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  #241  
Old 27-05-18, 10:53
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi David,

Thanks for that. Yes, the radio stuff has been an education, but fun. Not so complicated that one feels they have the confidence to have a go, but damn satisfying when the thing works like it should!
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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #242  
Old 11-06-18, 23:19
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I’m back on the M8 again after returning from France, albeit briefly, as I have an operation on my hand today so will be out of action for a few weeks.

I picked up a few things I needed while in France: NOS throttle master cylinder, return springs for the clutch and brake, NOS turret support bearing and an A62 dummy antenna. I saw a few M8 parts at the various swap meets there, but not a heck of a lot.

I had another tinker with the interphone system for the driver and co-driver. It turns out that the microphone I was using on the co-driver side was not working. I tested it again with a NOS T-30 microphone and it works fine, so that is good news.

I noticed that the NOS T-30 microphones straight out of the box were really sensitive and clear. They were much better than the T-17 microphones I had tried. I have a few older T-30 microphones that don’t appear to work though. Has anyone tried to repair these? I gather they work on vibrations from the throat. I prised one apart but it doesn’t look like there is a lot that is serviceable, short of replacing the microphone element.

I have the front axle under the hull now and springs fitted. When my hand comes right I will bolt the axle to the front springs. I had quite a battle lining up the mounting holes on the front spring mount on the co-driver side. It is a chunky piece of steel but must have a very small twist on it, and I had to open up a couple of the mounting holes by a mm.
Attached Thumbnails
20180609_133255.jpg   20180611_191427.jpg   20180611_191034.jpg   20180611_143647.jpg   20180611_170229.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #243  
Old 11-06-18, 23:20
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20180611_191002.jpg   20180611_123621.jpg  
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #244  
Old 20-06-18, 09:08
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I’ve decided to get my intermediate and rear axles reassembled by a local truck mechanic. I could do most of the work myself but with the operation I had on my hand last week, I can’t lift anything heavy for 6-8 weeks, and that will really slow my progress down. I figure I might as well get these guys to do the heavy work in the meantime which will keep the project moving.

The rear axle needs blasting and painting and reassembly with a new pinion shaft oil seal and new gaskets.

The intermediate axle also needs blasting and painting, but it also needs the differential carrier bearings replaced (which I have), a light bead-blast of the ring gear and diff housing and reassembly with a new pinion shaft oil seal and new gaskets.

I am in the process of gathering up all the drawings and specs for the mechanic and was looking at the procedure involved in setting up the preload on the pinion shaft, as per the attachment. I guess the truck mechanic will have some sort of tool for setting that preload up.

What about any other form of setup between the drive pinion and the ring gear? What thickness gasket paper should we be using? What effect does the gasket thickness have on the backlash?

Another question – one of the axle housings has a good torque rod end still on it, as per the photo. I haven’t taken it off at this point. My question is, can the adjustable torque rods be fitted with the axles in place and that torque rod end still on the housing? I am not sure whether both ends of the adjustable torque rods have to be on and the complete torque rod fitted in one piece.

I am trying to get my head around that aspect of the reassembly of the intermediate and rear axles. It’s no problem to remove the torque rod end, but I will have to cut it off and I don’t want to unnecessarily remove it if it can be reused.

I’m still after a U bolt for the rear springs if anyone has one.
Attached Thumbnails
P1070089.JPG   Pinion gear preload.JPG   axle housing.JPG   Diff assembly.JPG   P1070042.JPG  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #245  
Old 20-06-18, 09:09
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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P1070044.JPG   20180620_131907.jpg   Torque rod parts.jpg   P1070112.JPG  
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #246  
Old 20-06-18, 11:06
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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There is no reason that the torque rod end must be removed from the axle as long as the rubber is still servicable and the thread is clean and undamaged. You could assemble the rest of the torque rod onto that end before offering up the axle with torque rod to the vehicle. It might even make manipulating the axle a little easier as it will give you a bit of a handle. Do grease the threads before assembly or they will never come apart again !

Hope your hand mends quickly, you will be amazed at how much strength you loose by not using it and it is very easy to strain muscles and tendons when you do start to do propper work again so you need to go easy for the first month that you think it is fit again. I know from when I chopped the end off a finger a long time ago. They stuck it back on but I was a long time before I had all my strength back and I felt it in my whole upper body as I had not been able to do anything heavy at all. I was very lucky because although it is a slightly odd shape it is fully functional and even has most of its feeling.

David
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  #247  
Old 20-06-18, 12:53
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Default Preload

Hi Big D, the preload on the side carrier bearings is achieved by the thickness of the gaskets, It is easier to set this up without the pinion installed. We laser cut 2 or 3 thicknesses of gasket paper for this process when doing Bren Carrier diffs. The local engraving shop could achieve this for us. Cheers ANDREW.
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  #248  
Old 20-06-18, 21:53
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi David

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I wasn't sure if the torque rod would fit in the space available without having the ends already screwed onto it. I guess I will find out.

I had Carpal Tunnel surgery on the hand and I didn't think it was a big deal but the surgeon said that it can take 12 weeks or more to come right and not to push it. Your experience with hand surgery confirms for me that I will need to take it easy.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car

Last edited by Big D; 20-06-18 at 22:45.
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  #249  
Old 20-06-18, 21:56
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Andrew

Thanks for your reply. I figured the gasket thickness must have come into it and I wondered why it wasn't mentioned in the manual.

The laser cutting of the gaskets is a good idea, thanks. I will get a pattern drawn and get that off to someone who can cut a few out before I get it all off to the mechanic. That might save a few dollars.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #250  
Old 21-06-18, 07:17
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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It is probably not mentioned in the manual, because there will only be one thickness of gasket supplied. The Ford axles have a ).010" gasket.
If every thing is in order, then straight forward assembly of new side bearing cups into the two housings with new cones assembled to the carrier and the whole lot bolted together is "supposed" to give you the correct side bearing preload. If you follow through on the parts info. I think you will find a single gasket is supplied , one part number, no other options, and as with Ford, a little hard to find the info on how thick it is.
If you follow Andrews method it is a good double check.
You can "jerry rig" a set up to do your pinion preload. Give me a call if you want to, and I'll talk you through it.
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  #251  
Old 22-06-18, 00:11
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Lynn

Thanks for your reply. I can recall you and I talking about gaskets when you and I were looking at the axles when you were down here. I will check the manual out a bit further to see if it mentions gasket thickness. I think I read about your preload check method and I may yet give you a call!
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #252  
Old 13-07-18, 07:32
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

Just a quick update to let you know that I am still alive and that I have started work on the M8 again after my hand surgery.

With the help of a local mechanic, we got the problem flange off the pinion shaft on one of the axles. As you can see, the pinion shaft needs a clean-up and the bearing cups and cones need replacing. The pinion shaft on the remaining axle looks good so I have left that in place, although it does need a new oil seal in the pinion shaft cover.

The axles are at the sandblasters now for priming and painting and then I will drop them off to the truck mechanic and get him to reassemble them. I have new bearing cups and cones for the differential assembly for both axles, new inner axle seals and new bearing cups and cones for the pinion shaft for that one axle, so will get them to reassemble everything with the new parts, and set up the preload and sideload etc.

I did some more work on the front axle and got that into place on the springs. It seemed to take a hell of a long time as my right hand is still not right after surgery. I had to battle away with jacks and cranes to get the axle in place and located on the pin on the springs. I struggle to hold a beer bottle tight enough in my right hand to unscrew the cap, which is a worry. I guess it will come right given some time. Anyway, the front axle is now in place and located on the front springs. The nuts and bolts need some touch up paint now to tidy everything up now that everything is locked down.

I’ve attached some pictures of the 37mm breech block I picked up (thanks DG). It should clean up nicely.

Does anyone have any pictures of the taillight wiring connections? I note there is one plug off the wiring harness in the rear of the hull which goes into the conduit fixed into the hull for the taillights. From what can see, this then splits into two connectors within the taillight mount for the taillight bulbs but I’m not sure what sort of connectors should be here to join the cables up. The manuals are unclear on this. Any help would be appreciated.

That is all.……
Attached Thumbnails
20180710_115303.jpg   20180710_115315.jpg   20180713_172119.jpg   20180712_114801.jpg   20180712_114807.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #253  
Old 13-07-18, 07:33
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20180710_115339.jpg   20180705_165841.jpg   20180713_141550.jpg   20180713_141702.jpg   20180713_141740.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #254  
Old 17-07-18, 01:05
James P James P is offline
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Great new pics, it is always a treat to see the work invested in a restoration and this one is right up there for doing it right and accurate.
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  #255  
Old 13-08-18, 10:21
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
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Default M8 restoration

Thanks James P.

Just a quick update this time. I have been tied up with a few other projects so I haven’t had a chance to do a lot on the M8. I’ve still progressed a few things though and the search and finding of parts I need goes on.

I dropped the freshly painted axles at the truck service centre along with the diffs, bearings and seals etc. I had completely disassembled one of the differentials and once I had cleaned everything up, it all looked not too bad. The crown wheel has a bit of pitting on it but it will be fine for this old girl.

I did note that the differential carrier housing had a very fine crack in the casting. I don’t think it would have happened during the disassembly and I suspect it has been there for a number of years. I will get the lads at Action Engineering to repair the crack before we reassemble that diff.

In the meantime, I picked up a few bits and pieces: M1A1 A/T mine, TL-122A flashlights, gear shift rod bronze bearing, DM-34D dynamotor, tow shackle, and D40733 Cradle and Pintle assembly for the gun ring. The pintle for this cradle though, should have the long pin so I am now on the lookout for that.
Attached Thumbnails
20180720_084359.jpg   20180718_122224.jpg   20180718_122244.jpg   20180718_122303.jpg   20180718_123618.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #256  
Old 13-08-18, 10:22
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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More photos.
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20180718_123421.jpg   20180718_123437.jpg   20180813_163420.jpg   20180807_111610.jpg   20180719_120656 - Copy.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #257  
Old 25-08-18, 01:21
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I’ve been chipping away on various little jobs on the M8 in between work and life.

I’ve been slowly making up the hydraulic lines. It is quite a time consuming process when you don’t have any original lines to work from. I found after I made the first two lines, that it was easier to get a length of Number 8 wire and shape that to what I wanted and use that as a template. I ended up using steel bundy tube and I’ve found that even 5/16” line is quite hard to bend. The copper alloy tube I'd seen was just too expensive and I’ll need a better tube bender than what I’ve got to finish the 3/8” and ½” lines.

My intention is still to get a commercial brake line specialist to do the flaring on the ends of the lines. I want to be pretty darned confident that I’ll fit these lines and they won’t leak, and while I can do the flaring myself, I think it is a wise move to get them done right, especially with steel lines.

I’ve seen a couple of versions of the layout of the hydraulic lines to the throttle master cylinder. I’ve noticed that most (I figure the original layout) have the line from the outlet on the master cylinder coming out horizontally and then being bent upwards vertically (see the pictures I borrowed off the net). From what I’ve seen this can be a problem as the co-driver can damage the connection by just putting their foot on it. I plan to fit a 90 degree connector to the outlet so the line can go vertically upwards and behind the reservoir, which should hopefully prevent those problems. I'd be interested to hear what other M8/M20 owners have found with this.

Has anyone reconditioned the primer pump? Mine is missing the washer/seal in the end of the pump and I am looking for the correct replacement. A local seal supplier said they can make me one out of a rubber product which will handle the fuel but I’m thinking there must be something commercially available now that will do the job. Is this a cup type washer or something similar? What is the purpose of the two nuts?

I noticed there are several variants of the rubber bushing for the shock absorbers. I was told that the one in the centre of Photo 10 (the bottom photo) was what ‘everyone is using’, but they are certainly too thick in their present state. The one on the left is the correct one but I only have a few of these. Has anyone got a source for these?

What about the spacer for the top mounting bolt on the shock absorbers? Does anyone have any of these?
Attached Thumbnails
20180824_153550.jpg   20180824_142110.jpg   20180824_142121.jpg   36.jpg   IMG_3408.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #258  
Old 25-08-18, 01:22
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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20180824_162147.jpg   20180824_162153.jpg   20180824_095855.jpg   20180824_100041.jpg   20180824_095844.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #259  
Old 26-08-18, 06:14
The Bedford Boys The Bedford Boys is offline
Steve Denby
 
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Default The seal for the primer pump

The seal for the primer pump , could it have been a leather one?
In which case check on the coleman website or similar as they have many different sizes of leather pump seals
Shuk Engineering in Taranaki also do a good range of leather seals.
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  #260  
Old 26-08-18, 09:37
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Alex

Yes, I was also thinking it could have been a leather seal. Thanks for the lead. I will check out both those websites.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #261  
Old 26-08-18, 13:56
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default Seal for the primer pump

Have you considered the various gasoline powered M series trucks from the early 1950s? M38, M37, M135/211 M35 series etc. as a parts source In basic appearance, their primer pumps are at least similar? The Canadian parts list for the M135 only lists the pump as an assembly (the cup isn't listed as an available service part).
Link to another forum discussing cleanup/maintenance of primer pumps - http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modul...ewtopic&t=5143

Last edited by Grant Bowker; 26-08-18 at 14:02.
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  #262  
Old 26-08-18, 23:05
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Grant

Thanks for the reply. I gather the M8 pump was used on the M41 Walker Bulldog tank but like you, I haven't been able to find a breakdown of the internal parts of the pump.

I will check out that other forum you provided. Thanks for your help.
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #263  
Old 31-08-18, 05:35
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

Today I spent some time looking over the various Hercules JXD engines I have for both the M8 and the White Scout car I am restoring.

My engine reconditioner has had two Hercules engines at his workshop for me for several years (that’s another story). Well, he has now started work on the job of getting one engine rebuilt for my Scout Car so it was a good chance to take stock of what I have and what engines I could put together.

As I say, I have two engines for the scout car with the engine reconditioner. I also have three partly complete engines for the M8 at the workshop. I’d like to know exactly what parts on these engines are interchangeable between the M8 and the Scout Car.

From what I understand, the short blocks on these are the same. That is, the short block on an M8 will be fine for a Scout Car and vice versa. I know there are differences with the clutches, waterpump, gearbox and oil pump where these parts are not interchangeable. What else is there that is different?

Of the two engines at the reconditioners; one has a good block and had .40 thou pistons in it. This block has now been crack tested and it appears fine. It also looks like the bores and pistons will be okay with new rings.

The other block had the pistons completely stuck in the bores. Several pistons got broken in the process of getting them out. The bores look bad but the walls themselves appear fine and have not collapsed at all that I can see so far.

The three engines for the M8 in the workshop all have the pistons stuck in the bores, as per the photos. All have a wall in the bore that has collapsed. I understand that sleeving these bores is an option providing that there is an inch at the bottom and an inch at the top that is sound which will support the sleeve. Has anyone else had experience with sleeving these with such a scenario?

So, can I mix and match the blocks between the M8 and the scout car? What other parts can I mix and match and still end up with a correct M8 engine/Scout car engine. What other differences do I need to consider?

I have spare valves, STD pistons, 0.20 thou pistons and 0.60 pistons, plus spare valves and as you can see three spare crankshafts. I also have mains and big end and camshaft bearings. These bearings are all readily available anyway.

My ideal scenario is to build a good engine for the scout car, a good engine for the M8 and have a spare engine that I could potentially use in a future project.

Any thoughts or experiences with the Hercules JXD engines would be appreciated.
Attached Thumbnails
20180831_135747.jpg   20180831_140509.jpg   20180831_140525.jpg   20180831_105804.jpg   20180831_111514.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car

Last edited by Big D; 31-08-18 at 08:40.
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  #264  
Old 31-08-18, 05:36
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20180831_111524.jpg   20180831_111604.jpg   20180831_111615.jpg   20180831_130007.jpg   20180831_130523.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #265  
Old 31-08-18, 08:06
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Hi Darryl, I have rebuild info, if you don't already have it.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #266  
Old 31-08-18, 08:43
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Lynn

Thanks for that. I have TM 9-1706 which is the manual for the Hercules JXD gas engine for the scout car. It is a 1942 manual so doesn’t go into any detail aside from what is pertinent to the scout car engine. I’m not aware of a similar manual for the M8.

What data do you have?
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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #267  
Old 31-08-18, 12:36
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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I have a "Motors Truck and Tractor Repair Manual" from 1950.
It covers 50 truck makes, tractors ,and 28 models of Hercules engines, including the JXD.
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Bluebell

Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #268  
Old 07-09-18, 09:14
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Thanks Lynn. Will keep that in mind.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #269  
Old 07-09-18, 09:15
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

Thanks to Willy, who is a fountain of knowledge on M8’s, Scout Cars and anything armour, I’ve worked out the differences in the engines on the M8/M20 and the Scout Car. The basic engine blocks are identical and have interchangeable crankshafts, camshafts, valves etc. The parts that are different are all the extras:

• Oil pan and oil pump
• Bell housing and timing cover
• Flywheel and clutch assembly
• Starter motor, water pipe and distributor

The reason I was keen to know this was to make best use of all the Hercules engine parts I have. I have a spare engine block from my scour car restoration which now has all the pistons out of it. The bores on this are worn, but are sound with no damage to the walls.

The three engine blocks I had for the M8 all have stuck pistons with damage to the bore walls. After comparing the spare scout car engine block with the three M8 engine blocks, I’ve decided that the scout car block is the better candidate for a rebuild for the M8, so I will use that one. I’ll remove the timing cover, bellhousing, sump etc from the M8 blocks and use those on it. I will work out what combination of pistons and sleeves etc I will use at a later time, but it was just good timing to be able to check this while the scout car engine was getting rebuilt. By the looks of things, I should have enough bits and pieces to rebuild at least two more Hercules engines on top of these two, but that will be something I will sort out later. The Hercules block and head being machined in the photos are for the scout car.

Thanks also to Willy for his recommendation on trying the rubber shock bushes for the Dodge M43. I’ve found these are a better fit than what I had. The ends still need cutting down a bit though so that they fit in the 1.75” gap in the shock absorber mounts. I used a hacksaw to do this and then smoothed the ends with a flap disc on a grinder. This gives the correct width for the rubber bushes to fit into the shock mount.

I got the turret mantle and recoil system back from the engineers yesterday. They had several attempts at removing the screws holding the recoil system in place. They couldn’t spark remove them and so they mig-welded bolts on the screws to see if they could wind them out. They kept breaking off so they arc welded them instead and that worked. As you can see, months of penetrating oil on these screws appears to have made no difference at all.

Has anyone pulled these recoil systems apart? Is the spring under load in the housing? Both recoil systems are a bit knocked about and as one is sold, I want to keep the best one for myself (sorry Lynn). It looks to me like stripping one down will be a challenge as well. There are NOS recoil systems still available so I will see how we go with this one.

I think I found out why my 37mm barrel was not straight! As per the photos, it looks like something has struck the barrel in two places, which was covered by the incorrect sleigh. I see also that the barrel has previously been cut near the breech and welded up. There is a bit of work to do there to tidy the barrel up before I put the correct sleigh that I have on there. I will also need to rebuild the mounts for the lever arm shaft and straighten the lugs that secure the recoil system coupler on the breech ring.

The intermediate and rear axles are progressing. Getting the diff housing bearing cones out was a problem but I understand a gas torch has now encouraged them to come out. I spoke to the engineering guys about the cracked differential housing and they say it won’t mig weld. We are going to look at whether it can be brazed but they tell me there is no guarantee that this will work.

Is there anyone out there with a worn M8/M20 differential who would be prepared to part with that part of the diff assembly? That would save me the trouble of trying to repair this piece which mightn’t be successful anyway. Thanks to Andrew, I might have some ready made gaskets coming to, so we are getting there.

Most of the hydraulic lines are cut and shaped now but I’ve still got to do the ½” tube.

That’s all for this week.
Attached Thumbnails
20180904_144453(0).jpg   20180904_144503.jpg   20180906_151637.jpg   20180906_151658.jpg   20180907_170557.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #270  
Old 07-09-18, 09:16
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20180905_144809.jpg   20180905_144817.jpg   20180907_162738.jpg   20180907_162756.jpg   20180907_162238.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
Reply With Quote
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