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  #961  
Old 21-08-21, 05:49
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Forgot to post these pictures up the other day.

The quick release knobs used in the Wire3 had large washers and chain to act as keepers. I ended up using a handheld punch setup in the shop press to punch the small hole into the washers. The chain wire was then passed through the small hole and then the wire was welded up. I decided to do a number of practice welds first and I am glad I did. I had the Mig welder down to the lowest heat and speed settings to get them welded up. If I lingered the wire heated up too much and would evaporate.
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  #962  
Old 21-08-21, 05:51
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Lastly, I noticed after painting that one of the seat trays was missing the rear Lift the Dot stud. So I riveted in a new one after setting up a backing plate for the stud die.
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  #963  
Old 21-08-21, 06:34
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default Wire 3 vs wire 5

Examining the holes in the floor of my wire % i think it might have used the same setup...?
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  #964  
Old 21-08-21, 09:09
Chris Suslowicz Chris Suslowicz is offline
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You're making a beautiful job of this restoration.



Chris.
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  #965  
Old 21-08-21, 14:23
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
Forgot to post these pictures up the other day.

The quick release knobs used in the Wire3 had large washers and chain to act as keepers. I ended up using a handheld punch setup in the shop press to punch the small hole into the washers. The chain wire was then passed through the small hole and then the wire was welded up. I decided to do a number of practice welds first and I am glad I did. I had the Mig welder down to the lowest heat and speed settings to get them welded up. If I lingered the wire heated up too much and would evaporate.
The HUW uses the same chain for a bunch of locking pins and screw keepers. The chain is brazed on rather than welded which would have been easier than welding for the heat reason you say.
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  #966  
Old 29-08-21, 05:32
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Had the C15a out to its first event. I drove the truck there and back home. Each way was about 1.5hrs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5T2_1tsIrs

The above is some nice video while driving inthe city
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  #967  
Old 29-08-21, 14:07
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Now that's different

Hi Jordan

Now I think that is a first on MLU, aeial of CMP on the move. Not a drown shot, so did you preposition an observe?

Cheers Phil
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  #968  
Old 29-08-21, 14:53
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Hi Phil

It was filmed by my dad from his place. He knew we’d be going by and waited.
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  #969  
Old 03-09-21, 03:50
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The joys of old trucks. Doing maintenance. Last week I drained and fill the diffs to change out the gear oil. However I overfilled the rear diff and ended up noticing gear oil draining from the drip hole on the brake backing plate. There was also some staining and the odd time a small dribble from the axle end on the hub. Today I pulled it all apart to do some cleanup and get it so it isn’t leaking. Thankfully the inner cone did its job and kept and leaking oil from getting into the brake drum or on the shoes.

Tomorrow I hope to be getting everything back together again.
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  #970  
Old 03-09-21, 09:52
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Jordan if you install outer hub seals, that will restrict the oil to the axle tube. This means you can pack your bearings with grease, which baring a major failure, means you should never have oil getting to your brakes.
I say this for those that don't know (because I know you do) Make sure you clean out inside the shield and the tell tale hole.
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  #971  
Old 03-09-21, 11:54
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Jordan,
I don't know whether this may be part of the issue or not. M35 and M135 series trucks used a cork seal (wedge shaped) in the keyway/groove highlighted by the arrow in your 3rd picture above. The wedge/insert was claimed to be part of the sealing to keep lubricants where they belonged. The attached diagram lifted from the web is one of the clearest I've seen to date showing where the wedge sits. There are also web posts claiming that a blob of silicone can replace the wedge.

I don't see a reference to the wedge seal in the C15A parts list but I may not have been looking in the right area of the list or might not have recognized what the list called it.... so I'm not sure whether the CMPs used such a seal.
Having said that the seal may be used and might be significant, I don't recall if my C15A has them but I certainly dont recall making them as suggested by many from old valve cover gasket material , or from sheet cork gasket material.
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  #972  
Old 03-09-21, 13:50
rob love rob love is offline
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My understanding is that the cork gets pinched in between the two tabs of the washer and the seal. That is the way I have been doing it for the past 40 years. The corks are not tapered on either end. I have dozens in their packages at work, so these are factory design originals as opposed to the cut valve covers.

Edited to add: Grant, I checked the MLVW manual and the illustration you have is wrong. The cork goes in between the seal's tab and the tab washers inner tab.

Not sure the Chev ever had the cork, but it would help if the truck for some reason leaned enough to let the oil get in to the top of the spindle, or was splashing it to the point of putting oil onto the top of the adjusting nuts.

In Jordans case, we were having email discussion on this, and he had filled his diff to the edge of the filler hole. Normally you go one knuckle lower to allow for expansion, and even a half inch lower won't hurt, but will help prevent leaks. And of course, the breather valve must be clean.

Last edited by rob love; 03-09-21 at 21:45.
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  #973  
Old 03-09-21, 17:18
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So I went through my box of parts and pulled out a some NOS outer seals. Thought I would compare the two. Take off is on the left and NOS on the right. There is about 1.5mm difference between the two. When I dry fit the two seals in the diff there is noticeable looseness with the takeoff one. I figure that between this seal and the overfilling of the diff that’s where my problem was coming from.
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  #974  
Old 03-09-21, 22:49
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Everything is back on with freshly repacked bearings. The NOS outer seal was a much better fit (tight against the hub) and I now understand how these parts work.

Thanks all for the help. When I refill the diff up I’ll be sure to keep it lower then I did.
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  #975  
Old 03-09-21, 23:51
rob love rob love is offline
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The outer seals are leather. They should be soaked in oil for a few hours before installation.
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  #976  
Old 04-09-21, 09:06
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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In the Ford Hub (larger CMPs) as with Carriers, there is also the metal seals alternative (steel inner, cast iron? outer)
Usually if there is no outer hub seal, then the diff cavity is separated by a seal in the axle tube that runs on the axle.
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  #977  
Old 04-09-21, 12:37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Suslowicz View Post
You're making a beautiful job of this restoration.



Chris.
I agree. I have been following this restoration from its beginning.
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  #978  
Old 04-09-21, 18:24
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Thanks for the compliments. I’ve had a lot of fun restoring this truck and learned an incredible amount of skills with it.


Rob, these seals seem to be a cloth/rubber combination for the sealing lip.
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  #979  
Old 24-09-21, 12:01
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Default Dome light wiring

Quote:
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David.

I just realized I didn’t take a picture of the mounts I made up. Basically it’s 2”x 1/8” thick flat stock. Ends are bent 90deg on both ends. This fits across the width of the wooden body. Two woods screws on both bent ends screw into the lamp. This bracket would get bolted to the roof sheet metal then the lamp inserted and the wood screws screwed in. In my case I needed to make another piece that fit over the canopy tubing. I made up a stamping die and pressed some out in the shop press. The top stamped piece fits around the canopy tube and then two bolts are used to secure the top piece to the lamp bracket.

As for the lamp, yes there are few different holes in it.

The red circle is for the power in wire. It goes directly to the push/pull switch. It has a quick connect GM connection.

The green arrow is where the push pull switch mounts.

The blue circle is a socket accessible only from the outside of the lamp. It gets wired to the switch. I believe it was used to fit the plug from a trouble light or provide remote power to another lamp or some other accessory. I’m not sure if it should always be live or only live when the light is on.

The yellow arrow is the lamp socket.

The red arrow is a screw that holds the tinned metal reflector in place. It goes right through the wooded body and has a double nut on the backside. This also acts as the hookup for the ground to complete the electrical circuit.
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Hi Jordan,

I think I found out how the socket was supposed to be wired. According to a schematic in the MACH-ZL manual, the output wire from the switch goes to the lamp and the socket. So the socket is only powered when the light is on.
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It looks like that this was not always the case though. The NOS dome lights that came with my truck both have a short cable that plugs into the socket. So it looks like that the socket could also be used as input for the dome light (easy to do, just connect the socket wire to the input of the switch)
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One question: How did you find out that these use an ARK-LES push/pull switch? It looks like that the NOS lights did not come with switches.
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Last edited by M.Morren; 24-09-21 at 13:18.
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  #980  
Old 24-09-21, 14:48
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Interesting find with the wiring diagram. It makes sense that the plug socket wouldn’t be live unless the switch is on. I’m not sure how the pigtails worked or what the purpose for them was being so short.

As for the Arkless switch. I picked up a few take off lights from a few different sources and they had those switches. The switches had been over painted with paint matching on the wooden base. I found the rest of my switches on eBay.
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  #981  
Old 24-09-21, 15:42
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Dove into my manual again and found that the switch wasn't even mentioned in the parts/equipment list. It was added manually in this one.
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I also found some more proof of the originality of the ARK-LES Heavy Duty switch. A switch, which closely resembles the one you found, was drawn In one of the 3 "Location Of Equipment" drawings. (on the left side of the dome light)
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This is enough evidence for me to start looking for them.
Thank you for sharing the info on the switches (And everything else in this thread!)
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  #982  
Old 15-12-22, 03:41
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It’s been a long time posting any updates on this truck. Partly it’s been that most of the truck is done and there is just small details to work on. However 2022 has been mostly spent on building a new home for the vehicles. I’ll post a separate thread on the shop shortly. But for now a teaser……
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  #983  
Old 15-12-22, 05:27
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default So what are the dimensions........

....looks like 30 x 50 with a full second floor.

Make sure it is fire proof!!!!
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  #984  
Old 10-07-23, 05:51
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This past year and a half the truck has not been out much. The last time it was out, the carb gave a lot of issues. So tonight I decided to pull it apart for a rebuild. Well I’m glad I did, as the bowl and passages were full of rust flakes. The lower body was totally stripped down. This is now currently soaking in a tub of Evaporust. Hopefully this will get the passages cleaned up
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  #985  
Old 10-07-23, 19:26
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After soaking the lower body in evaporust over night I’m happy to report that the majority of the rust is gone. This morning I took the parts over to a friend’s shop as he has a vapour blasting cabinet. He uses it for rebuilding snow mobile and motorcycle engines. The parts cleaned extremely well and the top parts look like NOS parts. The only down side is that the cast lower bodies flash rust. However I’m doing another 24hrs in evaporust.
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  #986  
Old 11-07-23, 05:07
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Fuel filter......?

Are you not running a fuel filter on that truck.......??? I am a great fan of the glass bowl fuel filter of the early 50s......immediately before the carb.......

I do use an original frame mounted filter on the C15a but this one I can see.....same applies to my old 40s Allis Chalmers tractor..... you can see the dirt and the water in the bottom of the bowl......which reminds me to drain the frame mounted filter next time I grease her up.
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  #987  
Old 11-07-23, 15:11
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The rust issue was internal on the carb itself. So an external filter would not have helped.
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  #988  
Old 14-07-23, 05:05
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Nearly finished. Tonight was zinc plating a bunch of the stamped parts and fasteners
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  #989  
Old 14-07-23, 09:00
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Quote:
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Nearly finished. Tonight was zinc plating a bunch of the stamped parts and fasteners
Is zinc plating a DIY process?
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  #990  
Old 24-07-23, 13:52
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Well I’m happy to report the carb rebuild went very well. Last week when I reinstalled it it had a poor idle performance. I realized that the low speed jet that I installed from the kit was different than the one I removed from the carb. So I took it out and replaced it. I also blew some high pressure air through the passages to make sure they were clear. Once back on the truck it idles very well. I took the truck for a drive down the road. All was great except for a flat spot on acceleration. I know the pump jet is good as the leather was replaced and I get a steady stream of fuel when push the throttle arm. If I feather the pedal the truck accelerates as per usual. Once up to speed the truck cruises quite nicely at 40-45mph.

With this confidence I took the truck on a drive for the OMVA showing at the Brantford Military Museum. It was a 126km round trip. No issues were encountered on the drive there and back.

After the show I had a few guests come back to see the vehicles and the shop. It was a great catch-up with Barry and Stefan. Yes that’s Mr LWD Parts himself. Unfortunately my visit got cut short as I had to leave for a fire. Regardless it was great to see them both.
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