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#1
24-12-11, 03:43
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Fuel Line..M38A1 CDN1
Well all went well with the tank coating rebuild carb one more...however there is a small abrasion hole in the worst part of the fuel line front of the engine at the generator mount where it must have rubbed for years.
I managed to get it out...intact and with very little swearing! there is a small slot/hole maybe 1 mm in length and a hole although tiny pencil lead thickness it's enough to spill fuel...LOT'S! So not running yet. Can I clean that and give it a try with the mig or just JB weld it or 2 part epoxy? I know I can buy the tubing and bend a new one but the money is tight at this time and I really suck at good rolled flares! look forward to your ideas.
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490 Last edited by Casey B; 24-12-11 at 04:12. 
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#2
24-12-11, 04:29
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Casey, do it right the first time...
If it has one hole, it probably is close to having more. Liquids, like electricity, find the path of least resistance. Patch the weak spot and the next weak spot will give and so on. A piece of fuel line is cheap and surely a friend can do a flare or two for you. If I was in your neck of the woods I`d come right over and fix it up for you.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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#3
24-12-11, 04:42
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Oh Come on Chris don't let a little thing like milage get between friends...! LOLThanks for the advice. I knew it would be the latter..I wanted to see how many siad it or what came first!...What a fricken pain to bend that in that many directions with so many conections as well? Well I guess its off to the parts store then...LOL!
Merry Christmas to you all! Oh I am guessing they are double rolled flares as well?
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490
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#4
24-12-11, 04:46
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I have the proper double flaring tools myself, so i would just make up a new line.
For a temporary repair (likely only to last 20 years or so) is cut the line where the nick is, and install a compression union of the appropriate size. A less reliable fix would be to cut the line and install a short piece of rubber hose, but I would only envision 5 years out of that fix. Could this have been your problem all the time? The pump would have been sucking air, and starving the carb for fuel.
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#5
24-12-11, 06:03
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Yes I'll ask the neighbour down the road to do the flares once i get it in the spaghetti shape.
You may be right there Rob although i think it was when i had to bend it a little more to get the last fuel filter in to the end...It looked like it had been done a few times so who knows but the last few times was probably a smaller hole and then opened up when I bent it back a little more. Oh well it's inside now so fire up the stove and keep warm while I bend it and then curse to get it back in! Thanks fellas!
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490
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#6
24-12-11, 14:12
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Weld
Casey..
Rob is right..cut it at the leak..clean up both ends and put a compression fitting on and bobs your uncle.. barring that..and I am a refrigeration mechanic and deal with high pressure gas leaks for the last 45 years..and have used all kinds of methods to fix all kinds of leaks in all kinds of materials with all kind of fluids and gasses..so have a little experience.. My next suggestion and it would be quick is to stick weld it with eutectic 7018.. Try a bead a few inches away from the hole and test out your bead..once you are laying a nice bead start outside the crack and weld your bead right over the crack..give the bead a few extra mm from the end of the crack..undo your battery before you try to weld in place and if you can take the line off remove it and do it on the bench..other wise if not possible to remove undo one end or the pressure caused by the heat will blow out the weld.along with a bunch of flaming gasoline. Or whatever is in the line.. Maybe I would pre heat the line to be safe ..have a fire extinguisher handy.. Good luck.. Don't use soft solder unless you know what you are doing..a soft low temp silver solder that will stick to steel or stainless is available called Easy flo..used in the refrigeration industry..17000Pounds tensile strength so ideal for the job..I would use that because I have it..have been using it for years and would not use so much that it would run into the pipe and plug it..a problem when using easyflo..amateur mistake.. Good luck..If you have a buddy refrigeration mechanic..he could fix that up in no time.. Good luck. Merry Christmas.. here is some cowboy Christmas music to enjoy a little Brit humour.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VRw_...e_gdata_player
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#8
24-12-11, 21:12
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Agreed, rubber line for what I like to call the "quick and dirty"...
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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#9
25-12-11, 19:29
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Thanks again guys! Have the compression fitting and will go this route...I really just want it running will worry about the cosmetics later.
Might need it to plow the roads...? LOL Well okay to plow the rain water! Have a great Christmas and a very prosperous NEW YEAR! PS Rob I am heading back in to a reserve unit once papers are forwarded to Ottawa... so may be out your way at Shilo...oh boy! LOL All the best...from way out west!
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490
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