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  #31  
Old 06-02-18, 21:55
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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I'll probably be doing that. I still have to open up the transmission first. Also the fillingstation doesnt have that item in stock.

Would that gasket set be the one Id need?
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  #32  
Old 06-02-18, 22:29
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Gaskets......

There are only 3 gaskets that I remember...... the top cover which I did with a ball peen hammer and exacto. The other two can be traced on gasket paper for the PTO cover and the round input shaft flange. I got a set of hole punches from PA to speed up the process. In a pinch you can use heavy craft paper used for grocery bags or large HD leaf bags from garden centers. I like to coat the craft or gasket paper with silicon between thumb and index..... just a smear.... and let it dry before assembly.

Check your individual bearings for pitting as they are nasty for holding water over the years of sweating on the inside or rain water by the shifter.

Is your rear cover in good shape with all the bolts intact??? Just curious but what is the rear cover made of..... white metal or cast iron...... make sure you loctite the bolts to the short drive shaft u-joint bolts on the yoke.

Have fun.

Bob C
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  #33  
Old 06-02-18, 22:33
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Make your own from gasket paper of a thickness similar to what you take out (or a bit thicker to allow for some compression as you tighten the covers onto the case)? For the top cover, thickness isn't too critical. For the front and back covers you want to be close to original so that you don't add or remove much end clearance on the shafts. A variety of thicknesses should be available at any decent auto parts supplier, even some Canadian Tire stores....

It looks like Bob types faster than I do....
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  #34  
Old 07-02-18, 00:11
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Not only faster....

.... but not at work like you......

Got more parts for the grinder today.

Cheers
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  #35  
Old 07-02-18, 00:17
rob love rob love is offline
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I would not recommend experimenting with papers other than gasket material for gaskets. The old cornflake box will make a better wick than a gasket...it will draw the oils out. Whatever you can't get form Canadian tire you will get from NAPA.

Re the PTO plate, most PTOs follow a very standard size. As such, the gasket is available from many sources. Being that the plate is fairly thin, you will want a reasonably thick gasket.

On a Universal carrier I am re-doing at work, I put all new gaskets when I rebuilt the transmission, and the PTO plate leaked. I ordered the plate for an Allison transmission and the gasket for an LSVW. Worked out fine. I could have just used RTV, but I wanted to do it old school.

In this day and age, you can also get away with RTV for the majority of applications, especially if you apply it properly. Run a bead around both gasket surfaces, let it set for an hour, then put them together. As Grant mentions though, don't use it if the retainer acts as part of the dimensions for the bearing preload.
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  #36  
Old 09-02-18, 01:38
Bob Phillips Bob Phillips is offline
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Default gaskets

Just a word about gaskets..new technology has led me to have some intricate gaskets laser cut at the local "makers" shop. This is still a work in progress but I am trying to make gaskets for 975 radial engine carbs. All you need to do is take a photo and the tech guru can adjust to appropriate size.Rough/experimental gaskets can be cut out of regular paper until you get it right. Then use correct gasket paper. Only hitch is the guru does not want to use certain types of paper ie with rubber or compounds that burn abd make noxious fumes. BP
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  #37  
Old 09-02-18, 14:04
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Maybe the attached scans are of use for anyone wanting to make there own gaskets (please check size on normal paper first before using actual gasket paper!).
The brown coloured gaskets are the ones I made myself on gasket paper as suggested by Grant. The black ones are the ones that came from a set I bought (can't remember which supplier it came from).

I actually used the homemade ones, and ordered a set as a spare....just so I could continue with the gearbox.

Please note that there is some difference in the gasket for the prop shaft side between the ones I made myself and the one available commercially. The one I made myself was actually copied from the one that came from my gearbox when taking it apart.

Alex
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Gaskets gearbox1.pdf (647.0 KB, 27 views)
File Type: pdf Gaskets gearbox2.pdf (686.9 KB, 14 views)
File Type: pdf Gaskets gearbox3.pdf (888.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: pdf Gaskets gearbox4.pdf (998.5 KB, 14 views)
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  #38  
Old 09-02-18, 21:21
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Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Use the same approach.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex van de Wetering View Post
Maybe the attached scans are of use for anyone wanting to make there own gaskets (please check size on normal paper first before using actual gasket paper!).
The brown coloured gaskets are the ones I made myself on gasket paper as suggested by Grant. The black ones are the ones that came from a set I bought (can't remember which supplier it came from).

I actually used the homemade ones, and ordered a set as a spare....just so I could continue with the gearbox.

Please note that there is some difference in the gasket for the prop shaft side between the ones I made myself and the one available commercially. The one I made myself was actually copied from the one that came from my gearbox when taking it apart.

Alex
Hi Alex

I've been using a similar method to produce gaskets. My method is to scan into my computer at High Resolution either a new gasket or in the case of smaller parts putting the actual part on the scanner and scanning them. I then send the image from the computer to the printer which I load Manila Card Stock in and print out a nice full size gasket. Spray Permatex High Tack Spray on both sides, with two coats it saturates the card stock.

Your method of adding a ruler to the scan is a good double check on the size that the computer, or printer is not trying to out think us and re-scale things. Your PDFs are a good add to the MLU knowledge base. Have you already cross posted to the How-To heading?

Nice thing about this approach is you need a gasket you just go print one. How are you punching the holes?

Cheers Phil
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 09-02-18 at 21:23. Reason: wording
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  #39  
Old 09-02-18, 23:43
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Hi Phil,

I am using a variety of hole punches; a set with larger diameter punches in a red case as shown in the attachment, and another cheap Chinese set for smaller diameters. I am actually using the same set on rubber and canvas webbing as well....which works OK so far. Just make sure you are using the punch on a piece of soft wood, thick rubber or a cutting mat to protect the cutting edge from damaging.
Larger holes in the gasket are either cut by hand or done using the ball peen hammer method.

I always start with the holes and than cut the inside and outside contour of the gasket.....that works best for me. Doing it the other way round can lead to very thin areas in the gasket, or even cutting the gasket in half, if you punch the holes just a bit off.

Quote:
Have you already cross posted to the How-To heading?
I have only added tips from others so far, but should make some updates anyway

Quote:
Your method of adding a ruler to the scan is a good double check on the size that the computer, or printer is not trying to out think us and re-scale things
Yes, the function "scale to fit" is killing with this sort of stuff....it's easy to miss and your print may look 100%, but may actually be 98,7%!


Alex
Attached Thumbnails
s-l640.jpg   silverline-6-delige-gatenpons-set.jpg  
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  #40  
Old 20-12-19, 22:59
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default i.ve looked

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex van de Wetering View Post
Here is a picture of the replacement I bought from ebay. The top one is the original ( I am trying to show that it has a bit too much play between the parts.....), the lower one is the replacement.



Yes, and also other differences....like the number of balls in the bearing...or the material; I recently bought a replacement seal that was a full rubber part, while the original was steel with leather (or felt....can't remember).

Alex
and i can't find a post where anybody has a part number for the cage bearing, maybe I'm daft.... okay assume I'm daft, but I still can't find a part number.
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  #41  
Old 20-12-19, 23:56
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Harry. Here is what I used.

It measures just under 1-1/2 long.

93424
Attached Thumbnails
29FD5523-75FF-46D7-A862-B3F10D695C38.jpeg  
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  #42  
Old 21-12-19, 00:58
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default Thanks Jordon

perfect, I'll go look
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  #43  
Old 27-12-19, 20:19
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default 7/8 x 1 1/4 x 1 1/2 93424

Usually available on Ebay....

Last batch of four for about $10.00 US each..... shared with Gordon Yeo.

They do come up regularly....original made by Hyatt now SKF and others.... but you get better results by just searching bearings 93424.

Good luck
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  #44  
Old 28-12-19, 02:30
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default Cage bearing

I used that number and came up with several vendors.
Thanks for the help.
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  #45  
Old 28-12-19, 09:19
John 4172 John 4172 is offline
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Default Ball bearing numbering systems

The vast majority of deep grove ball bearings use METRIC sizes.

the last 2 digits of the indicate the bore size.

04 equals 20 mm bore
05 equals 25 mm bore
07 equals 35 mm bore and so on up to 99

60 62 63 and 64 are comonly used to replace older series numbers

62 series is the most common series.
60 and 618 are smaller section bearings , smaller balls.
63 and 64 series bearings are bigger, heavier.

6203 is the comon generator / alternator bearing 17 x 40 x12 mm.
6207 is a comon front gearbox bearing 35 x 72 x 17.

Z or 2Z = shields.
N = circlip grove.

there are pages of other suffixes .
I hope this helps,
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