#1
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Chev HUP Help please
Does anyone have HUP/HUW pics or a HUP handy to checkout a body skin detail for me? I apparently didn't take sufficient notes when I took the rotten skin off mine.
What I need is detail for the cut outs in the ¾” bends where the lower panel folds around the vertical body frame at the rear side of the LH body door and again at the left side of the rear body door (they should be the same). The cut outs are to allow for the door latch and door aligning tongue. Both those bits are on my body frame so location is not a problem. I only need to know how big the cut outs are. The areas of interest are shown in red on the attached pics. |
#2
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Sorry no dimensions but this is from an original example and will give you some idea.
Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#3
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Quote:
Thank you!! |
#4
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No problem, glad that I could help.
Jon
__________________
1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#5
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How are you welding the panels
Hi Bruce
How are you welding panels in position? Spot or plug weld? If you are spot welding the problem I had get good welds of new sheet metal to the rusted and pitted angle iron frame was getting a good contact and hence good consistent welds. Cleaning up the angle iron at all the way along and treating it so that it will not start rusting again was my concern. Couple of thoughts to duplicate the original welding.
Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#6
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Thanks for that Phil, it has been a worry. I may augment the spot welds with welds to the top and inside where they can't be seen. I used a sharpy marker to mark the channels on the inside face of the new skin and will use that to match the spot weld spacing on still visible on the channel. With that marked I can drill 1/4" holes for my 'spot welds'. In most places I think I can get a c-clamp (two would be better, one on each side) very close to the spot weld location to make sure I have close contact between the metal surfaces. I've considered 1/8" pop rivets if necessary to hold things together then removing them and patching the holes. I share your concern about having as much rust proof coating between the body channels and the skin as possible.
What's causing me a little bit of grief is I chose to keep the two upper rear panels where they go around the back corners. I'm having to slide the lower panel under the lip which I'm sure wasn't how they did it in 1944. Quote:
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#7
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Weld through primer
Hi Bruce
Had to go out to the shop to get the name of the best weld primer I've found seems to work best for both mig and pinch/spot weld. SEM 40783 Copperweld As to sliding lower panel under upper, I use several ratchet straps to pull it tight to the body, and several more to pull it up under the upper lip. Lot of photos of restoring my HUP on my site, quite a few large files at higher resolution at http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...Y%20PHOTOS.htm only problem the page takes for ever to load its one of those start it down loading then go get a cup of coffee. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 22-07-18 at 16:16. Reason: Add info |
#8
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Bruce,
I hope that these are ok. Jon
__________________
1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#9
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Just one confirmation: is the entire height of the bracket 23-1/4" from the bottom of the bumper to the very top? If so it seems to match the 15cwt one (pic attached), the only difference being the bolt spacing on the bottom is different to allow for the thinner 5" HUP bumper.
Also, thanks to your door latch pic I was able to finish my HUW lower skin panels. Truly a job of measure twice, three or even four times to make sure you cut only once. If anybody needs to know, the steel size is 18 ga. 76-1/4" by 30-1/2" (overall) with a corner radius of 5" and 3/4" I.D. bends front and rear. |
#10
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That's correct Bruce, that's the total height.
The panelling looks good, nice to see the vehicle coming together. Jon
__________________
1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#11
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Looks great but get that body frame sandblasted.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#12
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Hi Bruce,
...take this photo of the LH side of my HUW by completing the help sent to you by Jonathan..
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1943 CHEV C8A HUW (under restoration). 1943 FORD F15 cab13 (under restoration). 1940 BSA M20 1940 NORTON 16H (project waiting) |
#13
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Funny guy. My sandblaster said he wouldn't do it when it was a humid +40 Celsius. I had it out for him when it was a mere 30C and he still wanted cooler. Snowflake.
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#14
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Quote:
How is your HUW coming? Its previous owner was very helpful in sending me drawings and photographs. It is a very complete and original truck, you're lucky to have it. While I am getting all my questions answered, there is one small thing you could check for me. Can you tell me or send a pic of the rear dome light that is on the inside of the roof above the rear door. My roof in that area is so bad I can't make out where it was mounted. I have a pic of an early HUW (maybe the pilot model) that had the rear lamp on the right side wall behind the bin (and to the right of the back door instead of above it). I think they moved it because in that location it probably didn't give off much light. |
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