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Old 30-04-20, 19:08
Phil Waterman's Avatar
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Evolution

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker View Post
Agreed that the page in MB-C doesn't seem to show the markers going through the junction block but that doesn't make much sense to only make it easy to disconnect part of the wiring.

A reliable source shows a photo of an unmolested wiring harness removed from a known original vehicle and clearly shows wires in the main harness of the same (+/- a tiny bit) length to connect headlights and markers, all through the junction blocks.

Thanks Grant, I was in the process of digging out the same photo, that is the wiring from my 1945 HUP, I'll now try to find the photo of the 1942 C60S wiring harness.

But I suspect the difference is just evolution of CMPs they did make ongoing production changes in responses to reports back up through the maintenance channels. The logic I see to all the nose lights all coming to the same terminal blocks is it really annoying when you are pulling the nose off a CMP is to find you just ripped out a wire. It takes me 20 minutes to take the nose off Pattern 13 Cab which makes it a lot easier work on the engine. If you had to chase around and find all the connections it would take longer.

Cheers Phil
Phil Waterman
`41 C60L Pattern 12
`42 C60S Radio Pattern 13
`45 HUP
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Old 18-10-20, 06:12
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Ford CMP- Wiring harness fabrications

Good Day,

I’ve decided to re-do my 25 year old wiring harnesses on my F15-A.

A number of reasons:
Basically back in the mid-nineties I copied non-original harnesses that were on my first truck. At that time I did not even have a Repair Manual for a wiring diagram so I copied the colours and wire gauges as best as I could estimate from the existing harnesses. A bad call in hindsight.

Interestingly, those harnesses I copied used plastic covered wires but they were in original looking woven cotton shrouds. I am surprised they weren’t cotton braid covered wires, but perhaps someone went to a lot of trouble to run wires through the original shrouds even if wrong colours were used.

Another consideration was adding turn signal wires. I know it isn’t original but I believe it is essential in modern traffic to have them. The wires are less obvious inside the new original style harnesses. I made them slightly longer to differentiate them from the original wiring and give a bit more clearance at the solenoid.

I also wanted to add the Autopulse wire to the harnesses. Although not used on Australian vehicles it could come in handy to add an electric fuel pump, if required, at a later date. The wire was fitted originally even if not used but I left it off my first version.

I had hoped to use cotton braid covered wire but I opted for modern automotive wire instead. In reality, very little of the wire is visible so I couldn’t justify the high cost of a commercially made harness. I would not be able to reproduce the woven cotton shrouds anyway so it made even more sense to go with modern wire. I used vintage style bitumen impregnated conduit for the shrouds instead which, although not original, looks in keeping with the era of the truck. I spent about $175 for all the materials.

I obtained a rough, but complete, main harness a while back and a NOS horn (lower chassis) harness for patterns. Over time, I have measured all the lengths of wire and tabulated what I needed in colours and wire gauge.
I used Tycab Australian made automotive wire throughout. I tried to use trace wires wherever possible to identify the wires similar to the original colour coding. In some cases the wire/trace colour combinations were just not available however. In those cases I added a length of heat shrink tubing of the appropriate trace colour to identify it.

I made one exception to the original colour codes. I made the horn wire from the solenoid orange/green band to avoid confusion with the left fuel sender. Both are normally yellow/green x 2. Only a few inches of the horn wire at the solenoid is visible so I can live with that.

So the instrument panel is done, the horn harness is done, so just the main harness to finish off. All wires for it have been cut and run so a just bit of soldering to finish it off.

Hope this is of some interest.
Attached Thumbnails
first plastic covered wires.JPG   NOS harness.JPG   horn harness.JPG   main harness.JPG  
F-15A 1943 Battery Staff

Jacques Reed

Last edited by Jacques Reed; 18-10-20 at 07:13. Reason: grammar
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Old 18-10-20, 07:12
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Very nice work.
Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
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Old 30-03-21, 07:08
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Found in junk shop- 6V Ford Script Headlight Globes

Good Day,

Thought this may be of interest. Found these yesterday in a junk shop in Melbourne. NOS 6V Ford script headlight globes.

Interestingly they say "Made in Holland" on the base.

I guess it is safe to assume that they were made post war! Part No. indicates a 1941 design. Must have made them for only a short time afterwards as sealed beams were in common usage by then.

You just never know what will turn up 70 years later.

Just noticed in Parts list * C01Q 13009 Bulb 32-21 C.P. 6-8 Volts is lower candle power on High than these at 50 C.P. on High. Better illumination with these ones but draws more current.

Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0260a.JPG   IMG_0263a.JPG  
F-15A 1943 Battery Staff

Jacques Reed

Last edited by Jacques Reed; 30-03-21 at 09:03. Reason: Added Parts List info
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Old 08-04-21, 16:47
m606paz m606paz is offline
Mariano Paz
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Buenos Aires,Argentina
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Can help me with this Ford wire no listed in part list?
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Mariano Paz
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA
1966 M606 Jeep
1957 M100 Trailer
1944 Ariel WNG
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Old 08-04-21, 21:29
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Part number would almost suggest that this is for a Rear - engine armored car,
For the Indian Pattern one's, armored cable, Cheers Andrew.
Valentine MkV
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Lynx MKI and MKII
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