Video of 216 engine on test stand

Phil Waterman · #1 03-02-06, 01:22

Been working on 216 engine for my Patter 12 C60L original engine still needs work so I’m going with a `52 216 cu.in. but prior putting the engine in the truck where it is so convenient to work on decided to do some extensive debugging on test stand. I’ve added a test stand page (still building page) to my web site http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ineTesting.htm what I thought you might enjoy is some really dull video of the engine running I’m trying to identify one sound that seems to come from the bell housing. Engine has about 2 hours on it at this time point so I haven’t read adjusted the valves yet. The sound doesn’t sound like the normal valve clatter. Any thoughts on the noise or diagnostic test suggestions will be appreciated,

Alex Blair (RIP) · #2 03-02-06, 13:26

Quote:

Originally posted by Phil Waterman
Been working on 216 engine for my Patter 12 C60L original engine still needs work so I’m going with a `52 216 cu.in. but prior putting the engine in the truck where it is so convenient to work on decided to do some extensive debugging on test stand. I’ve added a test stand page (still building page) to my web site http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ineTesting.htm what I thought you might enjoy is some really dull video of the engine running I’m trying to identify one sound that seems to come from the bell housing. Engine has about 2 hours on it at this time point so I haven’t read adjusted the valves yet. The sound doesn’t sound like the normal valve clatter. Any thoughts on the noise or diagnostic test suggestions will be appreciated,

Oh what a sweet sound..
I hear a bad or misadjusted lifter at idle...
Check your lifters,adjust your valves and do the test again....It sounds loverly..

Pete Ashby · #3 03-02-06, 23:37

I'm with you Alex

sounds like a tappet it seems to be at about half engine speed nice motor though sounds responsive when it's throttled up.

Pete

Phil Waterman · #4 05-02-06, 02:50

There was a noise that I could hear very faintly so I recorded a secondary sound tract. I’ve edited the video adding a second sound tract from a microphone mounted on a stalk so that it is literally sticking inside the clutch and pressure plate, this mic picks up sound that it is difficult to hear with the normal ear outside the engine. As the sound track brings out two noises cannot be identified with the unaided ear. After identifying the source of the noise I opened the engine up again to check the clearance on number 5 and 6 connecting rods. What was found instead of being the .001-.0045 called for in the manual these two rods were .006-.008 the clearance was reduced by removing the appropriate number of rod shims from each rod bolt.

I've up loaded the new video and sound tract to my web site. Take a listen, after I finish checking all the rods and reassemble I’ll add the after recording.

http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ineTesting.htm

Richard Farrant · #5 05-02-06, 11:50

Quote:

Originally posted by Phil Waterman
What was found instead of being the .001-.0045 called for in the manual these two rods were .006-.008 the clearance was reduced by removing the appropriate number of rod shims from each rod bolt.

Phil,

A little tip on checking bearing clearances when rebuilding. There is a product called Plastiguage, it is a sort of plastic wax rod(looking like a coarse bristle on a broom), it is laid across the journal and cap fitted and tightened. Without moving the engine, remove the cap and measure the now flattened Plastiguage with the calibration card provided, with this an accurate measurement of clearance is seen.

I believe it may be a US product, certainly available in UK.

Richard

Phil Waterman · #6 05-02-06, 22:19

Hi Guys

Yes, I've been using plasticgauge the surprising thing is that it is only available in the old line auto stores. One of the chain auto parts places didn’t even know what I was talking about.

Strangely, the noise that I picked up on the tape, sounds for all the world that someone is hitting the engine with a ballbeen hammer can not be heard with a mechanics stethoscope.

I’ve pulled the engine apart discovered the cause of the problem, in the reassembly process I had reversed the order of the rod bearing caps. I’ve re-gauged all the bearings and put them in the proper order.

As the old TV rock and roll shows would say about the tape, "good beat, but no good for dancing"

Alex Blair (RIP) · #7 05-02-06, 22:54

Good going Phil...
How in hell do these young guys work on engines with no plastigage...??
Maybe they don't rebuild anymore ,just slap in a crate engine....Jeez....modular redundant repairs....
Kids today have too much money...
I guess too much money is the death of us back yard mechanics...

Stewart Loy · #8 06-02-06, 13:31

Phil,

Glad to hear that you solved the problem.

I can't tell from the pictures where you route your crankcase ventilation. What do you do to dispell these nasty gases?

Thanks,

Stewart

cmperry4 · #9 10-02-06, 05:25

Neat vids and stuff as always Phil - I'm only just beginning to clean up my HUP's 216 - it was running when I parked it! - so I haven't decided if, or how much, I want to go into it before remounting it and reassembling the truck.

While I'm thinking about it - what's the correct brand/code of grey (or gray, as you might put it) - for painting the engine?

Phil Waterman · #10 11-02-06, 01:14

As to the first question how far apart do you want to take the engine, if it was running when you started work. I’ve owned my HUP since 1979 and I’ve never had the engine apart or even removed the oil pan, old adage if ain’t broke don’t fix it. But as you have it out I’d at least pull the pans and side covers, cleaning the crud out and putting new gaskets and seals in is worth the effort. Beyond that it really is a question of how well did run before. If an engine particularly the dipper six’s has not been run in a while dropping the pan to clean the troughs out, they can get pretty crusty.

Regardless of little or how much you do to the engine remember to reprime the oil system be for you try and start the engine. Running the pump with a drill is the only way to get the troughs refilled once they are empty, they do not get any oil when you fill the engine through the top end.

Now as to color of the engine everybody seems to believe that the engine color was gray and there is a standard Chevy gray. My only problem with that is that none of my three CMPs had any evidence of gray paint on the engines. All three were (an are) painted black.

cmperry4 · #11 11-02-06, 03:44

Thanks Phil - I'm a great believer in the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" credo. I was thinking of doing no more than you suggested for the covers and pan, beyond a good cleaning up the exterior and paint. Thanks for the tips on oiling, too.

As for paint, interesting you have only found black on the engines, in spite of Chevy gray being the "official" colour. I know I have found "chassis black" on a few areas where I would only have expected to find OD, too.

Keith Webb · #12 12-02-06, 05:35

Here's a pic of the inside of the first Cab 13 Chev to be locally fitted with a winch.

The gear and starter levers were painted black. The winch handbrake has just been fitted.

RHClarke · #13 12-02-06, 19:47

Quote:

Originally posted by cmperry4
what's the correct brand/code of grey (or gray, as you might put it) - for painting the engine?

I have found a product at Cdn Tire that matches the original gray (if in fact your engine was painted gray). At the risk of offending the "purists", I used Dupli Color engine enamel (ceramic) to repaint my beast - the product identifier is DE 1611 NEW FORD GRAY and sells for about 8 bucks for a 12 oz/ 340 g spray can. It is rated for 260 degrees C/500 degrees F. It took two cans to do the block and all covers.

The results can be seen on Bob Carriere's Barn Day thread - third photo

http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/sh...light=Barn+Day

cmperry4 · #14 13-02-06, 07:41

Ford!! Well, I'll look at that as a possibility. I'm not sure what colour my engine was - I haven't removed enough dirt and rust to tell. As for the "correct" grey, you should see how obsessive Ferguson tractor types get about using the authentic Ferguson gray, so as not to apply the accursed Ford grey in error - it matters very much to the Fergie purists (one of which I am at risk of becoming).

Phil Waterman · #15 13-02-06, 23:11

The engine on the stand is now back together, no new audio posted yet, but the little guy inside the engine with the ballbeen hammer is gone. Valves readjusted for the forth time and they are much quieter. Really, think I should have just run the engine for first 10 hours then readjusted the valves. But with the engine so easy to get at it really wasn’t a problem.

Only casualty of removing the engine from the test stand to readjust the rod caps was the voltage regulator reversed the leads and fried one of the contacts, works, but it now sticks.

Engine color there is no question in my mind that all three of engines were painted black, same black as the air cleaners and valve covers which have black under the decals. So let the controversy continue.