dashboard resistors

[BCA]

I have been playing with voltage dividers from the T16 instrument panel. They consist of an insulated block on which there are mounted 2 resistor with metal grills, in series. A single similar-looking resistor is in the Canadian Mk2 Carrier panel. I'm not sure what is in a Mk1 panel. Lots of Ford products probably used these to reduce the voltage for the coil. In the T16, which is 12 volts, I think one resistor reduces voltage to be suitable for the gauges and the 2nd resistor is for the coil.
Has anyone measured the resistance any of the resistors use on Canadian Carriers or the American T16? I am hoping for some interchange since I have extra T16 resistors: my cheap ohmmeter says one is 4 ohms and one is 7 ohms. Similar to Mk1 or Mk 2 ??
... Brian

[rob love]

Brian
I apologize for the late response, but I am currently wiring my mk1 dash, and was just replacing the resistor/fuze assembly today.

I got a new assembly from Mac's auto and measured the resistance of both the original and the new one. Both measured at 4 ohms. In the case of the mk1, the resistor would be for the reduction in voltage to the coil.

The screws on the new one will not be any good for the carrier (too log and too bright), so I will have to salvage the old ones. You also have to salvage the old spacer/insulator for underneath this assy. But otherwise it is spot on. FUC=03 lists it as 11A-12250 although Mac's part number is 47-14615-1 with an alternate of 40-12250-A.

[Mike Cecil]

I thought the Ford system was a (1) system circuit breaker and (2) a resistor for reduction of voltage from 6 to 4.5 volts for the coil - not two resistors.

The image shown shows a (repro?) item the same as available from Macs Ford Parts. It consists of a a fuse holder (which acts as a one-time circuit breaker) where normally a cage with a mechanical circuit breaker was located. The other end is the resistor (6 V to 4.5 V).

Or have my many years of Ford experience deserted me and I've got this completely c****d up??

Mike C

[Mike Kelly]

Hi

One thing to watch out for is , if they are wire wound resistors ,typically made with nichrome wire , the resistance value will change as the resistor heats up . There will be both cold and hot ohm values .

You might be better off using a solid state device mounted on a heatsink .

Those Ford ignition systems are a pain in the bum .

[Lynn Eades]

I am waiting for a definitive answer to Brian's question, from someone.

Mike C. the LP2 carrier has the resistor for the coil (6v to 4.5 v) and the vibrating regulator for the generator if my memory serves me correctly.
This depends on the type of generator (2 or 3 brush) I think the other type has the cut out in the dash unit. I may be wrong about this. I can't remember.

Mike K. That is how it was supposed to work with Henry's set up.
When you turn on the key, you get 6 volts to the coil, which equals (hopefully) a big fat spark while cranking to start (It might drop anyhow because of the load)
A few seconds on, the Nichrome wire has heated up (the guard has a purpose) generating its internal resistance to flow, and dropping the output voltage to 4.5 volts, the operating voltage of the old Ford ignition systems.

Brian. I imagine you are on the right track. The Ford commercial gauges were the same for all (early?)vehicles, either 6 or 12 volt. The 12 volt vehicles had the resistors fitted to the back of the instrument cluster.
Macs sell them, and you need 3 of them for the fuel, oil, and temp gauges. I understand there is a more expensive single unit that will do all three.
Can you post photos, details (resistance) and a price for what you have for sale, please?
It would be interesting to know what the operating voltage of the T16 coil is.
If it is 9 volts, then it will have a resistor. It's all about an easy starting system.

What I learned from Mike K. tonight is that it is called Nichrome NOT the lifetimes misconception that it was Michrome wire.

BTW Rob, you can buy the Nichrome wire, if you wanted to rewind your original resistor.

[Mike Cecil]

Ni Chrome - Nickel-chromium wire, freely available in various gauges.

vibrating regulator? enlighten me, please.

The voltage regulator is a big rectangular box, on a different mount from my experience.

Mike C

[rob love]

On the mk1, according to my wiring diagram, the illustrated item serves two functions. Power comes from the ignition switch (terminal C on the switchboard) to the top of the fuse holder. From there it goes to two places. A jumper runs down from the top terminal of the fuse holder thru the resister and on to the coil. The power from the top terminal also goes thru the fuse and on to the hot terminal of the two gauges.

As a result of this setup, the gauges are protected by a suitable fuse. The coil circuit is not protected.

There is another single fuse box nearby that protects the lighting circuit. I'll try and get some photos later today. In both cases the fuses are a little different in their design, which would seem to allow the repair of them by the user.

I had a google at the part number of 11A-12250, which is what FUC-3 calls for, and it is indeed a breaker and resistor assy like I have always seen on the cmp trucks. I am not certain that part would even fit in the tight confine of the mk1 control panel. It may have been a change up from the earlier control panels as well. My original fuse holder/resistor would appear to have been on this panel for a very very long time.

[Jordan Baker]

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...?t=2189&page=7

Post 196 has a couple of pictures off all original resistors and fuse assemblies that came out of a Mk1 dash. I cleaned them up and they worked fine in my carrier.

[Keith Webb]

I have some of these available new old stock. The resistor is the same as used on all Fords of the era, the voltage cut out and this particular installation is part 11A-12250-A. The parts book informs it fits 1941-46 passenger and trucks.
Price is A$40 plus postage.

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...?t=2189&page=7

Post 196 has a couple of pictures off all original resistors and fuse assemblies that came out of a Mk1 dash. I cleaned them up and they worked fine in my carrier.

Your dash appears identical to mine in layout and components. I note the cover on the larger fuse holder is Ford Motor Company marked on the inside of mine. Not sure if Ford merely copied the Lucas part, or if they even had Lucas make them up with Ford's name on them.

[Michael R.]

T16 resistors, Windsor bits too!

[BCA]

I just measured the resistor on a Mk2 panel: This resistor which stands alone without a fuse block, (unlike the Mk1 resistor which also has a fuse block) measures a bit under 1 Ohm. The trick would be have it in a running carrier and see if the voltage at the coil was about 4.5 ohms. Rob: you said your resistor measures 4 Ohms; chatter on other vintage Ford flathead sites suggest this may be too high and cause the coil to receive too low a voltage. When you get it all assembled and running then test the voltage at the coil and see if it is 4.5 volts.
It would appear that the Windsor Carrier and the T16 Carrier, both being 12 volt vehicles use a "voltage divider": 2 resistors on a mounting block (see Michael R's photo). Two chores are necessary: drop 12 volts to 6 volts for the gauges, and drop 12 volts to 4.5 volts for the coil (assuming the Windsor and T16 coils like 4.5 volts.) I can't prove this theory since the T16 wiring diagram is very poor and I do not have a Windsor wiring diagram.
The resistors on the T16 voltage divider are different: one is about 4.5 ohms and the other is about 6.5 ohms. If they are useful for other applications then I have them in stock..... Brian

[Euan McDonald]

I have restored my dash as per the manual wiring diagram and used the original circuit breaker and one of Keith's NOS ignition resistor. I also found a NOS voltage reg, not sure if its a vibrating reg?

[Mike Kelly]

Originally Posted by Euan McDonald

, not sure if its a vibrating reg?

They might be refering to the vibrating points in the voltage reg. circuit ? I think these devices also have vibrating points as current limiters ? The other of the three contact is the battery isolator. Mike

BTW you can salvage Ni chrome wire from old domestic electric heater elements , and custom design your own resistors to suit your needs . The former needs to be ceramic or some other heat tolerant material.