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  #1  
Old 03-08-12, 02:58
Steve Wilson Steve Wilson is offline
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Default another CAN m37 resto

Hello friends.
I joined the forum recently while looking for information and such. I don't have a lot of military vehicle experience , but I do have a lot of restoration and general vehicle knowledge and would love to help out any I can.
I've started restoring ( with some modifications) a 1952 m37 CAN I've got it stripped to the bare frame and plan on blasting and painting everything in pieces.
Although I am going to modify it somewhat for better driveability, (I plan to drive it extensively) I would really like to keep the colour "period correct" and for the most part , the looks. I'm having a real time finding a paint code or number to get paint mixed. I know that we can get American colours from American suppliers and I can get the current NATO green colour but I would prefer the original 1952 CAN colour. I have a piece of original coloured metal at my dupont paint supplier and he's trying to match it or mix something real close. I'm sure others have had this problem and wondered how they resolved it.
Thanks for your time and input and this great forum
Steve

Also I have some parts left from a m43 (?) ambulance I will be listing as soon as I get some pictures taken.
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  #2  
Old 03-08-12, 05:04
rob love rob love is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
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You could mix a bit of black into the US 24087 colour. Or just use the 24087 colour and it will darken in about a year or two on it's own.

I have several gallons of the Cdn military semi-gloss IRR paint in the basement, but the bottom half is pretty thick now.
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  #3  
Old 06-08-12, 18:19
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Michel D Michel D is offline
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Hello if you think about replacing the old diffs by new type to drive it extensively it will be hard to do ! I did it once on one of my M37 the rear is easy but the front is diffrent from the new types you will need to narrow the diff tube and buy a specific axle to fit in it or you will need to change the shakel to fit on the leaf spring pads .The distance center to center on the old diff leaf spring pads should be 29+/- and the new 32+/-.
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  #4  
Old 06-08-12, 18:37
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chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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I uesed 24087 on my M37CDN. It is a nice colour of paint but as Rob says. it does darken with age. It is a nice semi gloss.
After I did a complete resto on mine, I often contemplated doing another for better driveability.
I would suggest the power steering conversion, 318cid chrysler or a 3,9l diesel, disc brake conversion, dual stage master cylinder, lock out front hubs and regear the differentials. Remember, the wink link on these truck is the rear axles. Do not think that dropping a big block into it and you will have a monster off road truck. You will have a disabled truck with broken axles.
Mine drove very well stock, if you enjoy 45mph. I believe by doing a re-gear you end up with a gain of approx 7-8mph. You also cut the engine rpm down.
You get another gain with a modest change in tire sizes, one up from the stock 9.00-16, maybe another 7-8mph. A few guys I know have done these mods and have very nice driving trucks that will crusie along all day long at 60mph.
You are also at a time where there are lots of parts around, both NOS and repro, especially sheet metal. I have to fabricate much of my sheet metal replacement panels because at the time they were simply not available.
John Bizal at Midwest Military is a good source.
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  #5  
Old 09-08-12, 18:35
Steve Wilson Steve Wilson is offline
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Default mods

Thanks for the input guys. I have done the 4 wheel disc brake and dual master cylinder mods, also power steering. I put swinging pedals from under the dash to get more foot room. I was planning on a v8 conversion as well as they will rev better for longer. I was planning on using 11-20 tires and have started mating rims together for this.(pics later)
So your saying these axles are weak? The inner axle shaft? ring and pinion? spiders? Rear ? front?
Please explain further before I go much further with stock stuff.
Again, I apreciate all the help and input.
Steve

Oh, and I have got "colour your world " to match the colour in epoxy primer and 2 part urethane top coat , Picking it up tomorrow morning.
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  #6  
Old 09-08-12, 20:10
rob love rob love is offline
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The rear left axle shaft (the long one) is notoriously weak. They were weak in their service life, and are weaker now with wear and age. Apparently some of the replacements may be a bit better, but I have no experience in them.

I broke mine one time trying to get across an icy intersection. It suddenly caught and shot across, but the axle shaft broke at the same moment.

The Shilo museum also just recently had to replace a shaft. Not sure how it got broken.
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  #7  
Old 09-08-12, 23:48
Edwin Wand Edwin Wand is offline
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Recently our M43 ambulance broke a rear axle, the short one. It was under no particular strain, had just been started and put in gear when there was a loud clunk and that was the end of the axle.

We replaced both axles albeit we had considerable difficulty in extracting one half of the broken axle that had become wedged. We removed and cleaned the differential and there was no further damage.

The interesting point is that in our opinion the steel was defective. Sheared in the middle, each piece ended in a sharp dagger much like a wet piece of wood might have split.

That it lasted 60 years is remarkable given this defect at the time of installation.

The metal was crystalled and discolured. It seems likely the cause was improper heat treating combined with too rapid quencing.

It would be interesting to know if others have experienced a similar short rear axle fracture as the result of defective steel.
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M43 Broken Axle[1]  4MLU.jpg  
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  #8  
Old 10-08-12, 16:09
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jason meade jason meade is offline
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If I remember correctly the short shaft had problems, closer to the spline than where yours broke, I have seen two others break with both being just past the spline.
Jason
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  #9  
Old 17-08-12, 02:46
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Ewen B Ewen B is offline
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Default cheap home hardware paint

Hey. Here is the paint code for the colour chip (that fell off the truck) I took to Home Hardware and had them scan on their computer. They produced this paint for me in the beauty tone rust paint. It is the brown-green paint, glossy. It works good and at around $36.00 a gallon (3.48L) can it is cheap. It is mixed to a clear base.

Product: 1823-389
size: B-Y26
Colour:H-7y 12 (could be H-74 12)
Formula:2-36

I will be getting a new batch done up so I can paint my frame and undercarriage. It will also be used to paint the old green truck a solid green.

I will get some better photos of the colour on the truck for you.
Ewen
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  #10  
Old 23-08-12, 03:52
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Ewen B Ewen B is offline
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Default paint

Here is a better photo of the green paint that I had made up.
Ewen
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m37-kids 001 (Medium).jpg  
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  #11  
Old 23-08-12, 23:22
Steve Wilson Steve Wilson is offline
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Thanks very much Ewen ! I will look into that.
I have been really busy with other things but I'm itching to get going on mine again soon. Also I want to get some pictures up for you guys, just can't find the time lately. I will soon though. I promise
Steve

Last edited by Steve Wilson; 23-08-12 at 23:22. Reason: spelling
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  #12  
Old 25-08-12, 15:57
Steve Wilson Steve Wilson is offline
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So I found some pictures of when I got it and started. I'll post more of progression as I get more. Enjoy.
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52 m37.jpg   IMG_5775.jpg   IMG_5776.jpg   IMG_5779.jpg  
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