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  #1  
Old 20-10-15, 16:12
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 613
Default Restoration of Ford M8 armoured car US Ordnance number 7373

Hi all,

Iíve been inspired by some of the recent armour restoration threads by Rick, Peter, Dale and others so thought I would post some details of my latest restoration project - an M8 armoured car, U.S. Ordnance serial number 7373. Iím hoping that I can get assistance on this forum from time to time with this project as Iím sure I will need help. I imagine the first few months will mainly be spent on taking stock of what I have and working out what I have got myself into!

Iíve been told I must be brave or just a little mad, in attempting this project. I figure though that if I donít do it, someone else will and as the saying goes, theyíre not making these anymore!

With lots of help from Willy Rouhalde in France and Jaap Rietveld in Belgium, this M8 arrived in New Zealand in September 2015.

As you can see, the M8ís hull is cut in two. Little is known about its history apart from the fact that it is ex- Italian Army and that it was cut as part of their demilitarising process. I understand the turret is not original to this M8.

The US Ordnance serial number on the hull below the glacis is 7373. From what Iíve been told, its likely manufacture date would have been early to mid 1944, and its U.S. Registration number 6040276-S.

The project came with the two hull pieces, turret and ring gear, turret rotation gear, 37mm gun tube and mantlet, gun mount, elevation and recoil system parts, 37mm ammo racks, 3 x engines in various states of repair, axles, wheels and tires, transmissions, transfer cases, engine covers, shocks, hatches, brakes, springs, guards, storage boxes, prop shafts, torque rods, instrument panels, steering boxes and steering wheel, starter motor, generator, radiator, fuel tank, fans, clutch assembly, hydrovac, muffler, carburettors, co-driver seat, distributor, water pump,handbrake and gearbox levers, BC-603 radios and FT-237, BC606 interphone boxes, etc, etc.

The size of the project when I bought it was such that it wouldnít fit into a 20 foot container and I had to get a 40 foot container to bring it all home.

From the start I knew there wasnít a heck of a lot of the bigger parts that I still needed. Most of the big stuff was there and while I was preparing the vehicle for shipping I managed to find a few things that I knew I did need including the turret seating frame, electric choke, master switch, primer pump, foot pedal assembly, grenade boxes, brake line covers, compass mount, BC-604 radio, and 37mm spare parts case.

It will be a while before I start the restoration with any real speed as I am still finishing off a White M3A1 AOP Scout Car. However, my initial plan is to try and get the hull welded reasonably quickly, then get the vehicle on itís wheels so that it can at least be moved around if needed to be. After that, we will look to fabricate the floor.

I knew the welding of the hull was something that was going to be beyond my very limited welding skills. Fortunately, I have been storing the vehicle in a friendís engineering workshop and he has a number of specialist welders who are going to do that part of the restoration.

Iíve heard various thoughts on the recommended approach to welding the hull. Peter Ė this is why I had some interest in how you did your hull.

Some have said to weld with stainless steel rods. Others have said MIG is the way to go. My initial conversations with the welders who will do the hull is that they are thinking MIG with high tensile wire. Iíll keep you posted once the we progress with this.

At this stage I am looking for the following parts if anyone has anything available or any contacts:

∑ Driver and co-driver seats

∑ Aircleaner

∑ Regulator

∑ Throttle fluid reservoir and mounting bracket

∑ Ignition coil

∑ Fire extinguisher bracket and water can bracket

∑ Protectoscopes

∑ Exhaust elbow Ė engine to muffler

∑ Ignition coil

∑ Hydrovac repair kit

∑ Fuel sender

∑ Ammeter


Iíll post some more pictures of the progress as I go.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #2  
Old 20-10-15, 16:15
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
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Default

I am doing this on an IPad so will have to do a picture at a time.

Another picture of the hull.

Another picture.

Some parts.

The turret, probably off a range.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg   image.jpg   image.jpg   image.jpg   image.jpg  

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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #3  
Old 20-10-15, 17:35
Peter Duggan Peter Duggan is offline
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Default Welcome

Darryl,

That is one impressive project that you are undertaking. You will find that your trip down this restoration path will be extremely rewarding. By that I mean the great people that you will meet along the way. There will be minor setbacks/challenges along the way, but the positive relationships will be memorable.

I look forward to your updates., Peter
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  #4  
Old 21-10-15, 01:50
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Peter

Thanks for the words of motivation. I'll need them! I'm committed to finishing off my scout car so this project will take a while. It is good though to have something else that I can progress in the background while I'm awaiting the sandblast and paint and engine rebuild on the scout car.

Here are a few more pictures of the parts that came with the M8.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0001 - Copy.JPG   IMG_0005 - Copy.jpg   IMG_0008 - Copy.jpg   IMG_0009 - Copy.JPG   IMG_0011 - Copy.jpg  

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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #5  
Old 21-10-15, 03:15
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Mike Kelly Mike Kelly is offline
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You need to contact Rick Shearman ? in Sth Aust , he may help you with contacts for parts . Ricks M8 is running .

He is a member of this club http://www.wvcg.org/
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  #6  
Old 21-10-15, 08:08
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Mike

Thanks for that. I will get in touch with Rick.
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #7  
Old 21-10-15, 16:29
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Default AC project

That is not as daunting as you might think. USGI parts all have stock numbers and parts catalogues. It is a reasonably popular vehicle so other collectors will have trod your same path in the past. There are dealers who have NOS and Take Off parts; you just need to figure out the cheaper and generic corresponding truck, generator or trailer part numbers, without spending bigger dollars on a named AFV part.

In the meantime, I would suggest a rigourous catalogueing of everything is in order. Clean and store what you have. Brush off the loose rust and dirt. Spray with some sort of preservative paint. ID with a hang tag tied with a string. With the right information, you personally won't have to monopolize your active memory with answers to, 'what in blue blazes is this damn thing?' The appearance of pretty parts will be a lot more motivating than seeing chipped, rusted and incomplete ones.
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74-????? M151A2 plated and on the road
70-08876 M38A1 ready for the road
53-71233 M100CDN trailer manufactured by MCI ready for the road

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  #8  
Old 21-10-15, 18:49
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Terry,

My thoughts exactly on the cataloguing of everything and that is what Iíve been busy on over the last few weeks. I will only be doing odd jobs on it until my scout car is done, so I figured it was important to know exactly what I had and what I needed, so I could keep an eye on anything that came up for sale.

You are quite right to on the parts for these. Aside from the fact they use basically the same engine, Iíve actually found it easier to source the other parts for the M8 than I did for the White scout car. Perhaps thatís because the M8 was in service for much longer.
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #9  
Old 22-10-15, 04:21
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,
In between waiting on news on the hull and getting my scout car parts sandblasted and painted, I did some work on the instrument panel.

I think with the likely manufacture date of this M8, it should have the early instrument panel which is what I have.

I had two pretty rough instrument panels and their switches and gauges to work with along with some new gauges that came with the package.

I am not set on the paint shade that I have used for the panel colour but it will do until I narrow that down later on. I worked off some NOS parts that I had which I gave to the paint supplier but I am not totally convinced after seeing it on the instrument panel.

A question on the circuit breakers. I know nothing about these. Are they lit when operating at all? What is the original colour? These ones had several coats of paint on them which I have cleaned up so am wondering whether I can touch them up with some original coloured paint to freshen them up.

I still need an ammeter and a headlight switch. Neither was recoverable from the instrument panels I had. Is the headlight switch the same as the jeep one? It looks very similar.

Iíll also need to find some sort of cover for the instrument lights.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_9881 - Copy.jpg   IMG_9889 - Copy.jpg   IMG_0125 - Copy.jpg  
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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #10  
Old 22-10-15, 06:32
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Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Darryl, think Jeep, Dodge, GMC for panel lights and a light switch.
Are the circuit breakers a metal box with just two terminals?
they are usually bi metal (they vibrate open and closed depending on the "over"current draw) I have never seen one that lights up (which just means I haven't seen one like yours) This type are fairly common and are available in different load ratings 10 amp, 20 amp, 30 amp etc.

Or are those them at the top of your panel with reset buttons?

Great project you have there!
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
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So many questions....
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  #11  
Old 22-10-15, 07:20
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big D View Post
....

I still need an ammeter and a headlight switch. Neither was recoverable from the instrument panels I had. Is the headlight switch the same as the jeep one? It looks very similar.

Iíll also need to find some sort of cover for the instrument lights.
With my vast and profound knowledge of MB 1/4 tons (acquired in one morning), I'd say yes that does look like a Jeep light switch. Check the rating before getting carried away.

This is where an illustrated parts manual and a few more from contemporary USGI vehicles would come in handy. Instead of relying on the ignorance of strangers (ie - me!), the references will show which parts are common across the spectrum. One of the wonders of the US logistics system is how it firmly harnessed as much of the US industrial base as it could, and using command economic measures achieved greatness. Most Americans can't agree on issues; so to work together so successfully is a real marvel.
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Terry Warner

74-????? M151A2 plated and on the road
70-08876 M38A1 ready for the road
53-71233 M100CDN trailer manufactured by MCI ready for the road

Wow! All three green beasties run!
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  #12  
Old 22-10-15, 08:56
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Lynn and Terry,

Thanks for the replies.

Terry - I have parts manuals for both the jeep and the M8 so I will get them out soon and do some comparisons. They appear the same but I'll check part numbers and ratings etc.

Lynn - yes, it should be a fun project. Lots to do which I am looking forward to. I've attached a couple of pictures of one of the circuit breakers. Yes - the are pictured at the top of the panel. The three of them are screwed together on a plate which is bolted to the instrument panel.

I don't know whether they light up - they just had that appearance to me but I could be way off with that. They appear to function when I check them with a multimeter but I guess until they are connected I can't be sure. I was really just looking to tidy them up with some fresh paint. Pictures on the net suggest they are a reddish colour with a white painted centre.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0137 - Copy.jpg   IMG_0138 - Copy.jpg  
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #13  
Old 22-10-15, 11:33
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Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Darryl, google Klixon (A jeep has two of them, without the button)
It looks like the white bit in the end of the red button is the amperage.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....

Last edited by Lynn Eades; 23-10-15 at 00:21.
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  #14  
Old 22-10-15, 21:56
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Morning Lynn,

You are onto it. Yes, that is it. Mystery solved. At least I know the colour they should be.

I will tidy these ones up and see if they operate alright. If not, I'll get three brand spanking new ones with the nice white numbering!
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #15  
Old 13-11-15, 19:50
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I am a bit behind here in progress reports. We are looking at next month to get the hull into the workshop and get it set up ready for welding back together. In the meantime, Iíve been working on a few time fillers to keep me busy.

A tidy up of the sighting scope and steering wheel. Not my greatest effort on the steering wheel but it will do.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0015.jpg   IMG_0231.jpg   IMG_0127.JPG   IMG_0233.jpg  
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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #16  
Old 13-11-15, 19:51
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

I am rebuilding the traverse mechanism with some new bearings and some fresh paint. Just awaiting a new hand wheel cover and shifter button coming from Brent Mullins.

I've also stripped down the brake slave cylinders and done a tidy up on some of the brake parts I have. Still lots to do on these.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0271 - Copy.jpg   IMG_0335.jpg   IMG_0331.jpg   IMG_0334.jpg  
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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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Old 13-11-15, 19:54
Big D Big D is offline
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Default M8 restoration

I did a strip down of the turret seating assembly. They are not in too bad a shape considering. Both seat towers will need a new piece of box channel cut for the back and new rollers on the seats. There is enough left of the mount at the bottom for a template to make two new ones up.

Iíve ordered some new springs from Brent Mullins and Iíll make up some retainers for the bottom to hold the springs in. The turret seating frame will need straightening along with a bit of new pipe.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0208 - Copy.jpg   IMG_0252.jpg   IMG_0265.jpg   IMG_0268.jpg  
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #18  
Old 13-11-15, 19:56
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Iíve also been following Rickís lead in using a molasses mixture to remove some of the rust from the more heavily corroded items that I have for the M8.

Iíve attached some before and after photos. Iíve experimented with a 10-1 mix and an 8-1 mix and both gave similar results for me. I gave the few bits I've done a light wirewheel after drying and it brings the steel up very shiny.

What I like about it is that it is non-toxic and you can safely leave it to do its thing in the garage. It also gets into places that a sandblaster canít and it really leaves nuts, bolts and threads nice and clean. It will not remove paint or grease, but if the paint is flaking, Iíve found it will lift that flaky paint off. I have some bigger and more corroded items in the molasses now so I'll report back on how they go.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0109.JPG   IMG_0112.JPG   IMG_0323.jpg   IMG_0330.jpg  
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #19  
Old 03-12-15, 10:30
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

I am hopeful the M8 hull will be progressed in the next couple of weeks. In the meantime I have been working on tidying up small jobs like the grenade boxes, 37mm spare parts box, steering box and assorted gun parts.

I also rebuilt the 37mm elevation mechanism. It appears that the turret was a range target at some point. The elevation mechanism has a small arms hole through one side of the casting, through the centre shaft and out through the other side of the casting. There is also some other bullet damage to it. Fortunately the projectile missed the gears themselves. I cleaned up the entry and exit holes on the shaft and replaced the bearings at each end of the main shaft. Although the main gear is now a little out of round, I got it all to work again. It is not 100% smooth and although I wouldn't trust it in combat, it is working.

I am looking for the knob that bolts to the large adjustment wheel on the side if anyone has a spare.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0356.jpg   IMG_0463.jpg   IMG_0349.JPG   IMG_0390.JPG   IMG_0504.jpg  

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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #20  
Old 03-12-15, 10:32
Big D Big D is offline
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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IMG_0502.jpg   IMG_0475.jpg   IMG_0484.jpg   IMG_0506.jpg   IMG_0509.jpg  

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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #21  
Old 20-12-15, 02:59
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

The job on the hull has had to be put off until after the Xmas break now so in the meantime I am still focussing on a lot of the small jobs with this.

As you can see from the photos, Iíve done some more painting on some of the interior parts as well as the gun parts that I had cleaned up in molasses.

I stripped all the turret hold down roller assemblies. As you can see I am missing one, and one in particular is pretty stuffed. I am on the lookout for a replacement for that one plus another one I need to make up the eight required. Iíll need to fabricate the vertical roller and pin for all of them as well as up the horizontal roller for another three of them.

I pulled the two turret support rollers out of the hull. Once out, one came apart fairly easily and both it and the housing are soaking in molasses. The other one looks like it is quite corroded and refuses to come apart so far. It is also soaking now for the Xmas break. I have another bearing housing which is very tidy and a contact has a bearing put aside for me. I am on the lookout for the gudgeon for that bearing though.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0599.JPG   IMG_0603.jpg   IMG_0602.jpg   IMG_0587.JPG   IMG_0591.JPG  

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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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Old 20-12-15, 03:00
Big D Big D is offline
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Default M8 restoration

I had a look at the FT-237 radio mount and the radio tray. As you can see there is a fair bit of work in restoring the FT-237 so I have put that to one side at present while I concentrate on some of the other stuff.

Merry Xmas!
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IMG_0604.JPG   IMG_0612.JPG   IMG_0614.JPG  
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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #23  
Old 28-01-16, 01:08
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi all,

We have the two hull pieces positioned in place in the engineering workshop now. The pieces have been set up and tacked together to assess what is required to join them.

So far, we have worked off the top and bottom dimensions I have of the sponsons and the turret ring gear and set it up accordingly. Now that it is set up accurately,you can see that there is quite a gap on the driver side, while on the co-driver side, the guys had to cut away a fair bit of the old metal to get the pieces in the right place.

We actually believe the hull pieces could be from different M8ís and it wouldn't surprise me if there is at least one other M8 driving around with two mismatched halves! The pieces just donít meet as you would expect from one piece that has been cut in half, and the fact that we had to cut away some metal to get them into place, along with a few differences in colour, suggests this could be the case. Doug, your comment about the Italian radio-mount is another clue.

We donít see that as a problem though and we believe it will go together in a relatively straightforward way. I am looking for some feedback on how best to do the job though please.

The guys in the engineering workshop believe the best approach would be to replace the three outer plates (top plate, mid plate, lower plate) on the sponsons on each side with new pieces of mild steel, cut to size. Cutting off the existing plate is no problem and once fitted they can replicate all the previous welds.

This will give them full access to be able to weld the channel at the bottom of the hull and all the inner parts of the hull that would be difficult to get to. The disadvantage of course is in losing that original plate, but I see the practicality in this solution.

Option two is to remove what is left of the three plates on the sponsons on each side of the rear hull section only. New pieces for these would be cut to a size to match what was left of the plates on the front half of the hull, once they were tidied up, so that a neat join between the two could be made. This would give reasonable access to the channel and inner parts of the hull, and it would leave more of the original sponson in place. There would be a bit of grinding to tidy up the joins in the sponson.

What do all you experts suggest? Iím keen to hear any suggestions.
Attached Thumbnails
P1060343.jpg   P1060342.jpg   P1060353.jpg   P1060340.jpg   P1060345.jpg  

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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #24  
Old 28-01-16, 01:11
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

More photos.
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P1060357.jpg   P1060355.jpg   P1060352.jpg   P1060346.jpg   P1060341.jpg  

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1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
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  #25  
Old 28-01-16, 02:02
motto motto is offline
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Hi Darryl
My inclination would be to go along with the guys who will be doing the job.
Maybe start with the side with the large gap and see how it turns out before tackling the other side so long as there is no problem with distortion.
So long as they can replicate the plates and welds it would have to be a better result than patching up.

Dave
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  #26  
Old 28-01-16, 04:09
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Darryl.

Just tossing this out there.

Can you remove the sponson from one side as two pieces (fore and aft), make the necessary interior repairs, then repair the sponson while detached from the vehicle and reattach it when done? You could perhaps tack the two sponson pieces together to maintain their relationship to each other before removal.

Like I say, I am no expert, but it would have the potential of preserving all original plating?

Am enjoying the thread! Keep it up!

Cheers,


David
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  #27  
Old 28-01-16, 05:06
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Default Steel

If you were repairing an old house and you had to move an interior wall, the most workmanlike approach would be to remove all of the last guy's work and start from a known-good surface. The men who will have to make the welds know their own limits, and how much effort is required to achieve the result. Take heed of their counsel

There is a risk that came to mind when you mentioned having two halves. Years ago there was an American firearms magazine called, Firepower. Their specialization was legal fully automatic weapons. In one issue the editor and his writers made a BAR receiver from three demilitarized sections. After welding it was set aside for tempering. With bang, one of the welds exploded. After very close physical examination and some metallurgical tests, they discovered they had WW1, WW2 and Korean War pieces. Three contracts, three factories, and three steels. As I recall, they broke the remaining welds, retempered the three pieces, redid the welds and retempered the receiver. Of course at the right percentage of assembled, it was reported to the authorities for registration.

The question therefore is, have you tested to see if the steel in both halves is the same? If yes, have at it! If no, you may need to use different rods or wires and different settings.
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  #28  
Old 28-01-16, 10:28
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Default Repair of Armor

Hi Big D, I would normally look to take repairing back to original weld lines, if it looks more practical to replace the whole panel in one plate, other wise if cut lines are suitable to weld up, just weld them up. Use the mild steel core mig wire, 0.9mm dia, good for 1/2" thick plate and CO2 shielding gas, and you won't go wrong on that US armor. Cheers Andrew.
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  #29  
Old 28-01-16, 10:37
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
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Default M8 restoration

Hi Dave, David and Terry,

Thanks for the replies.

Dave - yes, my initial impression on seeing it was to go with their recommendation. New plates in there seem logical to me and 'cleaner' than patch jobs as you say. Overall, I think this will be the most efficient and doing one at a time to, does have merit - a good point thanks.

David - that's a good question. I'm betting it could be done, albeit with a bit of extra time involved I'd say. Like you say, it does mean the original plating can be retained. Thanks for the comment on the thread. Good to hear you are finding it interesting. It is proving to be fun so far!

Terry - a good point. To be honest, testing the steel is not something I had even considered. I will have to ask the guys in the workshop about that. I don't know how much of a problem it could be. I know there are a number of 'stitched up' M8's out there, but that doesn't mean there wouldn't be problems with this one.

Chaps - as an aside, it has also been mentioned to me (thanks Doug) that another option would be to cut slightly smaller plates to match the sponson plates, and weld them on the inside of the sponsons. The exterior plates would then be preserved as much as possible and it would just require filling in the gaps from the outside using filler plates.

The disadvantage is that getting access to the innards of the hull would still be very difficult. Another viable option though.

Thanks for the ideas. I still like the idea of keeping it as original as possible, but also accept that one has to be a little practical about it, especially when 'the meter is running'! I need to get my head around the options now and work out what we are going to do!
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  #30  
Old 29-01-16, 02:44
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colin jones colin jones is offline
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Hey Darryl, if I had the option I'd weld it back as it is as the cuts don't look that bad and it would be easy to add a few filler pieces where it's a bit wide.
That is just my opinion only of course Great project by the way.
Colin.
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