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Rust Converter
Hello All,
What brand and type of Rust Converter have you used on your restoration products? I used one a couple of years ago and it did not live up to the expectations written on the label. Yes, I did read the label and I followed its instructions. Today one of my vehicles has lots of pockmarks of rust in the lower plenum AKA cowl. I am going to use a wire-wheel to bring the surface down to bare metal before treating the area. I would also like to paint over the area once it is treated; so a rust prevention type of paint would be good too! Kind regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 |
#2
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I use the KBS rust blast and there matching paint.
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#3
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Hello Danny,
I just went to the KBS website and sure enough... no retailers here in town. I telephoned them and they confirmed that their map of retailers is up to date. I then sent them an email describing how I will be going down to bare metal and then wanting to seal and protect the rust treated area. Some treatments suggest not going down to bare metal for their products to work the best. I am pretty clear cut in the opinion that: "Rust is Bad" and should be gotten rid of. Painting straight over rust like some products recommend just seems so wrong! Kind regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 |
#4
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no luck
I've not had much luck with rust converters. Have tried a few brands but the results are less than ideal. I have heard of some restorers going to the trouble of dipping the whole body shell in a chemical bath, its not a cheap option. Ive had good results with citric acid but for a cab or cowl you would need a small swimming pool ! For paint I use Wattyl Super Etch prime, in comes in black or grey . Surface prep is everything. I know a chap who restored a carrier using a high pressure water cleaner with a sand blaster nozzle attachment ........... he said it was effective but there is some rust flashing because its a wet process. The washer needs to be a powerful industrial sized unit , it wont be effective with a smaller domestic washer https://www.scintex.com.au/products/...d-blasting-kit
utube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2Y3BsEB7tY
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike Kelly; 28-10-20 at 09:02. |
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Hello Mike,
Thank you for the reply and for including the URLs. If the parts were smaller and were detachable from the vehicle, I would set up a molasses bath - plenty of the stuff around here. Kind regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 |
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#7
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Rust converter vs rust removal
Hi Lionel,
The link here says it all. https://www.duluxprotectivecoatings....converters.pdf I stopped using rust converters 35 years ago when I used Ironize of some steel outdoor furniture and within a year rust bled through. Yes, too, I followed the directions. Getting rid of the rust is the best way IMHO. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
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Quote:
Well that is a pretty definitive conclusion from Dulux! Thank you for posting the link to their document. Kind regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 |
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