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#1
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Chev HUP Help please
Does anyone have HUP/HUW pics or a HUP handy to checkout a body skin detail for me? I apparently didn't take sufficient notes when I took the rotten skin off mine.
What I need is detail for the cut outs in the ¾” bends where the lower panel folds around the vertical body frame at the rear side of the LH body door and again at the left side of the rear body door (they should be the same). The cut outs are to allow for the door latch and door aligning tongue. Both those bits are on my body frame so location is not a problem. I only need to know how big the cut outs are. The areas of interest are shown in red on the attached pics. |
#2
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Sorry no dimensions but this is from an original example and will give you some idea.
Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#3
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Quote:
Thank you!! |
#4
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No problem, glad that I could help.
Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#5
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How are you welding the panels
Hi Bruce
How are you welding panels in position? Spot or plug weld? If you are spot welding the problem I had get good welds of new sheet metal to the rusted and pitted angle iron frame was getting a good contact and hence good consistent welds. Cleaning up the angle iron at all the way along and treating it so that it will not start rusting again was my concern. Couple of thoughts to duplicate the original welding.
Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#6
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Thanks for that Phil, it has been a worry. I may augment the spot welds with welds to the top and inside where they can't be seen. I used a sharpy marker to mark the channels on the inside face of the new skin and will use that to match the spot weld spacing on still visible on the channel. With that marked I can drill 1/4" holes for my 'spot welds'. In most places I think I can get a c-clamp (two would be better, one on each side) very close to the spot weld location to make sure I have close contact between the metal surfaces. I've considered 1/8" pop rivets if necessary to hold things together then removing them and patching the holes. I share your concern about having as much rust proof coating between the body channels and the skin as possible.
What's causing me a little bit of grief is I chose to keep the two upper rear panels where they go around the back corners. I'm having to slide the lower panel under the lip which I'm sure wasn't how they did it in 1944. Quote:
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