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Old 31-03-13, 10:38
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler View Post
Thanks very much Tony, that's exactly the kind of info I was seeking and couldn't get from paint companies! Most of them recommended acrylic but I couldn't get a satisfactory explanation as to why.
I would suspect the recommendation to acrylic has something to do with it being by far the easiest to prep for and to apply. Also, you can rub it back and spray over again within several hours, if not happy with the result. Acrylic paints have a natural tendency to be a lower sheen finish 'off the gun'. A desirable quality with MV applications. Flattening base significantly lowers the sheen with smaller volume required to do so compared with other paint types. Just be aware that all acrylics are more susceptable to water infultration, as opposed to poly or enamel (with similar flat base in them). And of course, you dont need a spray booth to apply. Its less likely to try and kill you if not wearing an ideal respirator. For the poly paints, we always used a spray hood type which had positive air pressure. Not an easy thing to become acdustomed to wearing, and compressor air STINKS too, take my word for it!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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