Mb jeep tranfer case oil seal

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by rob love

Ever hear the old joke about the guy who decided to swim across the Pacific ocean. He got 3/4 the way across, got tired, so he swam back.

I would suggest that if you are going to go to the trouble of removing the driveshaft, the cotter pin, the nut and washer, you go the remainder of the way and remove the flange and replace the seal. Since you are talking about an output seal, once the flange is off, you should be able to pry the seal out with a seal puller or hook type slide hammer.

There is a seal puller pry bar that is relatively inexpensive, and achieves great success. An example would be the snap on YA-105, but there are cheaper versions of this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Point-S...item19cd12ee7c

On re-assembly, put the RTV (stands for room temperature vulcanizing, which is automotive silicone) around the shaft, let it "skin" for a bit, then install the washer and nut, effectively spreading the RTV to fill the cavity between the shaft, the flange and the washer.

In an ideal world you would use a flange holding tool so you could torque the nut on fully. But since most guys don't have justification to buy all the special use tools, you can likely get away with an impact gun or a power bar with the truck in gear and the park brake applied.

Hi Rob

I took your advise and purchased a "Seal Puller Pry Bar" as the one on your eBay link. I checked on Amazon and located them at a much cheaper price so I ordered one. It usually takes about a week to get stuff delivered to my home in Australia from the USA. Details of the product below and picture attached. This should make removing the troublesome seal much easier. Thanks again for the heads up.

Powerbuilt 648494 Seal Puller
by Powerbuilt
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Price: $7.26 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details
In Stock.
Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.

Cheers

Tony