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  #1  
Old 13-05-05, 05:20
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Front axle...bearing removal ......

Need more help advice and or prayers.....

I can't remove the bearing from the inside of the front axle brake drum...... h*** I can't even find the previous thread to which someone responded with a page copy of the shop manual.

I have washed most of the grease from the cavity..... I have used grade 8 bolts..... but not to the point of breaking a bolt or stripping the thread...... I have used and destroyed a brass punch....... I have reverted to a steel punch and flared the tip slightly from hammering and had to screw the punch out following the thread...... but I have not finished praying yet.....

Wot ham eye du-hing rung!!!!! I really want to remove and properly inspect and clean. When you hit the punch with a hammer it bounces back as if you were hitting a solid massive chunk of steel....... and tried both brake drums...???

Frustrated!!!

Bob C.
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  #2  
Old 14-05-05, 13:47
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Three grade 8 bolts

I have always been able to remove the drum bearings without much fuss by screwing three grade 8 bolts (correct size and thread) into the three cap bolt holes and then tightening them down a little at a time in rotation. Generally use the air ratchet wrench giving each bolt just a little twist at a time.

The grade 8 bolts are because once broke a grade 5 off at the end of the threads, not a problem because there was enough sticking out to grab and remove. Generally use about a 3 inch or any thing longer that has enough thread so as to not run out of thread.

If yours is being difficult, carefully measure down through the bolt holes to check to see if the bearing has gotten slightly cocked. If so I’d flip it over and drive in home with a block of wood and start again.
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  #3  
Old 14-05-05, 14:35
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
"Mr. Manual", sadly no longer with us
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Ottawa ,Canada
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Default Re: Front axle...bearing removal ......

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Carriere
Need more help advice and or prayers.....

I can't remove the bearing from the inside of the front axle brake drum...... h*** I can't even find the previous thread to which someone responded with a page copy of the shop manual.

I have washed most of the grease from the cavity..... I have used grade 8 bolts..... but not to the point of breaking a bolt or stripping the thread...... I have used and destroyed a brass punch....... I have reverted to a steel punch and flared the tip slightly from hammering and had to screw the punch out following the thread...... but I have not finished praying yet.....

Wot ham eye du-hing rung!!!!! I really want to remove and properly inspect and clean. When you hit the punch with a hammer it bounces back as if you were hitting a solid massive chunk of steel....... and tried both brake drums...???

Frustrated!!!
Bob
Am I assuming you have the outer race seized in the housing??
If so ..tighten down the three pusher bolts on the pesky,rusted,seized,^$&*#(*#^&@ outer bearing race...Then take the red wrench and start to heat around the ouside of the housing...
When it is hot enough it will let go(You should hear it) and you can continue the removal process with the pusher bolts with ease..
10 Minutes work on a bad day..Why didn't you give me a call ..After 45 years of mechanic-ing there aren't too many rusty things that can stump me for removal or destruction..
Can't heat it..??
Do step one..with the bolts..
Use your vibrating impact hammer(Not the chisel bit,the hammer bit),air or electric around the outside of the housing...
Same results..
Heat or vibration..Takes them off every time..
I might be able to get my mechanic to come out..
I know he know lots of stuff about chain..
http://www.funnyclicks.com/pictures1/nose_chain.jpg


Bob C.
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  #4  
Old 14-05-05, 20:58
rob love rob love is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,517
Default

I'll second the call for heat. I've used a propane torch on bearings to warm them up and the bearing will suffer no ill results. The trick is to warm the bearing and not the hub it is located on. You could also cool the inner portion of the hub (here in Manitoba we would use snow; it snowed again last night, leacing small drifts here and there) just to make the difference.

Anything heated red enough will let go eventually, even if it was never meant to.
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  #5  
Old 15-05-05, 02:54
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Whose on first......

Now who should I comment to first.......

Alex..... good picture..... looks like the other end of the chain is tied fast to some tender part of his lower anatomy......

Ok... I will borrow the heating pad from my Mom and the vibrator from the neighbours' wife and see if that works.

Seriously.... I have tried the grade 8 bolts but chickened out to soon I guess....... will have to try again....... with heat.

Now Rob, Phil and Alex..... I am afraid of damaging the bearing by applying heat...source is not a problem I have propane ... oxy-acetelyne.....and I realized that it is the race that must be heated of preference and not the shaft...could even shove ice cubes down the hollow shaft...... just scared of damaging the bearing.

Heck I even re read the MB manual..... which says to clean the bearing and polish the shaft with 1 1/2 inch wide emery paper taking care to cover the bearing cage with a rag..... polish my eye if it is stuck fast above the polish area it will not move much.

Now maybe some moderate heat....ice cubes in the middle and using the air impact hammer plus the impact wrench simulteneously.....ah... with two hands....say again.. where do I stick the broom handle in while doing all this......

Ok.... will try again tomorrow and see if I can do it in how many minutes again Alex.......

I just hate breaking or damaging thing.......

...and Phil.... one more questions....... how did you remove you pivot pins on the front axle...... I intend to use ( have to find one first) a 7/16 fine thread bolt down the middle of a large 3/4 inch socket to pull it out..... comments....hard to find fine thread bolts at Home depot on a Sunday....

I taking apart my axle I found NO shims inside the pivot pin cap.... according to the book it should have at least a .030 shim + absolute Nada... on top and bottom.... leads me to beleive it was disassembled before........ what did you find in yours.... I will follow the book to re-assemble tightly.

Next question ..... Where did you source the felt seal and spring??? I have some for the power wagons axles but it is almost twice the size.... is it available from supply house by the roll????? that axle design is still used today in various trucks/axle models I beleive......

Thanks for all the help and moral support guys.....

Bob C.

Alex if I fail again... do you do house calls????
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  #6  
Old 15-05-05, 04:54
cmperry4's Avatar
cmperry4 cmperry4 is offline
aka C. Mark Perry (CMP)
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Following the thread with interest as I have yet to extract the bearings from either my front or rear HUP hubs. I did some whacking with a hammer and long brass drift, as per the manual, but nothing budged. A bit of heat and the press have got some other things moving for me, but the hubs are too big to fit in my press, so it's back to hammering eventually (or application of various tips herein).
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  #7  
Old 15-05-05, 05:15
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Misery loves company....

So I see I am not the only one fooling around with bearings....

Rear axle is a breeze...... nothing complicated there.... bearing come out on there own... the races need to be driven out with a brass drift/punch. Luckily all my bearing are good so far.... that is why I hesitate to use heat on the front bearing.

Keep us posted of your success or frustrations......

... I will try my hand at it again tomorrow.


Alex and company...... when I take my brake drums in for turning will I need to have the bearings installed for them to align properly on the lathe...... I doubt any of the regular modern brake lathe would accommodate the CMP massive bulky format. National Brake and Clutch are going to reline my shoes, trun the drums and radius the shoes to match for maximum contact thereby eliminating all or most of the breakin period and tedious multiple adjustments.

Bob C.
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  #8  
Old 15-05-05, 14:44
Alex Blair (RIP) Alex Blair (RIP) is offline
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Location: Ottawa ,Canada
Posts: 2,916
Default Re: Misery loves company....

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Carriere
So I see I am not the only one fooling around with bearings....

Rear axle is a breeze...... nothing complicated there.... bearing come out on there own... the races need to be driven out with a brass drift/punch. Luckily all my bearing are good so far.... that is why I hesitate to use heat on the front bearing.

Keep us posted of your success or frustrations......

... I will try my hand at it again tomorrow.


Alex and company...... when I take my brake drums in for turning will I need to have the bearings installed for them to align properly on the lathe...... I doubt any of the regular modern brake lathe would accommodate the CMP massive bulky format. National Brake and Clutch are going to reline my shoes, trun the drums and radius the shoes to match for maximum contact thereby eliminating all or most of the breakin period and tedious multiple adjustments.

Bob C.
Bob
I can see I may have to do a house call..Give me a call...
Or an e-mail..
Should I bring my bearing puller...?????
If you have oxy-actylene then I don't need mine...
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  #9  
Old 15-05-05, 17:20
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default I tried....

Can't seem to be able to use a bearing puller.... I have 3 or 4 different models but there is not enough room around the bottom of the bearing to get a good grip.......

Will try some heat and grade 8 bolts and maybe the impact hammer..... if all else fails I will get a beer.

Bob
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  #10  
Old 16-05-05, 07:16
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cmperry4 cmperry4 is offline
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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Default

I was told today by someone who knows, to use a steel, not brass, drift to get the things moving.
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  #11  
Old 25-05-05, 03:11
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Success...... at last....

Well I finally got my bearing out of the front brake drum without breaking anything.......

I used drift punch....steel.... and patiently hammered five blows in each of the 3 hole.... using a small ballpein hammer..... after about the 5 times around the sound changed and the bearing slipped out. Bothe bearing look good.... now I can wash them and properly repack with grease before pressing them back in with the hydraulic press.

Thanks for all the advice.

Bob C.
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