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  #1  
Old 07-02-21, 14:51
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Default Rotisserie

Gents:

My projects, funds, and talent are aligning this summer.

I've concluded it is neccesary to dismantle my M151A2 to have someone much more skilled with a welder than me, fix its rusted, dented and potentially unsafe panels. That someone has previously restored an M151A2, and is familiar with its construction techniques.

An amateur trades time for materials, while a professional trades materials for time. To keep my skilled craftsman productive, we agree that the body should go onto a rotisserie.

Does anyone in Eastern Ontario/West Quebec have an unused and safe body rotisserie? And yes, I've put out the call privately to a few people on MLU asking the same question. Others seem to have their rotisseries in use.

The alternative is buy a newly built one, use it for the time necessary and sell it on into car restoration hobby circles.

Terry
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #2  
Old 07-02-21, 17:37
Grant McCullough Grant McCullough is offline
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Hi Terry, once the diffs, and engine are out, the tub shouldn’t be too heavy.
I saw an ad in a British car magazine called Practicle Classics, made out of tubing that had been radiused. This tip over jig, made from 2x6’s and plywood has the same profile as the advertised steel tube job. Getting tubing bent shouldn’t pose too much trouble. Or maybe the wood job could work.

From the UK. The autovip car roller

https://autovip.uk/basic-car-roller/

And some wooden design of similar principle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuGf68o3tKY


Also found an ad for a custom rotisserie builder in Brantford his name is Stan
Tel 519-756-3817 prices starting at $1500

Last edited by Grant McCullough; 08-02-21 at 02:13.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-21, 18:55
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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So, when I graduate to building a carrier, can I simply reuse these same 2x6s and 3/4" plywood? That is a very slick idea, but it depends on knowing the CG and being able to "hang" the body just right.

Good to keep in mind!
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #4  
Old 07-02-21, 19:48
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chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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Terry
I’m personally not a fan of rotisseries but to each their own.
Trying to find exactly what you need for a 151 may be a challenge, at some point I’m sure it will need to be customized to fit.
They take up a lot of room as well.
On a unibody design like a Mutt, one has to consider when cutting and removing panels, thought must come into play ahead of time as the strength of the body as a whole supports its structure when mounted in the device.
Best use of a rotisserie that I have seen is mostly for sandblasting, painting or whenever it is desirable to turn over whatever it is you’re working with- a frame, a complete body etc
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1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

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  #5  
Old 07-02-21, 23:50
James P James P is offline
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I will chime in on use of a rotisserie. Great for paint time but not so much during the cut and weld stage of a unibody. So that said make sure you are tack welding lots of 1/2" (or greater) angle all over the car prior to cutting to preserve its dimensional integrity and preventing it from sagging or hogging.
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  #6  
Old 08-02-21, 02:42
Grant McCullough Grant McCullough is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
So, when I graduate to building a carrier, can I simply reuse these same 2x6s and 3/4" plywood? That is a very slick idea, but it depends on knowing the CG and being able to "hang" the body just right.

Good to keep in mind!
Terry, for a carrier project I would invest in 12” x12” x8’ dunnage, cut and stack to suit, if need for track repair or heaven forbid floor repair. I had to stack them two high to facilitate spinning some frozen track on a Mk2 I used to own. I would suggest keeping a carrier upright and in position, for restoration.

However if your had to put a spin onto the term carrier roller, (I personally wouldn’t, unless it had to be done and no crane was available) then one might want to check this concept out. All joking aside it should work.

https://blog.world-mysteries.com/mys...-stone-blocks/
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  #7  
Old 08-02-21, 02:54
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Default FB offer

FB is not just good for finding old school friends and sharing the latest conspiracy theories. I asked this same Q on a group for M151 owners, and another member offered to send more pictures of the proper US military rotisserie. He got my attention with the ones attached.
Attached Thumbnails
Michael Longs M151 rotisserie from fb 1.jpg   Michael Longs M151 rotisserie from fb 2.jpg  
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #8  
Old 08-02-21, 03:04
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Consider making your own.....and learn welding at the same time.

Hi Terry

Congrats on becoming a fully retired OD green addict.

I made my own rotisserie based on plans I purchased and then modified from a multitude of web sites.....to respect my abilities at fabricating and the tools I had at hand.

I will gladly show you what I have done and let you know some of the things I would do different. Currently holding up the 2/3 rear of a discarded C15a frame and a 2B1 cargo box being rebuilt..... probably over a metric ton.

The M151 would have either front bumper brackets or front suspension points sturdy enough to lift that body. Getting it started or located on the rotisserie is slow but once balanced she will spin by hand.
In fact on the web you will see numerous users of two engine stands and some welding and it seems to do the job.

You can build one cheaper than buying a good heavy one. Unfortunately steel prices are high and that reflects in the material whether you buy it fully done or partly assembled or make your own. I could not find one I could afford that was sturdy enough to tackle CMP heavy components.

Have you chatted with Stuart as I believe he has fabricated one. The overall weight and size of the M151 is ideal for such a projects. I am using mine and although bulky, I love it and would do it again.

I built mine entirely out of 2 in. and 2 1/2 in. and a few short section of 3 in. receiver tube now hard to find..... square trailer tubing with 1/4 in. wall thickness.....heavy, expensive but will not bend under load easily and is safe to use with CMP loads. We are currently busy cutting out panels and rewelding new steel and as I hate welding while laying on my back with sparks dropping in my shirt it is a worth while investment.....and all the work is done standing up at waist level.

As for storage well we can park it next to your skidoo trailer in the back field until my demise.

Take your time and surf the web for the multitude of designs some of which are a death trap. And when you are finished with it you can rent it, sell it or do another Mutt. Have look at what I have posted on MLU. Call me if you want to chat or visit and get an eye full. Some sites are very educational and will show you how to brace a bare body before removing key structural components.....a rusted convertible with the doors and top removed will fold in half or sag like an old mare if not properly braced. Most of my ready made parts came from Princess Auto when on sale or curb side pickup on garbage day. Neighbor donated four almost new Winter tires on rims when he cleaned up to move....short haul from across the street ...and they were 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern that fitted the PA stub axles perfectly. Other parts came from friendly trades and scrounging. ....some sand blasting for a 100:1 gear box screw drive which means we can spin the frame/box by means of a 1/2 in. ratchet.

Strangely enough I had installed a rubber spider U joint between the gear box and the rotating load tied to a stub axle...... and used a 1/2 air impact wrench.....first time I used it the wonderful u joint just cracked up and spit out the Allen key........ but PA is known for ease of returning defective( or abused) parts and simply trade up for a HD U joint and no longer use the 500 pound of torque from the air impact.

Hopefully we have a nice Summer a head of us if you chose to build we can help you out. You get to learn welding and the personal satisfaction of doing it.

Cheers
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Canada
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  #9  
Old 08-02-21, 03:09
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default So you found the little ones.....

...have you seen the rotisserie they were using in England to spin around a Sherman......they aligned and joined two halves discarded from a firing range.

Cheers
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  #10  
Old 08-02-21, 04:35
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
...have you seen the rotisserie they were using in England to spin around a Sherman......they aligned and joined two halves discarded from a firing range.

Cheers
The Isle of Wight tank workshop is impressive! But my M151A2 probably doesn't weigh as much as the four hatch covers put together.

Getting some interest on a FB conversation with suggestions, photos and in a day or so, pictures of the US military rotisserie.
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #11  
Old 08-02-21, 11:15
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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The Sherman rotisserie that was used by the IoW museum was actually borrowed from the guy that made it for another Sherman project in the UK. He posts on MLU so can make it public himself but I saw it in use and it transformed doing major work like replacing sponson plates (the horizontal plate directly above the track). A bare Sherman hull only weighs about ten tons but you certainly don't want it rolling over by itself when you are welding it so securing it after each movement is vital.

David
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  #12  
Old 08-02-21, 19:21
James P James P is offline
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What you need is a proper jig that will support the cars weight as panels are removed and replaced (or brace the car with much angle iron to prevent sagging/hogging ) if you can mount said jig (that may have to be purpose built as a one off) on a rotisserie all the better. I just cannot see a rotisserie by itself being much use beyond making painting easier.
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  #13  
Old 08-02-21, 19:32
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James P View Post
What you need is a proper jig that will support the cars weight as panels are removed and replaced (or brace the car with much angle iron to prevent sagging/hogging ) if you can mount said jig (that may have to be purpose built as a one off) on a rotisserie all the better. I just cannot see a rotisserie by itself being much use beyond making painting easier.
I hear you! The genius of the M151 family is its unibody, but that is also its weakness. The image I posted about requires a solid rear attachment point. Mine is a little suspect. So, an early work step will be to rebuild enough of the rear, especially where the pintle mounts, so we avoid exactly what you warn of.

Someone else's project but noted as a caution of the simplicity of the construction.
Attached Thumbnails
back corners and bumperettes 1.jpg   back corners and bumperettes 5.jpg  
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #14  
Old 09-02-21, 00:09
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Simpler is always easier and cheaper......

...... BUT not so cheap as to create a safety hazard......

I can stand under the wheel well of the 2B1 for weldidng and griding and feel absolutely safe........ but you need ear plugs as the really emplifies the sound.....than flip it 100 degrees to get access to the other side of the fender at waist level........

I wish I had the rotisserie when I re did the rusted frame of my car float when we used to flip it over with the bucket of the tractor many times........

For a Mutt a 2 inch square tubing with 3mm ( 1/8 +-) wall thickness would be sufficient. mine could handle a full Jeep frame body and all......

Have yet to use it for sand blasting and/or painting as it would require tarps to cover the mechanism of both swiveling ends.

If someone supplies the steer I will BBQ it free including the charcoal and the 5 gal bucket of BBQ sauce and a new cotton floor mop for basting
.......for a free meal.....Hell I will also do the beer!!!!!!
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  #15  
Old 09-02-21, 00:16
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Terry.........

..... consider using the axle attachment points under the MUTT.... strudy and free up room for working onthe pintle area.

On the 2B1 cargo box it had NO easy attchment point front or rear.....

so I cut the front 1/3 of a rusted CMP frame and fabricated attchments points welded to the rear section....... the attchment were thenbolted to the rotisserie.

I lifted the whole 2B1 box with the tractor and dropped / installed the cargo box to the CMP frame using homemade 1/2 in. U bolts like the truck had when it left the factory....very ridgid.... I have removed some of the floor section and replaced with new steel....no sagging whatsoever and solid enough to hammer on the beast.

Cheers
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Canada
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  #16  
Old 09-02-21, 00:29
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
If someone supplies the steer I will BBQ it free including the charcoal and the 5 gal bucket of BBQ sauce and a new cotton floor mop for basting
.......for a free meal.....Hell I will also do the beer!!!!!!

But, are you volunteering to stand there all day cranking on the gearbox? Or are you already planning to modify it to Mk1a spec, with motor drive?
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  #17  
Old 09-02-21, 01:17
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Bowker View Post
But, are you volunteering to stand there all day cranking on the gearbox? Or are you already planning to modify it to Mk1a spec, with motor drive?
Gotta love the enthusiasm of the Hammond Barn builders. Its the depths of February with lows in the minus 20s and highs barely into minus single digits, and they're already planning the next social gathering.

I know that seems tropical to some readers, but its uncomfortable enough. And, for those who wonder how we endure the cold, I have a simple analogy. Any wild animal that can survive the cold Canadian winter (bears, wolves, bison, musk ox, bull moose, wolverines, Sasquatch, etc) are worth avoiding in the woods. Hey? Was that Bob in his new fur coat, or are my eyes deceiving me?
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Terry Warner

- 74-????? M151A2
- 70-08876 M38A1
- 53-71233 M100CDN trailer

Beware! The Green Disease walks among us!
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  #18  
Old 10-02-21, 03:29
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default ...for Grant......

..... we can use the flat belt from the Allis Chalmers tractor..... that will spin the steer....... or the old snow blower would come in handy to mix up ground beef!!!!

Imagination is free...... hard work hard to find......
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