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#1
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Rust removal
This is a much discussed topic already. For anyone interested in trying various methods I recommend "The Olympics of Rust Removal" by Tubal Cane on YouTube.
My preferred method is the one used by most of us i.e. a solution of 1 part Molasses to 6 parts water. Immerse the item and leave for two weeks. The reason why I raise this old chestnut once more is that I an amazed at the number of people who just do not believe it works, so, to liven up the boredom of the COVID-19 lock down, I retrieved two identical rusty brackets that have been lying about my garage for 35 years and gave the treatment to one of them. The attached picture shows the transformation after four weeks Alastair F60S LAAT Lynx I MkIII* |
#2
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I've tried Molasses before and it does work well. However, being an impatient millennial, I bought a small tub of Oxalic acid from Bunnings and mixed a batch up in a bucket. I threw in a pile of rusty bits of a motorcycle I'm restoring and it stripped the rust overnight. Much quicker and cleaner than molasses.
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1967 Land Rover Plant Repair Vehicle 1941 Matchless G3L 194? Wiles Junior Trailer 1941 Morris Commercial CS8 |
#3
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Electrolysis for me. No stink, no mess and overnight results.
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1943 Willys MB Willys Trailer 1941 Fordson WOT 2H 1941 Fordson WOT 2H (Unrestored) 194? Fordson WOT 2D (Unrestored) 1939 Ford 1 ton utility (Undergoing restoration) 1940 Ford 1 ton utility (Unrestored) 1941 Ford 1 ton utility (Unrestored) BSA folding bicycle BSA folding bicycle 1941 Ford/Marmon Herrington 3A gun tractor 1941 Ford/Marmon Herrington 3 gun tractor (Unrestored) 1941 Diamond T 969 (Unrestored) Wiles Junior Cooker x 2 |
#4
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Speed isn't everything !
BECAUSE molasses is slow it gets into places that faster methods miss. For example it will penetrate where parts have rusted together or small holes that have filled with rust. Faster chemical methods including electrolysis concentrate on the most exposed bits and are much less good at deep holes etc. I have seen a 2pdr gun that had turned into a crusty lump of rust. The breach block was present and with a couple of months in molasses all the parts could be dismantled. It was very pitted but the moving parts moved. I was very impressed as I had seen it as scrap. David |
#5
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.......and a further benefit to the Molasses method is less damage to the base metals....
and no damage to brass
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Charles Fitton Maryhill On., Canada too many carriers too many rovers not enough time. (and now a BSA...) (and now a Triumph TRW...) Last edited by charlie fitton; 06-05-20 at 13:04. |
#6
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Citric
Have tried them all over many years , my favourite cleaner is Citric acid, I get it in 25kg bags , much cheaper that way. Downside is the solution must be kept at a warm to hot temperature for the process to be fast and effective. If the part is very dirty or oily a bath of caustic Soda first. Have dipped engine blocks in Citric , around here in dairying country the 200 litre plastic drums are numerous and cheap, cut them in half or lengthwise .
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#7
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Another option for smaller parts (it will work on much larger items, too, but the cost will be prohibitive) is a commercial product called Evapo-Rust.
Very effective, non-toxic, put your hands in it, pour it down the drain etc, but pricier than the other methods.
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