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Bearing lubrication: re-packing the hub?
I am in the process of taking off the rear hubs of my F15A to change the wheel brake cylinders, relubricate the bearings and replace the seal.
According to the MB-F1 maintenance manual the bearing assemblies should be cleaned and repacked with wheel bearing lubricant every 5,000 miles. But under the "Front Wheel Bearing Lubrication" paragraph the manual states: "Do not pack the hub between the inner and outer bearing assemblies with grease as this excessive lubrication would result in the grease working out into the brake drums and onto the linings". Under Rear Wheel Bearing Lubrication no recommendation is made. There was grease present in the rear hubs, very thick and dark. I thought it was old grease, but a friend of mine said it could have been a grease especially for that purpose. What would you advise to do? Follow the manual on the front hubs, and repack the rear hubs with regular wheel bearing grease between the bearings? Thanks! Hanno
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#2
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Hanno..
This is true..The heat build up will be excessive if you over grease the hubs and then it will come out all over and in extreme cases bulge out the complete seal.. I personally use aircraft wheel bearing grease..pack it once and it is done for life.. You only put on 5000 KM max in a year on a CMP unless it is a daily driver.. I used a Texaco Wheel bearing grease for aircraft but all the company's make it..It is still out in the shed and I can't remember the number but here is a great Shell grease. You may pay a few extra bucks but you will only pack them once in your lifetime.. Especially good if you are Fording water areas. Enjoy.. Quote:
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
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When repacking a clean wheel hub
Hi Hanno & Alex
Good question and point about repacking the front steer drive ball and hub. When I'm working with a clean one for a complete repack I go with the amount listed in the manual or drivers hand book which for C60S - C60L as being 4.5 lbs of wheel bearing grease (listed in capacities section) while in the Handbook it says 2.5 lbs each. So much for clarity. Now as to over greasing my long term driving experience with my HUP is that the outer grease seal is stronger than the axle side so that if too much grease is pushed in over time it goes in the axle tube and just sits there. I add 5-10 squirts of wheel bearing grease into the center of the ball each spring. See http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Tools.html about half way down the page for how. This can be done through the plug hole on the ball. I like this method of put a little new grease in each year because it gets the new grease into the center of the steering balls. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#4
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Grease does not flow around like oil. You pack the bearings with grease, but in the cavities and on the spindles, you only have to put enough grease to prevent surface rusting from any condensate that might form. In other words, just smear a thin coat on the surfaces. There is no reason to fill the cavities with great globs of grease. While grease will not flow like oil, it will spin centrifugally. As a result, overpacking can result in blown wheel seals, and contamination of the brakes. The heat will not transfer through grease, and it can turn to a liquid.
I have seen some bad results from certain aircraft lubricants. A plane really only does short distances at high speeds, so that is not really relevant to a CMP. My own recommendation is to use a good quality automotive synthetic grease. They are usually very temperature stable (important to those of us on the prairies) and are good from -50° to somewhere in the 200°C range. In the military, we used to use a GAA (grease automotive artillery) which was very old spec grease. Around 1990 we went to a synthetic mil spec (MIL-PRF-10924) grease which totally changed my mind re military grease. It strongly resists mixture with water (including salt water), does not turn rock hard in the winter, and does not leak all over the place on a hot day. At the Shilo museum, that is the only grease I am currently using, which is especially important on a vehicle that may not be re-opened for another 20 years. I just recently had to replace some wheel cylinders on a chev 15cwt that I had rebuilt back in 1996. The bearings and seals were still in perfect condition, and I did not even have to touch them other than to re-adjust the rears on re-assembly. |
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