Universalgrl's MK I

universalgrl · #1 06-07-11, 00:02

My MK I came from Port Albernie on Vancouver island where it languished in a shed for 50ish years. As usual the armor was cut off 1 inch above the rivit line. no engine, or engine cover, or radiator armor, no instrument panel, no seats, speed change control missing back to the xmsn, but the hull and running gear in in good condition. But I do have an NOS speedo and control panel
The local classic car club is looking for a flathead engine for me.
The 19 set on the right is complete and operational with the correct control boxes, the one on the left needs work, this one will be my base station.
I have Lucas style headlights, and jeep tail lights, and of course battledress uniforms, 37 pattern webbing, helmets, trade badges etc.etc.

Project update
My carrier is now up on blocks ready to pressure wash. I haven't broken anything of consequence, just minor bolts holding a sheetmetal shroud covering the track steering mechanism, which I found to be full of gravel preventing the track warping from working, the track adjusters have been loosened and I can break the tracks and start pulling the wheels to get them rerubbered. I'm also waiting for my second order of parts from Brian.

Roberta
Comox

Alex Blair (RIP) · #2 06-07-11, 01:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by universalgrl

My MK I came from Port Albernie on Vancouver island where it languished in a shed for 50ish years. As usual the armor was cut off 1 inch above the rivit line. no engine, or engine cover, or radiator armor, no instrument panel, no seats, speed change control missing back to the xmsn, but the hull and running gear in in good condition. But I do have an NOS speedo and control panel
The local classic car club is looking for a flathead engine for me.
The 19 set on the right is complete and operational with the correct control boxes, the one on the left needs work, this one will be my base station.
I have Lucas style headlights, and jeep tail lights, and of course battledress uniforms, 37 pattern webbing, helmets, trade badges etc.etc.

Roberta
Comox

Roberta
Welcome to MLU forum..
You are among the most qualified carrier people in the world on this Forum..No question is stupid..silly or dumb...

All of us had to start somewhere and for all I know you may be a Military Master Motor mechanic that knows more about carriers than anyone here...In either case you are more than welcome and ask away..there are lots of spare parts kicking around the west and they should be quite reasonable..
So ask away..
Alex Blair
Ottawa
Oh by the way Grant Bowker on this forum has all the manuals that you need..
Contact him through the forum ..
Good luck

universalgrl · #3 06-07-11, 02:59

Hello Alex
Thanks for the information. Among my task list I have to pull all eight wheels, the rubber is badly chewed up but I may have to replace 2 of them, they may be damaged beyond repair running on steel on steel.
I have the radiator, the exhaust manifolds, the starter complete with the fan extension, all the controls appear to be intact, brake, clutch, throttle and steering with the exception of the gear change mechanism which is completely missing. Also there is only one lower seat frame.
I have been talking to Rick Debruyn about armour from Edmonton. I also know Derrick Eastman in Chetwyn.
As for manuals I have been collecting since 1970 and have about 450 99% orignal. (tried to send list but is word file)
I started out in the infantry in 1970 for 5 years got out for 2 then back in the airforce for the next 33 as an aerospace technician. I retired last oct and don't miss the air FARCE, I was always a soldier at heart. And my father was armoured corp in 44/45, my grandfather served with the british army in WW I was wounded but just enough to put him in hospital.

Regards
Roberta
AKA
Universalgrl

jeff davis · #4 10-07-11, 19:24

KMS Car Parts in Coquitlam Has a Complete Merc Flathead on a shelf that would work.You have to shorten the pan by 1 inch. Talk To Richard Hough
I have the same engine in My Carrier. I think they want about $800 bucks.
Jeff

maple_leaf_eh · #5 10-07-11, 20:20

There is an old thread about rerubbering carrier road wheels. in the Carrier forum. If you search you'll see where the collective wisdom is thinking.

As an aside, there is a cottage industry that keeps We(s)t Coast Sherman and M32-based spar logging rigs operating. The major maker was Madill in Nanaimo. The company has been sold, but their products are still in service. Operators must be getting new rubber on their wheels and trackpads somehow. If you have any contacts in the timber harvesting business, ask around. You might be surprised what can be done locally.

Hans Mulder · #6 11-07-11, 18:54

Here is the outfit I have been talking to about getting some wheels rerubbered:

Marlene Hanna
Redwood Plastics Corp.
26688-56th. Ave.
Langley, B.C.
Canada
Ph: 604-607-6000
Fax: 604-607-6010
http://www.redwoodplastics.com/
mhanna@redwoodplastics.com

I haven't been able to afford to put much $$$ into my carrier so far (wife's renovation wish list has priority) so I don't know how much they want per wheel. If some of your wheels are damaged, I've got some decent ones without rubber. I may want your damaged ones in trade though, as I'd like to build a tracked trailer at some point.

maple_leaf_eh · #7 12-07-11, 02:29

If you are going to go to the trouble of getting 6 or 7 wheels done, make sure you have as good a master copy as you can find. There is a military museum in Chilliwack - who might have a good wheel, or can point you towards someone who does. Then, please report back to the collective wisdom how you make out.

One suggestion that the guys here have seriously discussed for killing rust is to soak parts in molasses. Another is build a giant reverse electrolysis tank. Dream big! The first suggestion will attract any black bears within smelling range, the other will attract all local witches wondering what you are stewing!

universalgrl · #8 12-07-11, 05:32

My mother lives about a mile from the museum, matter of fact she was an assistant currator for several years before the engineers pulled out. She has been a long time legion member and has more medals than I do.
So I have been all over the MK I carrier thats on display. Unfortunally its a genuine 2 lb'er and lacking a lot of detail, and to top it off the gun is a 37mm not a 2 lb. But its a runner and only a purist would know the difference.
I have to build a coffer dam around around my carrier so I dont pollute my yard when I pressure wash the hull and remove how many pounds of gunk rust, rat droppings etc??
I'm trying a product called "evapo-rust" this is supposed to be very clean and enviromentally safe product and works through a selective "chelation " process and in my opinion is a good product, its aviable at automotive shops.
An engine option is to use a VW TD turbo AZ motor and run it on canola oil, I can hear the howls from the purists already but it would be cheap to run. Of course that just an option.

Roberta

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Bob Moseley (RIP) · #9 12-07-11, 07:15

Hi Roberta - why not throw the Carrier on a truck or trailer and go to the local truck wash. They have all the high pressure stuff and you leave your crap there. I do this with the vehicles I restore. Saves you building a coffer dam.

Bob

universalgrl · #10 03-01-14, 06:59

My latest find, a complete 1940 Ford flathead engine and transmission last ran about 10 years ago, no evidence of water contamination in the oil so I think I got a good one.
I will install new water pumps, oil pump , fuel pump, a carb kit, new coil, points, condensers and anything else it may need.
I payed for it by collecting pop and beer bottles for three months.
I also have a lovely set of matching boat anchors, coffee table supports, book ends, planters etc. etc. for sale cheap!!
All of the blocks I have are drilled for the three oil gallery fittings.
The two spare blocks have to be pressured washed and magnafluxed.

charlie fitton · #11 03-01-14, 12:39

wouldn't be in such a rush to swap over the pumps and such.

get the tranni off and treat it as a different project, it's not the right one anyway.

Get oil into the cylinders (tranni (atf) and acetone mix is rumored to work miracles), drain and fill the oil pan, crank it over by hand as much as you can, check that the valves are working, compression check, and go from there.

good luck.

maple_leaf_eh · #12 03-01-14, 15:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by universalgrl

My latest find, a complete 1940 Ford flathead engine and transmission last ran about 10 years ago, no evidence of water contamination in the oil so I think I got a good one.
I will install new water pumps, oil pump , fuel pump, a carb kit, new coil, points, condensers and anything else it may need.
I payed for it by collecting pop and beer bottles for three months.
I also have a lovely set of matching boat anchors, coffee table supports, book ends, planters etc. etc. for sale cheap!!
All of the blocks I have are drilled for the three oil gallery fittings.
The two spare blocks have to be pressured washed and magnafluxed.

As much as I hate beverage bottle deposits now, there was a time when I too got spending money a nickel and a dime at a time. In Saskatchewan, the province assigned a monopoly on processing to one of the dominant disabled communities, developmentally delayed (I think). Jobs and responsability plus income when people bring in their buckets and bins of cans and drink boxes. Quebec and Ontario have deposits on beer, wine and liquor bottles, and various collection streams.

maple_leaf_eh · #13 03-01-14, 15:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by universalgrl

...
An engine option is to use a VW TD turbo AZ motor and run it on canola oil, I can hear the howls from the purists already but it would be cheap to run. Of course that just an option.

Roberta

An alternative fuelled VW? Speak up. Are you talking about bio-diesel from French Fry oil, or glug glug glug ordinary cooking oil?