Wiring rehab

cmperry4 · #1 26-12-04, 04:20

Been researching wiring subjects on MLU and elsewhere and while encouraged about being able to replicate wiring loom for my HUP, I am wondering if it is not too naff to ask if it is possible to rehabilitate old wiring loom. I was carefully pulling the harness out of my HUP and most of it is original and all there, and seems to be mostly in not too bad condition. Is it ever worth saving? If such things are done, what sort of materials and methods are best?

Richard Farrant · #2 26-12-04, 10:24

Quote:

Originally posted by cmperry4
I am wondering if it is not too naff to ask if it is possible to rehabilitate old wiring loom. I was carefully pulling the harness out of my HUP and most of it is original and all there, and seems to be mostly in not too bad condition. Is it ever worth saving?

Mark,

If your loom is original type cotton covered rubber insulation, take a careful look at it because the rubber will deteriorate over time and it can crack and crumble or go into a sticky mess. I have just had a harness made for a vehicle here in England, with modern pvc cable with a replicated cotton outer with correct colour traces. This will now last the rest of the life of the vehicle. Better be safe than sorry.

Richard

Pete Ashby · #3 26-12-04, 13:13

I'm with Richard every time,

Replicate with a new PVC cotton braided loom with solder ring tags and rubber insulation boots on the tags.

There are a number of companies who specialise in this work here in the UK, I can give you a couple of addresses if there’s nothing that side of the pond, but I imagine that a hour on the web would net you a fair number.

Old wiring will lead to infuriating faulty ignition problems, shorts in your lighting circuits and at worst a serious fire, in short don't do it.

Pete

rob love · #4 26-12-04, 17:41

I have even seen NOS wiring harnesses that were never out of the box, where the rubber has broken down after this many years. If you have the harness out, then now is the time to replicate it. Nothing is more infuriating (and embarrasing if it happens in public or even worse, during a parade)than to have to start repairing a truck which has undergone "complete" restoration.

RHClarke · #5 26-12-04, 20:06

Chris,

I have the same challenge. Perhaps a "bulk" order might save us some $$. Phil Waterman has a contact in NE USA.

R

Jonnie · #6 26-12-04, 21:26

Yes, but Phil's contact needs a pattern to make them. And hopefully he can get the right bits to make them correctly. I know I will want to replace the harness in my F15 (assuming I ever go get it).

Jonathan Lewis

cmperry4 · #7 26-12-04, 23:45

Thanks for the consensus - I justed wanted to confirm there was no magic linseed oil, beeswax, glycerin, frankicense and myrrh compound that would rejuvenate old cloth wrappings and insulation. I just tend to obsess from time to time about trying to keep things original and authentic.
Just got the whole shebang pulled out this afternoon - too much damage and chafing and having-been-fiddled-with to contemplate re-use - but it is mostly intact, so I have an excellent pattern to follow.

Phil Waterman · #8 27-12-04, 00:01

I've got the pattern all made just need to figure how to get it up to the guy in Maine http://www.vintagewiringofmaine.com/ I'll drop him a line and see if he can help.

Also I've been trying to post this on my web site so that it can be printed out at 1 to 1 full size.

Just sent an e-mail to Vintage Wiring about doing CMP harness, will keep the group posted.

cmperry4 · #9 27-12-04, 06:34

That is most impressive Phil. I was taking photos of mine today laid out on the floor, but most of the rear end stuff was cut off, and parts of the panel and switch area are a bit mucked up. Looking forward to the larger version - please keep us updated on the Maine inquiries.

Tony Smith · #10 28-12-04, 00:58

... were mentioned in the thread wiring help .
I have found Vintage Wiring Harness (of Australia) very good and they have many vehicles already listed on their on-line catalog. They will custom make a harness, adding thing like turn signals or trailer connections on request.

cmperry4 · #11 28-12-04, 02:14

Thanks Tony - I'd had a look at the thread, checked some of the sites, but not the Vintage Wiring Harness in Oz. Looks like a good operation, and impressed to see he has "Blitz Mk II" - would that be Cab 13 CMP? Looks like it would run $275 Canadian dollars or so, no idea on the shipping. Hoping to find something closer to home - N. America at least. I'm a long way from needing it yet, but it's nice to know one could have a correct harness made up - something which would definitely be worth paying the premium to have a specialist do rather than try to bodge something.

John Ganton · #12 29-12-04, 23:18

I plan to add turn signals and I am seriously considering adding a fuse block. What sort of experiences have people had with a single overload relay - a sixty year old relay?

Phil Waterman · #13 30-12-04, 02:02

The Overload Protection used on CMPs varied but in general, they can not be called circuit breakers or fuses. They are a current regulator and they either work or they don’t. If you over load (short) the system the unit sit there and vibrate limiting the current flow to 25-30 amps hopefully low enough that a fire doesn’t start. The one on my HUP functions great. Before I put in the new wiring harness the old one shorted out and you could hear the limiter buz like a door buzzer. On the C60 the unit was fried and I replace it with a 30 amp automotive thermal circuit. It has only activated once when a wire came loose and shorted out behind the dash. Of course it was at night and the headlights went out.

Phil Waterman · #14 30-12-04, 02:16

When I made up new harnesses for both trucks, I incorporated turn signal wires right in the wire loom so that the harness looks original. Then used a vintage turn signal unit on the steering column to control lights.

One other consideration is what to do about reasonable sized tail lights. Lets face it the 1” diameter tail lights just don’t cut it in today’s traffic. On my C60 the solution was to mount two WWII reflectors like the ones used on Jeeps with the backs removed, concealed behind them are tail, brake, and turn signal bulbs. These are split off from the original small light so they also function. Looks good when parked and is practical on the road. On the front I used a pair of the round vintage hooded turn signals mounted in close to the brush bar.

One other little addition was that I connected the brake isolation switch in parallel with the normal brake connection with a flasher on the isolation switch in this way when the switch is flipped to the on power flows through the flasher and the brake lights flash. When you step on the brake the light is full on with no flash.