN FOR WASTING YOUR TIME WITH IN CORRECTLY RESEARCHED INFORMATION.

Cheers

Tony
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  #6  
Old 26-01-12, 05:28
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jason meade jason meade is offline
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Tony, Dont worry about the small stuff Buddy...Thats the one i thought you were having problems with, then this afternoon Alex said something about a speedysleve....and i wondered all afternoon about how you were going to fix that with a speedysleve...lol
No worrys, Just follow what i said earlyer and you will not have any problems..I have rebuilt several splicer units with the front bearing cap off you can get to it from the other side, if not use a small flat screw driver and start digging er out, but remember when the seal is out make sure there is nothing else in the hole.
I have found metal spacers and gasket spacers between the seal and the cast face.
Good luck
Jason
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  #7  
Old 26-01-12, 05:41
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Default

Over on the G503 forum there is a ton of info about this very same problem. Might be worth doing some checking there too if you haven't already.
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