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  #1  
Old 26-05-13, 11:03
arie teomim arie teomim is offline
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Default track removal

HI ALL,
In order to do the brack work I will need to remove the tracks. when I tryed to pull the pin, I realized that there is pressure on the pin, i do have the original tool that with a hammer pushes the pin out, but, I am concerned that beacase of the pressure, the tool will stuck.
and if that so, how do I the pin back??
thanks
arie
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  #2  
Old 26-05-13, 11:26
motto motto is offline
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Have you backed off the track tension arie? And do you own or have access to a track winch?

David
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Last edited by motto; 26-05-13 at 13:56. Reason: Stupid spellcheck thinks it knows better
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  #3  
Old 26-05-13, 12:01
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Default Arie

You could try using a load binder strap. I have heard of one being used as a track winch. The place you want to break the track should be below the sprocket.
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  #4  
Old 26-05-13, 13:13
shaun shaun is offline
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Hi, i always use a ratchet load strap and 2 hook chains. works a dream ! having used the origanal "track jack" i found they were pretty usless. Watch those fingers when the track lets go !!!!! i can hav a track off and on in aboutt 10 mins using this system ( if the pins are free)
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  #5  
Old 27-05-13, 19:13
Hans Mulder Hans Mulder is offline
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I use a cargo ratchet strap and not knowing any better, I break the track halfway between the front idler and the return idler. Usually takes me 15 min to break it, pull out a link or two, and retighten.
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  #6  
Old 27-05-13, 20:23
arie teomim arie teomim is offline
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I have not backed the track tension yet. must i ?? and if i do, how do i stretch back?
thanks
arie
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  #7  
Old 27-05-13, 20:47
Hans Mulder Hans Mulder is offline
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There are three nuts holding the front idler bracket. If you loosen them off a couple of turns, it should allow the idler to slide back, loosening the track somewhat. There may also be a pawl (toothed bar) that you can tap upwards with a hammer after the nuts are loose to release the bracket. To tighten the track afterwards, you can put the "shepherd's crook", a track adjuster cam, or even a crow bar and block behind the horizintal bar attached to the bracket at the front of your hull, and tighten up the track, then tighten up the nuts.

Good luck! First time took me 35 mins per side...you get better at it.
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  #8  
Old 27-05-13, 23:46
rob love rob love is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arie teomim View Post
I have not backed the track tension yet. must i ?? and if i do, how do i stretch back?
thanks
arie
Removing track tension on almost any tracked vehicle (including M113s and M109s) is a must before breaking track.

It would also be nearly impossible to re-join the track without the tensioner being backed right off.
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  #9  
Old 28-05-13, 09:41
shaun shaun is offline
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A veteran was told me the way he use to tension the track in the field, and boy does it work well.

Drive up to a sturdy tree, put a sturdy rope or chain through the front idler and then around the tree. And then very slowly back up .

I have tried this method, works very well !! Just go slow.
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Shaun Hindle

Morris C8
Ford GPW jeep 1945
Morris 1000 (ex mil)
SAS LSV
Harley Davidson MT 350 motor cycle
Universal carrier MK 1*1943 Ronson (under restoration)
Universal carrier MK 2* 1944 (Puddle Jumper HSK 345)
Ferret MK 1/1 1956
Ferret MK 2/4 1958
CVR(T) Scorpion
432 MK2
Daimler MK1 armoured car 1943
(winner best wheeled armour W&P show 2011)
Daimler Dingo MK2 1944 (awaiting restoration, aquired 11/12/2011)
Fordson WOT 3 D 1940 (awaiting restoration )
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  #10  
Old 28-05-13, 15:26
rob love rob love is offline
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Track tension is on a fine line. Too little and you throw track, too much and you cause undue strain to the track components. I have never had a problem simply using a prybar or the cam adjusting tool to achieve the proper tension. Reproduction track adjuster cams are available from Midwest military. They make the adjustment a breeze.
http://www.midwestmilitary.net/brencarrier.html
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Last edited by rob love; 28-05-13 at 20:54.
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  #11  
Old 28-05-13, 16:54
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charlie fitton charlie fitton is offline
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Default Track Tension..

I built a puller ( actually a pusher ) from a scissor jack and a few appropriately shaped bits of hardwood .... Stows under the co-pilot seat and is always available.

Also a simple piece of ply to gauge the track tension.

Easy as cake.
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  #12  
Old 28-05-13, 18:36
Hans Mulder Hans Mulder is offline
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Those are some great points, if your track is too tight, you also limit the travel of your suspension, and you put alot of tension on 70 year old track pins and links.
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