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  #331  
Old 23-03-19, 12:50
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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20190310_165939.jpg   20190311_182439.jpg   20190316_175315.jpg   20190321_113855.jpg   20190322_100835.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #332  
Old 23-03-19, 14:15
James P James P is offline
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More great work and breathtaking attention to detail. I have to say you are doing some amazing things bringing that car back to factory new. Just one small suggestion, take some silver paint and do some touch up around the strikes on the turret. I used POR-15 on my one strike and it looks so cool instead of a OD paint filled impact.
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  #333  
Old 23-03-19, 14:23
James P James P is offline
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Back at post 332 you mention a oil seep on the pillow block, have you ever considered Corn Head grease for the fill ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zNhli-J0Gk
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  #334  
Old 23-03-19, 14:51
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi James P,

Thanks for that. That is a great idea about the silver paint. I will do that.

Interesting video. The little cork wedge I made actually did the trick and stopped the leak. However, I did learn though that the recommendation for lubrication for the pillow block changed from gear oil to grease, simply because of the leaks. I will do some more reading about that grease.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #335  
Old 23-03-19, 17:06
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Hello Darryl.

You are making good progress now. Nice to see all the hard work paying off for you.

It’s interesting how little information is out there regarding the post war use of the M8 by the Italian Army. It does not seem to be a priority topic. I have, however, run across two M8 publications that have mentioned (and little else) the Italian usage. The interesting thing was both publications referenced the same source, as follows:

OSPREY BOOKS, ISBN 1-84176-468-X

‘M8 Greyhound Light Armoured Car’ (2002)

by Steve Zaloga

I have no idea if this Osprey publication contains a one line quote about this topic, or deals with it to any depth, with further references, but thought I would pass the information along to you, if the book is not already in your library.

David
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  #336  
Old 23-03-19, 19:12
James P James P is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big D View Post
Hi James P,

Thanks for that. That is a great idea about the silver paint. I will do that.

Interesting video. The little cork wedge I made actually did the trick and stopped the leak. However, I did learn though that the recommendation for lubrication for the pillow block changed from gear oil to grease, simply because of the leaks. I will do some more reading about that grease.
Hey Big D, I use Corn head grease on a VW transfer case that is prone to bleeding out and can vouch for it being a good call. The silver paint idea is something I saw on the show Tank Overhaul where after painting the vehicle they touched up all the strikes and hits with silver paint .
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  #337  
Old 06-04-19, 05:38
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi David

Thanks for that. I'm getting there now.

Yes, I have that Zaloga book here. It is very detailed and a good read.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #338  
Old 06-04-19, 05:39
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Thanks James P. I will need to get some of that paint. It will be a good little 'fill-in' job between other bigger jobs.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #339  
Old 06-04-19, 06:48
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
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Default M8 restoration

This week I have been tidying up a few more jobs and working on the transfer case and gun. I sourced some axle 'wedges' that I was after from a US supplier. In the US they are referred to as wedges but they seem to have different names (collets/split cones)in other countries.

I finalised the headlight wiring in the front of the hull and fitted the headlight holders and clips. I had one of each of the headlight holders and clips that were original and fabbed up the others. I am still on the lookout for those elusive T locking pins for the headlight pedestals.

After fitting the gun sleigh to the recoil system, I wasn’t happy with the way the sleigh slid on those two brass strips on the recoil system. I pulled the recoil system out again and rechecked the measurements. I found that the fold was not perfect across the whole length of the folded strips, and in places varied up to 0.2 – 0.3 mm. In the end, I shaved off 0.1-0.2mm off the top and bottom of the using a flap disc on a grinder and that set the gap up nicely. The sleigh moves freely on the recoil system now. I think if I had to do that job again, I would find some brass, or maybe even aluminium, channel the exact size, rather than folding brass sheet.

I got some advice about fitting the gun tube and decided that was a good way to go about it. Although the barrel had been straightened it was not perfect and I had to grind a few high spots that had been caused by the damage, before it would even go into the sleigh. At the time of writing, I am still working on this and not yet been able to get the barrel all the way into the sleigh. It needs to move another 20mm to seat it in the large ring at the end of the sleigh. Big hammers have not worked and I think I will have to make up a tool to give it some mechanical assistance to fully seat the barrel tube in the sleigh. As you can see, the freshly painted barrel and sleigh will need repainting!

I started test fitting some of the gun parts like side plates, .30 cal mount and ammo tray etc, so I could work out what mounting bolts I needed. I also fitted the mantlet but will need to get the two correct 5/8” NF allen head bolts for securing it to the recoil system.

I don’t have the little wedge piece on the bottom of the gun mount finalised as yet. The piece I’m talking about has two notches in it and is bolted onto the bottom of the gun mount. The two bolts sit in bushes on the mount, and have little cams on them, presumably for fine adjustment. The notches align with the release lever on the underside of the elevation system. From what I can see this acts as an elevation release and when you release the handle on the bottom of the elevation gear into the second notch, the elevation gear can rotate a little, releasing itself from the sector gear on the recoil system, and dropping the gun. In what situations was this used? Is it used when the gun is fixed in travel mode, to take the stress of movement of the vehicle off the elevation system?

I found that the two scope mounts I have are not matching for my turret model. As you can see from the photo, the mount nearest the breech sits too far away from the side plate. I am told though that these early scope mounts late had a spacer block between it and the side plate to allow them to sit at the right distance for mounting the scope. Hopefully I have secured a repro of one of these spacers.

Have I got the .30 cal ammo belt feed plate and empty case feeder chute mounted properly? Does the feed plate just swivel on one of the 5/8” rods from the mantlet? What about the empty case feeder chute? I also need a bush of some sort for the trigger lever for the .30 cal.

Now that I have all those bits and pieces in place, I’m hoping that everything can just remain there now awaiting me sliding the barrel and sleigh into place on the recoil system.

That is all....
Attached Thumbnails
20190324_164925.jpg   20190406_145418.jpg   20190405_103432.jpg   20190405_105716.jpg   20190405_105834.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #340  
Old 06-04-19, 06:50
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos..
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20190405_110013.jpg   20190405_153251.jpg   20190405_165756.jpg   20190405_165813.jpg   20190405_153541.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #341  
Old 06-04-19, 06:51
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Yes, more photos......
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20190406_123544.jpg   20190406_123606.jpg   20190406_135336.jpg   20190406_145911.jpg   20190406_135238.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #342  
Old 16-04-19, 10:38
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
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Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

One of the things I have been working on this week is getting the turret interior completed. As you would have seen on the photos, the breech ring is damaged on the underside but I have fitted this and the damaged tube until the new gun arrives.

I had quite a battle getting the gun tube seated in the sleigh and in the end had to make up a tool to make it happen. I guess there was enough of a kink in the tube to make it a tight squeeze in the sleigh.

The mantlet has two pieces of threaded rod which along with two large 5/8” Allen screws screws underneath, hold the mantlet onto the recoil system. My mantlet had one original piece of 5/8” threaded rod in it on the right side. I had to fit a new piece of threaded rod in the left hand side of the mantlet. I am not sure why but the original right hand rod does seem too long (maybe it’s not so original?). As it is it tends to sit over the ammo belt making the feeding of the ammo belt a bit tight. It does work but I wouldn’t trust it in combat. Ideally, I should take the mantlet off again, cut the rod down, and tap a new thread on it. I may yet do that. Thanks to Jonathan for his advice around the ammo belt feeder and ejected rounds shute. The .30 cal seems to sit in there nicely.

I also had quite a job getting the brass guide block on the side of the breech ring to line up with the right hand side plate. The brass lock was bent and it took a few hours to get it straight enough to align the breech ring and the side plate.

I am not at this stage yet, but how do you guys lift your turret? The access point where the plate bolts on at the back is an obvious lifting point but what about at the front? Do you wrap the strop around the mantlet? Perhaps front and rear, along with a strop that goes from side to side using the tie down ring around the turret?

I have a few other things back from the blasting and painting. The floor pieces came out good. The pintle hook is now fitted.

That's all for now.....
Attached Thumbnails
20190408_172449.jpg   20190412_114227.jpg   20190413_125723.jpg   20190415_154038.jpg   20190415_154110.jpg  

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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #343  
Old 16-04-19, 10:39
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20190415_154659.jpg   20190415_160019.jpg   20190411_123642.jpg   20190415_161543.jpg   20190415_161834.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #344  
Old 16-04-19, 12:28
James P James P is offline
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As usual GREAT pics and updates Big D. Lifting the turret, can,t you just hoist it using the three mounting points for the ring ?
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  #345  
Old 19-04-19, 17:16
James P James P is offline
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Hey Darryl, what exactly are we looking at in this pic in regard to big sections of armour cut away ? Looks like a life time of work getting those vehicles back in fine form.

http://www.milweb.net/webvert/a3892/96014
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  #346  
Old 19-04-19, 21:39
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8

Hi James P,

Sorry. I’ve just realised I missed your previous post.

I think just relying on the welds holding the ring mounts might be asking a bit much. I figure by the time I mount the ring on there and the gun trolley, the turret will be getting reasonably heavy.

I think what I’ll do is put a strop through the back access opening, one around the gun mount between the mantlet and turret and a strop around each side. I’ll then lower it down onto blocks on the turret, remove the side strops, and then lower it the rest of the way. That’s the plan anyway...
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #347  
Old 19-04-19, 21:46
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8s

Hi again,

Yes, I saw that advertisement. Very interesting. I have a contact who has seen them and he says the hulls are pretty bare. The damage to the hulls though might mean you’d be up for a fair bit of panel replacement. I see some of the panels look pretty knocked around. I’m not sure why one of them would have had the front section cut out. Replacing that might involve a fair bit of work, including on the inside.

From what I can see, individually, most of the hulls would be ‘doable’ without having to buy two, to make one, if you know what I mean. As you can see by mine, anything is possible. There are still plenty of parts out there for them....
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #348  
Old 04-05-19, 11:02
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

After a week away I started work again on the M8. I’ve painted the US star on the engine covers. That was a bit of a challenge with all the different heights on the covers and it is probably good that the finish is not expected to be perfect. I reckon there was about 4-5 hours work getting the preparation on the stencil right. I had to lay the stencil out, mark its location and then cut it into pieces and stick it on the covers. I think the finished product does look effective though.

I folded another piece of hydraulic line for the throttle reservoir. I wasn’t happy with the first one I made up and I was hoping to get the layout of these tubes as close as possible to the throttle to keep the tubes away from the co-driver’s feet. I think I was only partly successful but it is pretty good. Bending the 3/8” steel tube into that tight a curve without kinking it requires patience and time. Next time it will be copper-nickel tube….

The radiator is back now from being serviced. The guys repaired some of the cores and replaced the filler neck and overflow tube. It passed all pressure tests and I am painting it as we speak. I’ve also made a start on building a stainless steel fuel tank.

I had to make up the rods from the transfer case to the levers on the gear change housing from scratch. My local steel scrap merchant had some nice old yokes with the right thread and it was just a matter of cutting some suitable rod and threading the ends. One of the yokes actually came with a bit of rod which I used. This had an eyelet on the end which I left on there, as it seemed a better option than just bending the end of the rod like the original and in the end, I welding an eyelet onto the other rod. I have temporarily fitted the transfer case protection framework while I work out the nuts and bolts required to mount this.

I spent a bit of time working out where the gun firing cables went. These are in place now.

I needed some space in the workshop so I have temporarily put the ring on the turret and the fuel tank cover on the hull.

That’s it for this week…..
Attached Thumbnails
20190424_110214.jpg   20190502_133422.jpg   20190502_132953.jpg   20190504_140856.jpg   20190504_145656.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #349  
Old 04-05-19, 11:03
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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20190503_134235.jpg   20190503_134716.jpg   20190504_123014.jpg   20190504_123106.jpg   20190504_123225.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #350  
Old 28-07-19, 10:16
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I’ve been out of action for the last two months while travelling through Europe and catching up with a few people over there. We also took in the 75th anniversary of the D Day landings in Normandy which was great and the parts markets were a good source for a few bits and pieces.

Thanks to Willy, I managed to get hold of the elusive wee bell crank lever for the handbrake. I now need to make up a rod and clevis to suit this. I noticed that the angle that the handbrake cable runs at is a little odd. The cable arrangement does work but I would have thought the pull on it would have been straighter. Has anyone else noticed this? Nothing appears bent so maybe that is the way it is designed – just a little unusual to me.

I received the seat cushions and backs from Jim at Allied Forces. They are real nice and fit perfectly. I found that with the seat cushions on, I had the drivers seat a little too close to the steering wheel so I have now adjusted that. I had no pattern on the floor in the first place so my original fitting had involved some guesswork. I fitted some new dome buttons to the floor for the cushion domes.

With the help of one of the boys in the workshop and a forkhoist, we have the turret up off the floor which gives me more access to install everything else. I fitted the new seat backs and bases to the turret seat towers, and am now installing these towers in the turret. Once I have the seat frame in place and firing cables fitted, that will just about me it with the turret until it is dropped onto the hull. I will wait though until the vehicle is fully up and running before I do that.

The radiator is now painted and ready to fit.

While I’ve been away, the machining on the block has been completed. The valve seats were marginal but will do the job. Next up is to get the engine assembled.

That’s it for this week…..
Attached Thumbnails
20190722_132115.jpg   20190724_164358.jpg   20190723_112528_001.jpg   20190726_151249.jpg   20190727_140046.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #351  
Old 28-07-19, 10:17
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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20190726_151524.jpg   20190727_143205.jpg   20190728_165648.jpg   20190721_123430.jpg   M8 block 4.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #352  
Old 28-07-19, 16:27
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Good Evening, Darryl.

Nice to see the progress on your project continuing. You are going to be purring around the neighbourhood in it in no time!

I was looking at your parking brake fittings and must agree, it does look a bit strange with such a high angle of departure of the cable from the clevis to the cable bracket. It would definitely be worth fitting up the other half of the system to the bell crank, to see what sort of clearances are available. If it looks like everything clears each other, if the parking brake cable were to run horizontally, with the parking brake full on and full off, then you are on the right track and something is amiss.

I would start by checking the bell crank on the bench first.

Find a good smooth flat surface and make sure it is dead level. Then place the bell crank on that surface, resting one end of the large pivot on the surface. It will probably want to tip over towards the end of the large arm so you may need to place a small weight on the top of the pivot end to hold it in place. What you then want to do is measure the distance from the horizontal centerline of the crank arm to your work surface at the end of the crank arm, closest to the pivot casting. Do the same at the tip of the arm at the clevis fitting. Those two measurements will be the same if the bell crank arm is not bent.

While you have the bell crank on the bench, you may need a second pair of hands to check a second measurement. Have your assistant firmly hold the pivot end of the crank to the surface you are using and then you place a spirit level across the top of the pivot opening. See how close to level you get. Then do the same thing with the spirit level on the clevis fitting at the end of the crank arm. The two level readings should be a very close match. If the level reading is off, at the end of the arm, then the arm is twisted and will need attention.

If the bell crank checks out OK, and even if it does not, you should take a look at the large mounting bracket for the bell crank, on the cross member. The upper and lower arms of this bracket should both be 90 degrees square to the vertical face of the cross member. If they are, then place a small spirit level on the top face of the bracket, oriented parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. It should be reasonably horizontal, assuming your shop floor is reasonably horizontal. If the level reading indicates high to the rear of the vehicle, then the vertical face of that cross member may be twisted somewhat. Only a couple of degrees will make a big difference when transferred out to the end of the bell crank arm.

Keep up the good work!

David
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  #353  
Old 29-07-19, 00:28
motto motto is offline
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Looking at the photo of the hand brake bell crank the pin in the end of the arm is not parallel to the bell crank pivot. The arm has a twist in it.
Unless there is more to the set up than I can see I would simply put a stout podger bar through the clevis pin hole and twist until it aligns. Use a little heat if necessary.
Take it out and do it in a vice if you are worried about fire or the amount of force required.

Dave
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Last edited by motto; 29-07-19 at 00:34.
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  #354  
Old 29-07-19, 01:56
James P James P is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motto View Post
Looking at the photo of the hand brake bell crank the pin in the end of the arm is not parallel to the bell crank pivot. The arm has a twist in it.
Unless there is more to the set up than I can see I would simply put a stout podger bar through the clevis pin hole and twist until it aligns. Use a little heat if necessary.
Take it out and do it in a vice if you are worried about fire or the amount of force required.

Dave
I second the motion, Looks like a slight tweak and get things in line and straight. 70+ year old parts will no doubt have a few issues.
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  #355  
Old 23-08-19, 10:11
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I’ve been reminded again about the fact I haven’t posted another update (thanks M.) so here is what I’ve been up to.

I stripped and reassembled the M49 ring trolley I had and now have that running nicely on the ring. Until I did some research, I was not aware that there should be no paint on the roller surfaces, so I spent a bit of time stripping that paint off. The trolley wouldn’t budge with paint on the ring but runs nicely now. The ring actually looks good with the clean steel around those edges.

I mucked around with the handbrake for quite some time. Thanks to David, Dave and James P for their advice. I found that the strange angle on the cable was due in part to the fact that the cable had a kink in it just inside the end of the cable sheath. This made the cable kick out a little bit as it exited the sheath. The bell-crank does not appear to be bent.

The main problem I had was getting the cam lever at the top of the band to return when the handbrake is released. When the handbrake lever is pulled on and the cable is pulled it closes the handbrake band but when the handbrake lever is released, the springs between the band ends didn’t seem to have the power to make the band retract from the drum and the handbrake lever did not return. I experimented with springs that had a little more oomph with varying success.

After some more research, I found that there is supposed to be a return spring attached to the bellcrank to help return that to its start point! There doesn’t seem to be any mention of it in the parts manual and it wasn’t until I saw a single photo of it on an M20 that I noticed it and asked around. Thanks to Reg who later confirmed it is on his M20 as well. I still need to find a double headed clevis pin for the bell crank to hold the spring.

I’ve cleaned up the fuel filter and made up some fuel lines for that. I should have the stainless steel tank ready next month so I can finalise the fuel lines then. I also made up the handles for the engine covers.

Over a couple of days where it was too cold to go in the workshop, I did some work on the 37mm resin projectiles and brass I had. These are starting to look good and I have some stencils coming from Van at Questmasters which will finish these off nicely.

I picked up some more stuff from the blasters yesterday and did some fitting. The engine mounts and floor plate are now in place, as is the 37mm ammunition rack and shelf. I’ve also fitted the radiator diffusers and the fan shrouds will be next.

That’s all for this week.
Attached Thumbnails
20190814_182227.jpg   20190821_161302.jpg   20190821_160918.jpg   20190821_160954.jpg   20190821_161001.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car

Last edited by Big D; 23-08-19 at 23:11.
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  #356  
Old 23-08-19, 10:13
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20190823_132617.jpg   20190823_145238.jpg   20190822_133822.jpg   20190823_145224.jpg   20190823_175353.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #357  
Old 06-09-19, 09:30
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

Here are a few photos of what I’ve been doing on the M8 over the last few weeks.

After I completed the handbrake assembly and got that working well, I fitted the gear-change housing and rods and then the intermediate floor. I’m not 100% sure I won’t have this floor piece out again but it will make a nice change to be working over the top of something relatively flat. The body was taking a beating climbing over and over the transfer case and that large cross member that holds it.

I’ve also fitted all the drive-shafts with the exception of the main one from the gearbox (obviously) and the one to the intermediate axle. I have left one side of the transfer case protective shield off as it is too difficult to get at everything under there with that in place. As I say, some of these parts may have to come out again at some point if things aren’t quite right, but it has been a good exercise seeing if everything is fitting correctly and working. It also ensures I have everything I need now, rather than finding out later on that I am missing something. I had to buy a bunch of driveshaft universal points and bearing caps (thanks Ross) and even while I was fitting them I realised I got my count wrong and needed another four bearing caps!

I have continued the work on the 37mm shells for the turret and sponson rack using the stencils from Van at Questmasters. I’d have to say it can be fiddly work but the results are worth it. I may not have the yellow quite right on the M63 shell projectiles, but I’m very happy with the results.

I’ve been sorting out the pieces for the clutch assembly. I have a new clutch release bearing coming (Aetna A-2526). The clutch pressure plate seems fine, and will just need a clean. I have a couple of discs and a new facing so will have to do something with those. The flywheel ring gear is a bit worn. Can this be flipped 180 degrees and put back on like other Hercules engines? Judging by the looks of the tooth pattern on the ring gear, I’m not sure… Has anyone tried this?

I’ve also been working out what I have in the way of an exhaust system. According to the parts manual, I have the early model exhaust muffler for a later model hull setup, but I will make the muffler work.

I used some foam weather strip to the radiator as cushioning for when it is fitted in the hull and I need to get some thinner stuff now to go between the radiator and the fan shrouds.

A shovel and pick were the last things on the restoration list week and they are done and ready to fit.

That’s all for this week.
Attached Thumbnails
Floor.jpg   20190906_104733.jpg   20190906_105113.jpg   20190906_111310.jpg   37mm.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #358  
Old 06-09-19, 09:31
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20190906_111252.jpg   Clutch release assembly.jpg   Clutch.jpg   Flywheel.jpg   Exhaust system.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
Reply With Quote
  #359  
Old 22-09-19, 09:26
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

In between odd jobs on the M8, over the last couple of weeks a friend and I have been working on the Hercules engines for my scout car and the M8. It was a good chance to look at the differences between the scout car and M8 clutches which might assist other rebuilders.

I’ve attached a picture of an M8 pressure plate on the left and a Scout Car pressure plate on the right. The M8 pressure plate assembly is 355mm in outer diameter and the scout car clutch pressure plate assembly is 370mm in outer diameter to match the bigger flywheel. Of interest is that the face plates within the two pressure plates are the same dimensions.

The other point of interest is the two clutch plates pictured in photo 2. The one on the left is for an M8 and the one on the right is from a Scout Car. The overall diameter of these clutch plates are the same. The spline configuration and sizing appears to be the same and in fact, I think the hubs are exactly the same. However, the splined sleeve is fitted in opposite ways on the hubs between the scout car clutch plate and the M8 clutch plate. Photos 3 and 4 show the Scout car pressure plate and clutch disc on the left and the M8 pressure plate (the one in primer paint) and clutch disc on the right, so you can see the differences.

This could be of interest if you are after new fibre facings for your M8 or scout car. I’ve seen some dealers advertising M8 fibre linings and some advertising Scout car linings and from what I can see, the fibre facings will interchange. In addition, a complete M8/M20 clutch disc should work on a scout car and vice versa, providing the splined sleeve is positioned in the right way in the hub when the fibre linings are fitted.

Not sure how widely all this was known but hopefully a bit of handy information for M8/M20 and scout car engine rebuilders.

We have halfway built a fuel tank for the M8. In the end, I went for alloy construction, based on the advice I got from my fuel tank guru. It is 800mm wide, 460 mm high and 200mm wide, giving a volume of about 73 litres, which will be plenty for the use this M8 will get. The alloy construction is strong. I have a new fuel sender (thanks Kenet) and matching fuel gauge (thanks Charles) coming to set it all up. I anticipate strapping the tank to the cross section steel at the front of the engine bay, but will post photos once I’ve done this.

I’ve been putting off making up the hydraulic bleed junction I had been talking about. Not sure why, but it just went into the too hard basket for a while. I’d seen someone else make up one of these and I thought it was a great idea for improved access to all bleed points. Anyway, I thrashed out version 1 over the last couple of days. It is a block of alloy, drilled for the three hydraulic lines. I tapped all the holes for 1/8” NPT fittings. On the input side, I have NPT fittings coming which are female threaded at the inputs for standard tube nuts. On the other side, I have fitted NPT female adaptors for the bleed nipples. Finding the right fittings was a big part of the battle and I figured NPT threads were the best way to go. A bit of thread sealant on all the threads should do the trick. As I say, I don’t have the female adaptors for the tube nuts here yet, but you should get an idea of how it will work. I will mount the block on a sticky paid for starters and providing it all works, I’ll glue it in place.

Can anyone suggest a modern equivalent for the spring clips for the .30 cal spare barrel? I have drilled out the old broken bolts but now need to replace the clips.

Other things I’ve been working on are fitting some WW2 stamped jerry can mounts to the rear of the vehicle, gluing some felt strips on the radiator, and overhauling the carburettor.

By the way, the Hardy/Spicer FK35GB83 universal joint is a perfect match for the smaller propeller shafts on this.

That’s all for this week.
Attached Thumbnails
20190909_114243.jpg   20190908_110659.jpg   20190921_162012.jpg   20190921_162017.jpg   20190909_121923.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #360  
Old 22-09-19, 09:27
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 653
Default M8 restoration

More photos.
Attached Thumbnails
20190922_170453.jpg   20190922_170521.jpg   20190911_132234.jpg   20190911_132242.jpg   20190913_120738.jpg  

__________________
Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
Reply With Quote
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