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  #1  
Old 12-05-22, 11:33
RichardT10829's Avatar
RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
Richard Harrison
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cullercoats Newcastle Upon Tyne United Kingdom
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Default UC MK2* front idler pin extrication

I finally got time to do my own carrier, first time in maybe two or so years.. I have started stripping down the drivers side running gear, all going well up to the point I went to remove my front idler wheel from the axle.

I struggled to get the castellated nut off, heat applied and it let go, only thing is it has taken the threads with it….I cannot underestimate the horror I was filled with when I saw what had happened… I have concluded that the nut has either dragged remains of the cotter pin into the threads (although I did check the hole was clear) or for some reason, maybe 70+ years in the weather has caused the threads to let go.

I can have the pin machined it isn’t a deal breaker, but my question is this, has anyone extricated a pin from the cast housing before ? If so what was the method ?

I can’t risk damaging the casting, that would be horrific.

Any advice or tales involving the process would be appreciated.

I presume they are shrink fitted and it’s a case of gentle heat on the cast to release the pin, but I want to check with you guys first.


Cheers

Richie
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1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
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1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
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  #2  
Old 13-05-22, 10:50
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
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Default

Hi Richie, I have changed the stub in a casting. I cant remember what I did. I think I heated it and tried my small useless press, then I took it to a bigger press and pushed it out cold. It went with a bang. I had to do two of course. The casting of one was pretty shite and the other one had a slightly bent stub axle.

I suggest you set up in a press so that you support the casting as best you can close to the stub. I would previously heat the casting and introduce a penetrating oil (trans oil and acetone?), the day before. Then warm up the housing just before pressing it. You know the drill, I'm surprised you're asking.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
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  #3  
Old 13-05-22, 20:13
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RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
Richard Harrison
 
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I just wanted to make sure I hadn’t missed anything bud.

I have hit it with penetrating oil and will get some heat / press action on the go.

Cheers for shouting up bud.
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__5th Div___46th Div__
1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
War Department CT54508 (SOLD)
1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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  #4  
Old 14-05-22, 00:15
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Richie, are you going to weld it up and machine a new thread on it? It is a shame the seal track is part of the casting. If it is a mess, maybe you machine it off and make a press fit seal track to go on the stubb axle?
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #5  
Old 14-05-22, 07:52
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Default The Dilemma

I know you have already stuffed the thread...... but quite often I have encountered this dilemma about whether you can remove the cotter pin and try and "save" everything or sacrifice the nut , nip bot sides with the gas , and crack off with the cold chisel, saves a lot of grief, Cheers.
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