#1
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MK1* Mk 2 Air Cleaner, oil bowl.
Hello,
I'm having a new bowl spun for the bottom of the Mk2 air filter i have. If anyone else needs one send me a P.M. and i'll let you know on prices, should have a price this week. Is there a seal between the bolw and the filter or is it just a very good fit to stop the oil coming out? Is there any way to take these fiters apart? i want to take the wire mesh out and sand blast it, but i'm struggling to find a way in! Thanks Last edited by John A. Rippingham; 10-02-15 at 12:06. Reason: correction |
#2
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I would be very wary of introducing sand into the air cleaner derusting procedure John. I would be far more inclined to leave the gauze in place, degrease it and immerse the assembly in a weak phosphoric acid solution or molasses mix.
That's my take on it anyhow. David
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Hell no! I'm not that old! |
#3
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When the gauze blocked up in my tractor the mechanic dropped it in his acid bath for two hours then pressure washed it and sat it in the sun to dry.
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Robert Pearce. |
#4
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When mine arrived from America, I just used my angle grinder and rope wire wheel to strip it. The mesh part I think is spot welded in place. Also there is only a small amount of oil inside the base so no need for a seal. Ron
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#5
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Air filter
The oil bath holds 3 pints of engine oil. The filter element can be washed in kerosene if extremely fouled and allowed to air dry. The mesh should pick up oil as the filter works, but I'd give it a good oil soak (and drain) before re-installing.
the Gasket is coiuc 100458, and described as a "gasket - oil bath air cleaner". It would keep water out in the rain or a severe wading situation. It doesn't have to be air or water tight for any use we are likely to see - I'd consider replacing it with a strip(s) of compress-able plastic mesh , like a soap-free kitchen pad, cut about 1/2 inch wide. f
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Charles Fitton Maryhill On., Canada too many carriers too many rovers not enough time. (and now a BSA...) (and now a Triumph TRW...) |
#6
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I sandblasted my filter with no problems. Took it all apart and soaked it in parts cleaner to degrease it. Gave it a good blasting then cleaned it all. Then painted it gloss black inside and out. Everything worked fine with it.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#7
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I'd sandblast it if i could get it apart! I guess you drilled out the previously mentioned spot welds?
Ron, mines in a bit worse state than yours, but should clean up well. I might give the molasses a go, if thats not successfull i'll have to drill the spot welds out. Thanks for all your help |
#8
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My mistake. Yes 3 pints of oil. Should have read the manual rather than rely on memory. Ron
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#9
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hi john
is ron spinning the bowl for you ? if so give him my regards, he's also spinning some periscope rain covers for me. rick
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_______________________ 1941 mk1 mortar Carrier 1941 Mk1* Carrier 1942 Mk1* Carrier 1943 T16 Carrier 1945 Mk3 Dingo 1941 Mk3 Covenanter 1941 Mk4 Churchill AVRE (now sold) 1944 Mk6 Cromwell (now sold) 1952 Mk3 Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1953 Mk3 Centurion (breaking) |
#10
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Yes i think it is, he mentioned spinning some stuff for a crazy guy with a tank!!
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#11
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No I didn't have to drill and spot welds. The bowl simply pulled off after undoing the wing nuts. Inside there is a baffle holding all the filter elements/screens in place. It was held in by 4 little machine screws with square nuts. Took them out and removed the baffle. Then I pulled out the elements/filters. I just sandblasted the body as is. I found I could easily get the grit to go down the sides of the inner and outter body without problems. It's been on my carrier for almost ten years now without any issues.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#12
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Got it apart
Thank you, i took the baffle off today, or whats left of it and the mesh came out. As you can see mines a bit worse for wear, not got my sandblaster set up at the moment so its soaking in mollasses now.
The new bottoms are going to work out at £50 each, if i do a batch of 10, i've got interest in 4 so far. John |
#13
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John, Is it worth looking at converting it to take a paper element?
With the need to make up bowls, a little modification in that area may lend its self to the installation of a cleaner, more efficient filtration system. Just a thought. E-mail to follow soon, on a different subject.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#14
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john I would be interested in a base... The image you show of yours on the bench is all I have left on mine.. The grille is in situ, but no base.
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
#15
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Ok thats interest in 5.
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#16
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Now in production
Hello,
The bowls should be spun in the next couple of weeks, if anyone else wants one let me know. John |
#17
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Did you manage to get a price for us John ?
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
#18
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With only doing 5 its going to cost a little bit more than the price i quoted above, as i still have the same tooling cost just less items to split it between. So probably £60-70 each, would normally have the batch of 10 done and put the spares on the shelf to sell, but there just isn't enough interest to do this.
If i can get another 2 orders i'd have the 10 done. Without the bowl the filters are worth very little, but complete with the bowl i know they have changed hand for 150-200 so worth doing if you have a filter to repair. Rick wenlock is also having some parts spun at the same place, so he can vouch for the quality and price. |
#19
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Quote:
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#20
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POR it John, as when it dries it will flash rust.... Alternate a wire brush wheel on a grinder cleans it up to a shine
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
#21
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I didn't have any problems with it re-oxidizing. In fact the picture was taken a couple of days after it came out. As long as it doesn't get wet, what your left with is pretty stable.
I took the parts from the mollasses, rinsed and cleaned them in fresh water, and them put them in a warm place to dry. |
#22
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that molasses worked a treat, i'll have to come over and have a look at your setup.
rick
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_______________________ 1941 mk1 mortar Carrier 1941 Mk1* Carrier 1942 Mk1* Carrier 1943 T16 Carrier 1945 Mk3 Dingo 1941 Mk3 Covenanter 1941 Mk4 Churchill AVRE (now sold) 1944 Mk6 Cromwell (now sold) 1952 Mk3 Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1953 Mk3 Centurion (breaking) |
#23
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I had a nightmare. Mind I live right on the coast, lots of salt air !
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
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