Modern part numbers for CMPs

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Ian found out the hard way (= buying the wrong seal), that the Ford F15A seal front hub inner 5", Ford part number C01Q-1190B matches with SKF/ CR 49998 with ID 5" and OD 6.25"

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...638#post264638

Where did Ian's info come from? Was it the .zip file I posted in Post #10 on page 1, or is there another table? I no longer have Excel on my computer so can't read that table, but Keith's post #19 still has that info brought across on his webpage and it clearly shows C01Q-1190B to be a 5" seal and part number 49998. Where has the conflicting info come from?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

Where did Ian's info come from? Was it the .zip file I posted in Post #10 on page 1, or is there another table? I no longer have Excel on my computer so can't read that table, but Keith's post #19 still has that info brought across on his webpage and it clearly shows C01Q-1190B to be a 5" seal and part number 49998. Where has the conflicting info come from?

Hi Tony,

Going back through the releated threads the correct info was there indeed, but I did not help with muddling it up. The p/n I shared is correct for the seal with the dimensions shown, but that seal does not cross reference to C01Q-1190B. It now turns out I was wrongly informed and have been sold the wrong seal as as well...

Anyway, I have offered compensation and invited Ian to add his lessons-learned to this thread.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Ford master brake cylinder, 1 1/4" bore: current part number of a Rebuild Kit is 91T-2004-A, 91T-2004.
91T-2004.jpg


These kits seem to be quite easy to source in the USA, Canada and the UK, but I could not find a rebuild kit closer to home - until I remembered this:

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

If you have a Ford Master Cylinder needing a rebuild - the seals and pistons etc. are the same as on other American trucks like the Dodge WC-series for example.

As Dodges are very common here in The Netherlands it was much easier to buy a rebuild kit off the shelf, e.g. at Staman Trading:
https://staman.nl/product/kit-repair...ylinder-dodge/
KIT-dodge.jpg

[Jordan Baker]

Applicable to the Otter, C15TA and I believe the Fox AC and C60X transmission.

4.319 2075286 Seal, Mainshaft Rear Bearing Cap Oil

Modern SKF / CR 17645

[rob love]

I had to do a rear U-joint on an artillery tractor (Chev) a couple days ago and found the U joint that was commonly referred to on MLU was too short. The U joint referred to equals a UJ331 (the 331 is a common reference and the spicer number is 5-1350x). Caps are 1.188 diameter and the height is 3.622

A little research led to the right U-joint. The caps are 1.188 diameter and the height from top to bottom on the caps is 4.187. They are spicer 1410 series U joints and use part number 5-1410X. Another common trade number is UJ330.

It may be that the number listed on MLU is for the smaller or earlier trucks. But the various cab13 shafts I have sitting here all appear to use the latter UJ330 (spicer 5-1410X) U-joint.

[Jordan Baker]

Rob, these are the parts I had a heavy truck shop tell me where the same as what I brought in from my C15a truck.

[rob love]

The 5-178x is the equivelant of the UJ331, which is the shorter U joint.

The UJ330 is the longer one that is contained by the 4 clips into a flange and shaft.
I have already installed the U joint in the shaft, but I'll try and get some shots this afternoon of the differences.

Checking the parts manuals, there are date cutoffs where the U joints change. It would appear that in later production, they may have gone to the larger U joints on the 15cwt (4x4) trucks.

If one goes by the measurements I have given in my post, they can get the right Ujoint the first time, instead of doing a 2 tripper like I did. Even when I did get the right number, a (modern) Ford owner had hit up my NAPA store and taken all 7 of the larger size and most of the smaller size the day before. I had to settle for the same series U joint but with the grease cup on the end of one of the caps.